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Thread: Another Akai MG1212.......

  1. #21
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    It's ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    It works! Cool.
    I got the idler tire in the mail today. Intalled and put in a tape......first off, about the tapes I have. The guy I got the machine from said he had a bunch of tapes. New and used. When I went to pick up the Akai, he only had one used one on hand. He just moved into his place and had boxes from floor to ceiling all over his basement. He said the rest of them are buried away and said he will contact me when he finds them.
    The tape he gave me has a song on it he recorded back in '97 with a female singer.
    The other tape I got used from ebay for $18. It also has music on it.

    So, back to the first press of play. I put in the ebay tape with great excitement. Put on the headphones. Pressed play. And 10 of the LED meters started to dance up and down. The tape transport is functioning real smoothly.
    I'm surprised. And I sounds real good. The fun part is I get to mix the song that's on there. It's kind of a soul, R&B type thing with some female vocals.This was recorded at the slower of the two speeds.

    The tape I got with the machine has a song with 10 tracks recorded with the faster speed. It sounds great. No real drums or bass though. Those were done with keys. And there is only one song on that tape. So I'm thinking the rest is virgin tape afterwords.
    Rewind and FFW aren't the quickest. I also noticed that the tape is still against the record/play head when rewinding. I can hear it slightly in the headphones. Not sure if that is supposed to be like that.

    So, I'm thinking the idler tire could be one of the main issues with the notorious transport problems on this machine. The one I have hasn't been used in ages as the guy told me. But with a new small capacitor, idler tire and a fix to a broken section to the cam, this unit is up and running. But I'm am gonna expect other issues in the future.
    I haven't tried recording yet. Will try some tests tomorrow. Fingers crossed.
    But for now, the rest is just cosmetic. Won't be able to do any calibration that's for sure.

    Im guessing these tapes can be easily erased with a bulk eraser.

    Here is a picture of the meters in action....

    img_20161215_195608-jpg

    As you can see the faders are down. I didn't have the switch selected to track.
    I'm really looking forward to recording a song on this sucker.
    Last edited by j.harv; 12-15-2016 at 20:14.
    We've got bush,We've got bush!!!

  2. #22
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    Okay. Another problem has popped up. I still haven't got to the eject button problem yet, but there is a problem with the eject function. I fixed the cam that moves the door up and down, but there is a problem that happens every now and then. When closing the door, it sometimes stalls and then quickly slams shut. This is another problem I have heard of while searching around.
    I found the problem, and there is also something mentioned about it in the service manual(thanks Sweetbeats for the link). Must be a common problem if the part being bent is mentioned in the manual.
    There is a part called the slide eject action part. Mine has become bent. I think its made out of aluminium. Maybe cast steel. Not sure. This is causing the door to slam shut sometimes. Now I gotta figure a way to straighten it without breaking it. It a vital component for the eject system and I can't risk snapping it.
    Here is a picture....what do you guys think? maybe some heat???

    img_20161215_230251-jpg

    img_20161215_224121-jpg
    We've got bush,We've got bush!!!

  3. #23
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    Excellent that you got it working with minimal effort.

    Most likely that metal part is cast pot metal.....maybe aluminum. Doesnt look like steel from the pics.

    Ive had luck with such parts in the past.

    Automotive related. Not audio. But anyway.... no need to get into details.

    My fix for straightening deformed cast parts has been to put it in a vise and slowly heat it up with a heatgun on high, as I'm slowly tightening the vice till its straight. Cooling it is rapidly in a bowl filled with water helps the process.

    Good luck and congrats on the progress so far.

    Edit: a good long term solution is to have one machined out of aircraft grade billet aluminum.

    Second edit: Almost forgot. Gibson bridges would collapse and bow like that because of years of string tension. I'd fix those the same way. But........it wouldnt be a permanent fix.
    But in all fairness they have a lot of downward stress from the string tension.
    Last edited by RFR; 12-15-2016 at 23:21.

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  5. #24
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    DAMN j.harv...I'm impressed. Nice work!!

    I second RFR's recommendations. It looks like cast aluminum. Getting it warm is a good security measure, and using a vice is good because it provides even pressure over a larger area, and it is easy to advance the pressure. Often the vice won't get a part like that totally straight again...like pressure *past* the centerpoint has to be gently applied so that the part comes to rest straightened out. You can still do this in the vice using some nails, one at the center point, and the other two placed one on each end on the opposite side. I can sketch a pic if that doesn't make sense.

    Anyway...wow!

    Regarding erasing the tapes, yes I agree a bulk eraser should do the job just fine.

    Regarding calibration, I'd like to reach out to Jay McKnight at MRL and see if they could make even a simple short 100Hz/1kHz, 10kHz test tape on 1/2" LPR35 (does that even come in 1/2"?) that could then be loaded in an empty cassette shell...would work at least to get the playback level calibrated. Won't help with frequency response sweeps...but that's what I'm thinking of doing in order to get one of mine calibrated.

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  7. #25
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    The good and the bad..........

    The good.
    I got the eject mechanism part mostly straight. With a vice and some heat as mentioned earlier. Thanks.
    I also added some aluminium putty to the part for added strength. The part is constantly under tension from a bigger sized spring. Here it is with the putty. It dries in to solid aluminum

    img_20161216_160609-jpg


    The bad....
    My repair job on the cam failed Back to the clicking door again.
    The little piece of jb weld broke off. There is probably a lot of pressure on that spot from the spring loaded arm. So now I gotta figure out what else I could use to fix it. I'm thinking epoxy putty might be stronger. Or I might be able to use the aluminium putty I have to build it up.
    Anyway, I got the part out, and now can show a picture of the broken spot. Look carefully. You'll see a break in the wall of the channel....That's where the arm guide is dropping in to.

    img_20161216_164819-jpg


    I think I could add the epoxy all the way to the outside wall of the channel behind the break so it won't snap off. Just fill up that whole section.
    We've got bush,We've got bush!!!

  8. #26
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    Do you know anyone with a 3d printer?

    On that piece broken off, you could get some plastic and heat and bend it to shape, file and sand the bottom to fit and glue it with CA with a catalyst. It would be a pain, but it 'could" be reconstructed.

  9. #27
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    Repair attempt #2

    img_20161216_182707-jpg
    We've got bush,We've got bush!!!

  10. #28
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    So it rides on that outside track??

    Looks a bit messy, but let's hope it works.

  11. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by RFR View Post
    So it rides on that outside track??

    Looks a bit messy, but let's hope it works.

    Yeah. It ain't pretty. And I'm not sure this ones gonna work either. I used plastic epoxy this time, and I just realised this is the kind that dries to a rubbery feel. Not hard and solid. I have a few tubes of different epoxys lying around. I think I used the wrong one. But I remember this stuff is easy to remove.
    Does anyone know what kind of plastic this cam would be made of? from what I have been reading on some of these epoxys is that they won't adhere to polyethylene or polypropylene plastics.

    I think I'm gonna go out and by some Tamiya epoxy putty from the hobby store tomorrow. I have used this stuff in the past with good results. I dries hard like solid plastic.
    We've got bush,We've got bush!!!

  12. #30
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    Could be wrong but i think it's a nylon based plastic. Durable with somewhat 'slippery' gualities.

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