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Thread: Another Akai MG1212.......

  1. #11
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    Awesome post, and awesome job! I'm impressed with your resourcefulness and initiative to dig into the problem with the eject function!

    Regarding your eject button and it's intermittent function: I haven't pulled mine apart at all, so I don't know whether or not this will apply, but if it is the type of button where when you push it it makes a metalized rubber pad come in contact with a carbon element pad, if it's that kind of thing often if you can separate the two you can clean both surfaces with iso alcohol and get it working better. Used to do this with old Atari 2600 joysticks.

    BTW I thought your explanation/description of the actuator cam problem and repair was very understandable.

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  3. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by sweetbeats View Post
    Awesome post, and awesome job! I'm impressed with your resourcefulness and initiative to dig into the problem with the eject function!

    Regarding your eject button and it's intermittent function: I haven't pulled mine apart at all, so I don't know whether or not this will apply, but if it is the type of button where when you push it it makes a metalized rubber pad come in contact with a carbon element pad, if it's that kind of thing often if you can separate the two you can clean both surfaces with iso alcohol and get it working better. Used to do this with old Atari 2600 joysticks.

    BTW I thought your explanation/description of the actuator cam problem and repair was very understandable.
    Thanks!
    Here is a picture of what the buttons look like under the panel. I think this one was probably getting slammed at some point. I still have to try and reflow the 4 solder joints on the underside.

    img_20161213_205656-jpg

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    Yes, that kind of grooved cog is the sort of thing you'd find controlling the eject mechanism in a VCR. Glad you managed to fix it!

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  6. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by j.harv View Post
    Thanks!
    Here is a picture of what the buttons look like under the panel. I think this one was probably getting slammed at some point. I still have to try and reflow the 4 solder joints on the underside.

    img_20161213_205656-jpg
    I'm interested to know if re-flowing the solder joints does the trick. If not I'm pretty sure those switches can be sourced new.

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    Awesome work, j.harv! Good luck in the final stretches.
    famous beagle

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  9. #16
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    I was thinking the grooved gear was like what I see controlling the arm on older auto and semi-auto vinyl turntables.

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    Quote Originally Posted by technoplayer View Post
    I was thinking the grooved gear was like what I see controlling the arm on older auto and semi-auto vinyl turntables.
    Yes. My old Dual turntable has a similar cam that makes everything move.

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    I just installed the new battery. I did it the way deslog mentioned earlier in the thread. I isolated it from the pcb and used a cable organizer to clip it close to the opening on the back. Just a precaution I guess. It would probably take forever for it to leak again.

    Just a question.....would the length of the leads I soldered to the battery affect it's power to the board in any way? I used about 5-6 inches of wire.

    Here it is....

    img_20161214_213450-jpg

  12. #19
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    I wouldn't think leads that short would have any effect on battery position.
    Al

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  14. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by j.harv View Post
    I just installed the new battery. I did it the way deslog mentioned earlier in the thread. I isolated it from the pcb and used a cable organizer to clip it close to the opening on the back. Just a precaution I guess. It would probably take forever for it to leak again.

    Just a question.....would the length of the leads I soldered to the battery affect it's power to the board in any way? I used about 5-6 inches of wire.

    Here it is....

    img_20161214_213450-jpg
    Only if the leads were teeny-tiny gauge wire. Even 24AWG wire should be more than adequate for much more than 5-6".

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