broke gear during my move

liv_rong

liv_rong

Knows very little
I just moved as the title suggests. I saved every box for all of my recording gear luckily, so I figured everything would be safe.........but no. My uncle dropped my Sonic Maximizer 482, yes I know most do not like them. I use it for my acoustic chain, ovation-->samson c-valve-->sonic maximizer--> acoustasonic jr. This set up has been great for me, and I am pretty upset that its broken now. I had it in the box, with the foam and everything, I watched it fall and we joked about it being broken, I said not to worry I doubt its broken. This was two days ago.

I have everything hooked up again, and today after work I was testing everything. The maximizer will not power up. I tried a few plugs, and plugged other things into the same plugs and everything else works, so its not my power strip. So I took the unit apart to look to see if a solder broke, but everything looks fine.

Does anyone have any tips on what else I should look for?? Im guessing its just the power supply, but who knows. Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks you very much in advance.
 
Last edited:
First, check the fuse - it's conceivable the element inside broke during the drop. You can check the continuity visually and with a meter or continuity tester.

If everything inside looks OK visually (and you said it does, though there could be a hairline solder crack somewhere), then you need to get a meter and check the following (per the owner's manual):

POWER SUPPLY TEST:
1. With DVM set to DC volts, measure the positive end of C27. You should read less than +30vdc.
2. With DVM set to DC volts, measure the negative end of C29. You should read less than -30vdc.
3. With DVM set to DC volts, measure the voltage on JMP5. Reading should be +15vdc, (+/-0.5vdc).
4. With DVM set to DC volts, measure the voltage on JMP4. Reading should be -15vdc, (+/-0.5vdc).

The schematics are in the manual (which, if you don't have it, can be found at:
http://www.bbesound.com/pdfs/482_manual.pdf )
 
Yes, first thing to check is the fuse. If that doesn't fix it, either send it in for repair or buy a new one.
 
Given the typical cost of bench fees for repair (@$60 in these parts - applicable to the cost of the repair), it might be better to simply buy a new one if it needs to be repaired.
 
If you can't fix it, I'd be glad to look at it/repair if feasible for your cost of round-trip shipping (to California). From the schematic, the only glitch would be damage to their proprietary IC's, U1 and U2, which may be difficult to source.
 
crazydoc said:
If you can't fix it, I'd be glad to look at it/repair if feasible for your cost of round-trip shipping (to California). From the schematic, the only glitch would be damage to their proprietary IC's, U1 and U2, which may be difficult to source.
Click to expand...

Crazydoc appears to be a true gentleman, and I'm honoured to be involved with a forum that involves people like he.....well done.:)
Spit.
 
crazydoc said:
If you can't fix it, I'd be glad to look at it/repair if feasible for your cost of round-trip shipping (to California). From the schematic, the only glitch would be damage to their proprietary IC's, U1 and U2, which may be difficult to source.
Click to expand...

cool thanks a lot man. im going to open it up again and check out the fuse..I am horrible with electronics:( If it doesnt pan out it pm you.

thanks again:)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top