Alesis Quadraverb has freaked out!

Lt. Bob

Spread the Daf!
seems to still work but the display is gibberish making it impossible to choose presets or even reinitialize since you just have no idea what the screen means .... it'll be stuff like %#^&AEIbb%JKFFGJ! :)

Anyone run into this and is it resetable in some fashion or should I just run over it with my truck?
 
seems to still work but the display is gibberish making it impossible to choose presets or even reinitialize since you just have no idea what the screen means .... it'll be stuff like %#^&AEIbb%JKFFGJ! :)

Anyone run into this and is it resetable in some fashion or should I just run over it with my truck?
HOLD BYPASS AND PROGRAM THEN POWER ON.
I still have the Quadraverb Plus. Had the same issue just once... Check out the Site I found for factory setting recall on lot's of equipment...

http://www.candisc.com/ranger/presets.htm
 
I'll be surprised is the factory reset clears the display. EVERY piece of Alesis or ART rack mount fx I've ever had had this same problem. I dont know if it's a failure in a circuit or if it's just the display panel gone bad.

The problem is you can send ART gear to the new and rejuvenated ART center in New York and for $100 bucks they will completely revamp it for you, new knobs, new display, new jacks, etc....

No such luxury with Alesis. The "new and re-rejuvenated" Alesis company wont even touch authentic Alesis gear if its out of warranty. What kind of bogus crap is that?

Anyway, a good bet would be if you can find a used one for $25 or $50 bucks and just cannibalize the display panel. They just unsnap and snap back in, no soldering (if it's anything at all like the ART units.....I dont really know since my Quadraverb never went bad on me before I got rid of it - but the battery went dead, and Alesis battery replacements are a textbook exercise in poor design).

But if you search and dredge the bottom of the internet long enough, you CAN find authorized centers that will be more than happy to charge you $150-$250 bucks to "rejuvenate" your Quad......IF they can find the parts, and IF they tell you honestly about the work they did or didn't do. That's right, Alesis "authorized" some service centers, but then didn't supply them with any parts. You have to ship it in, then hope the dealer can get the parts from Alesis, then hope they actually do the work you are paying for, then hope it comes back in less than 90 days.

As for myself, I am absolutely through getting burned by Alesis.......nothing left in my rig with that name on it, and I'm darn glad.... Hope your case works out better.
 
MOFO PRO .... that's a great site now sitting in my favorites folder.
But, as soundchaser suggested, didn't do the deed.
So now I'll be buying a new piece of gear. pooh ............
 
MOFO PRO .... that's a great site now sitting in my favorites folder.
But, as soundchaser suggested, didn't do the deed.
So now I'll be buying a new piece of gear. pooh ............

Things to check:

1. Wall wart power supply voltage (if applicable). Digital electronics go apeshit if the supply voltage is low.
2. Power supply circuit inside the device. Make sure the output voltages are clean DC (check for excess ripple) and are at the right voltage.

Odds are good that you've torched a capacitor somewhere, and a few minutes of soldering and $0.25 worth of parts will fix it.

That said, if you decide to just replace it and toss it, let me know. I'd pay shipping to take it off your hands.
 
Things to check:

1. Wall wart power supply voltage (if applicable). Digital electronics go apeshit if the supply voltage is low.
2. Power supply circuit inside the device. Make sure the output voltages are clean DC (check for excess ripple) and are at the right voltage.

Odds are good that you've torched a capacitor somewhere, and a few minutes of soldering and $0.25 worth of parts will fix it.

That said, if you decide to just replace it and toss it, let me know. I'd pay shipping to take it off your hands.
Tearing it down is the next step and hopefully it'll be an easy fix, I just don't have mega time for doing a lot of tech work.
If i can't fix it .... it's yours.
 
IIRC... that uses whats called a smart display... it has a small sub processor on it that monitors all the stuff on the buss and pulls off what it wants... i suspect here what you've got is a couple of bad scan lines... so may only need to pop it open and reseat a cble or two.... YMMV
 
You know... it was years ago and I think I do stand corrected here... but the good news is... I think I was able to repair it by simple opening it up and re-seating the display after cleaning the edge contacts with cleaner... I don't remember it being a real big deal to fix... and it's not given a lick of trouble since then...

