Mic Preamp needed for Tascam 388?

batterista

New member
So I picked up a 388, and the only way I can get any signal from a mic input is to run it through one of my M-Audio Audio Buddy preamps. Testing is with a few dynamic mics. Plug them straight into the 388, and I get nothing at all. Run it through the preamp and the signal's good. Is this normal?

Also, has anyone had issues w/ the Audio Buddy's phantom power? I can only get a faint static blip out of my Sterling Audio condensers when using the Audio Buddy, but they've worked brilliantly when I use them w/ a board that provides phantom power.

Thanks y'all!
 
Chain

Dynamic Mic Chain (pre-amp issue)
Shure Beta 52 > XLR input on 388 (tried all tracks). No signal at all received.

Shure Beta 52 > XLR input on Audio Buddy (phantom turned off). 1/4" out from Audio Buddy to 1/4" input on 388. The AudioBuddy doesn't have XLR outs. Getting a great signal.

Condenser Chain (phantom issue)
Sterling Audio ST33 -> XLR input of M Audio "AudioBuddy"
AudioBuddy 1/4" out to 1/4" input of 388, track 1 (tried all tracks). Phantom Power is turned on.

I've tried testing the same chain but going into my Alpha interface into my computer (Cubase). I hear a lot of hiss, I clap into the mic, and when I play it back I can hear an extremely faint signal where I clapped.

I'm thinking the AudioBuddy's phantom power sucks or is faulty, but I've got two of the same units and I've got the same problem w/ both.

All mics check out fine elsewhere... just issues w/ the 388 and w/ phantom for my condensers. Thanks for the help.
 
Does the 388 have an input select switch? If yes, what position is it in when a mic is plugged in the XLR jack?
 
I bet that's what it is...the 388 does indeed have an input select switch...

batterista, up by the TRIM knob you should see a latching switch labeled LINE. Make sure it is in the 'up' position if you want to source the MIC jack, and 'down' to source the LINE jack.
 
I bet that's what it is...the 388 does indeed have an input select switch...

batterista, up by the TRIM knob you should see a latching switch labeled LINE. Make sure it is in the 'up' position if you want to source the MIC jack, and 'down' to source the LINE jack.

As one of my early mentors often said,
"When in doubt, READ!."
 
Thanks. The line input toggle switch is definitely in the right position... "Mic" for when I'm going into the XLR w/ the mic. I switch to "Line" if I'm going in from the preamp to the 1/4" input.
 
Thanks. The line input toggle switch is definitely in the right position... "Mic" for when I'm going into the XLR w/ the mic. I switch to "Line" if I'm going in from the preamp to the 1/4" input.

Does this mean the problem is solved or not?
 
Please do not take this wrong, as you are probably doing the right thing, but......................

Do you have a manual for the 388?? It can be a bit confusing and the possiblility exists that you have a button pressed/ not pressed or some other minor control related malady that is interrupting yiour signal chain.

That is to say, operator error.

I bring this to the table as I have had this strike me in the past, and in fact once purchased a nice 388 dirt dirt cheap because "it didnt record", only to find it worked fine and the seller had no idea how to run it.

Ths PDF manual is available on line. Search this forum
 
@RRuskin. No, the problem isn't solved.

@technoplayer. I've recorded in many studios over the years (w/ others as engineers), but I'm definitely a noob w/ home recording...other than some BS stuff on a 4 track. No offense taken, and I'm truly hoping it's user error on my part.

I've got the original manual (I got the 388 from the original owner). I've gone step by step through the process according to the manual. I was thinking maybe dirty pots, but since the 388 picks up the dynamic mic just fine when I put it through the pre-amp, that doesn't seem to be the issue.
 
Self-correction...I see now that the input select function on a 388 is via toggle switch, not latching push-switch.

Okay. batterista...so you've got the dynamic mic plugged in to, let's say, the XLR MIC input for channel 1, and the input select switch is flipped to MIC. How high are you turning the TRIM knob?
 
Make sure the stereo faders are up to unity. And the record select button (red ones) are pushed in And the channel you are recording on has the pan knob turned to the right or left, Depending on the channel you are recording.
Left for odd and right for even channels.
 
Herm, if I'm understanding correctly, I think the thing is he's getting audio through the mixer when sourcing the LINE input but not the MIC input...
 
Fixed

Thanks all for the help. A friend figured it out... some issue with the internal preamp or something. I don't know, but it works now.

I'm getting a good amount of rookie mistakes out of the way. Bought 7" reels of 1/4" tape, but it's 3mil, 1400' rather than 1mil, 1800'. Damn. Looks like it records, but won't rewind that thick tape.

Getting there...slowly!
 
Thanks all for the help. A friend figured it out... some issue with the internal preamp or something. I don't know, but it works now.

I'm getting a good amount of rookie mistakes out of the way. Bought 7" reels of 1/4" tape, but it's 3mil, 1400' rather than 1mil, 1800'. Damn. Looks like it records, but won't rewind that thick tape.

Getting there...slowly!

don't use that tape. Buy a new reel.
 
Also, has anyone had issues w/ the Audio Buddy's phantom power? I can only get a faint static blip out of my Sterling Audio condensers when using the Audio Buddy, but they've worked brilliantly when I use them w/ a board that provides phantom power.

FYI, I remember reading somewhere that the Audio Buddy's phantom power isn't a full 48 volts. I don't understand why they'd do this, nor do I know what you'd use a low voltage phantom power for... perhaps some mics will work on lower voltage?? I assume they did it to save money and still appear to have full functionality. The DMP3 (the step up in the m-audio preamp line) gets surprisingly good user reviews, btw, and definitely puts out the full 48v needed for condensers.
 
@RRuskin yeah, I'm going to try to get some Ampex 292 or Quantegy 457 reels. I may get some used Scotch reels cheap on ebay to get started...testing, messing around, etc. The 3mil thick tape definitely strained the 388... wouldn't rewind, etc. Only tried it a couple times, so I think the 388 is unscathed.

@Tom_B It's crazy... I got two AudioBuddies from G-center, mostly because they each can run phantom to two condensers, but both of them didn't work (they work as a mic preamp though). The guys at G-center were blown away that they both didn't work...they tested them at the store as well. Returned them and picked up some Sterling Audio phantom boxes... they work fine.
 
batterista...why are you trying to pick up tape on the cheap?

You are risking getting bad/sticky tape and killing your transport. It is not worth it. Like RRuskin said, just get new RMGI LPR35 from your favorite tape retailer. US Recording Media is a good one.
 
@RRuskin yeah, I'm going to try to get some Ampex 292 or Quantegy 457 reels. I may get some used Scotch reels cheap on ebay to get started...testing, messing around, etc. The 3mil thick tape definitely strained the 388... wouldn't rewind, etc. Only tried it a couple times, so I think the 388 is unscathed.

1. Don't buy Ampex anything. It's going to suck.
2. Don't buy Quantegy, especially not on Ebay
(A) Most of those those vendors are unloading crap.
(B) Quantegy QC was terrible and only got worse as they
wound down towards liqudiation.
3. Buy newly manufactured tape. It's cheaper in the long run.
 
@RRuskin @sweetbeats Wow, thanks. I was totally unaware that there was a manufacturer currently making new reels. I'll get some new ones.

Should be posting clips here in a couple weeks. :)
 
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