Sterling 5" studio monitor problems

I have 2 powered studio monitors and now only one works...I ran tests and narrowed it down to something electronic(not speaker or wires or connections)...The small tweeter or whatever the small cone is on the top of the monitor works(sounds tinny). But the woofer or large speaker doesn't have sound coming out of it...now I have a multimeter and would like to know where to start in tracking the problem down...I will add that this was a progressive thing..it would cutoff and on for months then now nothing at all...any help?
 
I have 2 powered studio monitors and now only one works...I ran tests and narrowed it down to something electronic(not speaker or wires or connections)...The small tweeter or whatever the small cone is on the top of the monitor works(sounds tinny). But the woofer or large speaker doesn't have sound coming out of it...now I have a multimeter and would like to know where to start in tracking the problem down...I will add that this was a progressive thing..it would cutoff and on for months then now nothing at all...any help?

I would look for a loose connection or bad connector. Possibly at the interface or possibly a wire inside.
Worst case you drove them too hard with too much power trying to be louder and blew out the coil for the cone.
 
I would look for a loose connection or bad connector. Possibly at the interface or possibly a wire inside.
Worst case you drove them too hard with too much power trying to be louder and blew out the coil for the cone.
No I tested all of those ..I'm sure it's somewhere electronic...I hooked a seperate external speaker to the output off the main speaker connection on the motherboard and nothing plays..
 
Do you have a schematic/service manual and some experience troubleshooting electronic gear? Without that you won't know where or how to make checks through the circuit of the amplifier. It would be next to impossible for anyone here as well to suggest where to probe with a meter without a schematic/service manual. Your best recourse is to contact Sterling and get a repair estimate (which unfortunately may be close to the original cost of the speaker). Perhaps they may have a refurbed one that can be had at a discount(?)

Where the tweeter seems to have some audio and the bass doesn't, it may be a problem with the bi-amp section that drives woofer.
 
Do you have a schematic/service manual and some experience troubleshooting electronic gear? Without that you won't know where or how to make checks through the circuit of the amplifier. It would be next to impossible for anyone here as well to suggest where to probe with a meter without a schematic/service manual. Your best recourse is to contact Sterling and get a repair estimate (which unfortunately may be close to the original cost of the speaker). Perhaps they may have a refurbed one that can be had at a discount(?)

Where the tweeter seems to have some audio and the bass doesn't, it may be a problem with the bi-amp section that drives woofer.

That's what makes sense, the part about the bi-amp...the speaker works because I tested it from a speaker wire from my FM Stereo...I have no schematic..I have checked the internet for one but no luck. And as you state it's probably cheaper to just buy another one ($89-99) rather than pay for repair...Unless I can find a friend or neighbor who dabbles in electronics...
 
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I had stated that the smaller speaker or cone works...

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I had stated that the smaller speaker or cone works...so it cannot be a fuse...

Dude just trying to help. Don't be so dismissive.
A blown fuse is the easiest thing to look for and fix. And 'what if' it's that easy. That's a good thing.

Just because one driver works doesn't rule out that possibility. Many powered monitors are Bi amped, as in there are seperate amps for the woofer and tweeter.
I'm not saying a fuse is your problem. I'm not looking inside your speaker, but it's worth checking.
 
I'll wait and see if someone else can tell me how to track the problem down...what does a bi-amp look like and how much do they cost?

You have to open up the speaker - there is a double amp on a circuit board inside - look for loose wires or a blackened component first.
 
You have to open up the speaker - there is a double amp on a circuit board inside - look for loose wires or a blackened component first.
I did that wiggled and tapped...still nothing...both speakers work(the one woofer I hooked up to an external fm radio to test it).But the amplifier or components that power the woofer don't work.
 
Dude just trying to help. Don't be so dismissive.
A blown fuse is the easiest thing to look for and fix. And 'what if' it's that easy. That's a good thing.

Just because one driver works doesn't rule out that possibility. Many powered monitors are Bi amped, as in there are seperate amps for the woofer and tweeter.
I'm not saying a fuse is your problem. I'm not looking inside your speaker, but it's worth checking.
As I had stated, it seemed to be a progressive thing...It would cut out and then come back on for days and then stop on it's own.To me that doesn't sound like a fuse.
 
As I had stated, it seemed to be a progressive thing...It would cut out and then come back on for days and then stop on it's own.To me that doesn't sound like a fuse.
Can you power up the speaker with the circuit board exposed? If so, using a plastic or otherwise non-metallic stick, gently push on various areas of the circuit board. If there is a 'cold solder' joint the pressure and flex of the circuit board may cause a component that has lost connection to come back momentarily. If this works you may be able to narrow down an area where you could try 'reflowing' the solder to restore a reliable solder joint.
Can you post a pic of the circuit board(s)?
 
Can you power up the speaker with the circuit board exposed? If so, using a plastic or otherwise non-metallic stick, gently push on various areas of the circuit board. If there is a 'cold solder' joint the pressure and flex of the circuit board may cause a component that has lost connection to come back momentarily. If this works you may be able to narrow down an area where you could try 'reflowing' the solder to restore a reliable solder joint.
Can you post a pic of the circuit board(s)?
I'll get right on that.
 
Can you power up the speaker with the circuit board exposed? If so, using a plastic or otherwise non-metallic stick, gently push on various areas of the circuit board. If there is a 'cold solder' joint the pressure and flex of the circuit board may cause a component that has lost connection to come back momentarily. If this works you may be able to narrow down an area where you could try 'reflowing' the solder to restore a reliable solder joint.
Can you post a pic of the circuit board(s)?
I just do what you said and nothing happened..as far as posting a pic it wouldn't show both sides of the circuit board...it's layered with another circuit board.
If this is anything, when I power off the unit the woofer does "pop".Also there's a safety shutdown function for when I overheats..it shuts off for 30 minutes, I was thinking maybe that malfunctioned and stuck somehow. I don't know where that is located so I could disconnect it or something.
 
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