Good luck with it...
 
I've heard of that solution as well: hitting the contacts of the molex connector with Caig deoxit. Even if it doesn't have molex connectors, it would be worth cleaning the contacts to see if that makes a difference.

If not, I personally wouldn't spend a dime fixing it.
 
cool ... demented, MOFO and Sonic ..... I'm just home from a gig and wanted something to do before I wind down so that's gonna be my mission.
Let ya'll know how it goes.
 
Also replace the internal battery. Mine did the same thing, that fixed mine.
That's a possibility ..... kinda a weird little battery but I would think the rat shack should have 'em.
That's gonna be the next thing to try .... cleaning every contact in the thing didn't do anything at all.
 
hen you take the battery out, leave it sitting for a little while, like 60 seconds or so, just to let it completely discharge. Then put the new battery in and see if that helps.

The thing might have gotten scrambled somehow. My brother had a Midiverb 4 with the same problem, and it just never worked again.

Unfortunately, some gear is just not worth fixing. Better to try and find a working one on eBay if you really like the quadraverb.
 
hen you take the battery out, leave it sitting for a little while, like 60 seconds or so, just to let it completely discharge. Then put the new battery in and see if that helps.

The thing might have gotten scrambled somehow. My brother had a Midiverb 4 with the same problem, and it just never worked again.

Unfortunately, some gear is just not worth fixing. Better to try and find a working one on eBay if you really like the quadraverb.
nah ..... it's just something I have. If'n I can fix it without spending money I will, if I can't then I'll toss it.
Pretty much gonna try the battery and if that fixes it great! ... If it don't .... then I'll buy that Lexicon.
It's for recording mainly.
 
man Ive had one of those for years...i never use it because its so dang noisy...I wonder if you could mod it or something but its probably not worth it. I've seen them going for $50 used.
 
Alesis Quadraverb Battery

Does anyone know exactly what kind of internal battery the Alesis Quadraverb uses and where to find it? Brand name, item #, URLs, etc. would be very helpful. Please advise. Thanks.
 
Does anyone know exactly what kind of internal battery the Alesis Quadraverb uses and where to find it? Brand name, item #, URLs, etc. would be very helpful. Please advise. Thanks.

What battery is used may depend on the model. Your best bet is to crack the case and read the number on the battery.

If it's a solder-in battery, you can buy them, but you'd probably be better off replacing the battery with a battery holder for that type of battery so you can just buy stock batteries at Wal-Mart or whatever in the future. Newark is a good source for such things. Since these sorts of circuits use just a trickle of current, you should be able to replace it with any battery of the same voltage as long as you match the polarity correctly.

If you crack the case and read the markings on the battery (shoot a photo if neeed), we can provide better info on how to get a replacement.
 
Alesis Quadraverb Battery

Wish someone who's already had to do this could just tell me what the battery identifier is.

Anyways, whereabouts on the internal circuit board is the battery anyway? Will it be obvious once I open up the case?

I read somewhere that this is likely a solder-in battery, so my question is: Would a battery holder preclude the need to solder in a replacement battery. Will the holder require soldering in?

Also, will the factory or user presets be lost when I replace the battery?

Finally, does anyone know what the usable life of an internal battery such as this would be?

Thanks in advance for any and all responses.

T
 
Dag Folks ... just asking a few simple questions, that's all ... hoping that someone who's had to replace their QV battery would have exercised some due diligence and noted what kind/type battery it was and be able to offer some tips and advice.

A'right, I figured it out and have no problem sharing the info with EVERYONE: It's a 3.6v High Energy Lithium Battery. The Alesis Part # is 7-05-0001. The factory-installed battery is labeled thus: Tadiran High Energy Lithium Battery 3.6 Volts. It's obviously the solder-in kind, so a little surgery with a soldering iron will be necessary.

I will post details of my battery transplant efforts once successfully accomplished.

Thanks for all the help (and non-help).
 
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