Alesis Quadraverb has freaked out!

Any 3.6volt Lithium battery with solder leads would probably suffice as a replacement.

The Lithium battery in the Quadraverb should last approx 8-10 years.
 
With that Alesis part number, I was able to do some digging for the same part number. If my info is right, the OEM manufacturer is Tadiran, and the part number is TL-5101. It's a standard PC BIOS battery, 950mAh, 1/2AA, just with solder tabs welded on. You should be able to get a standard BIOS battery holder.

This holder should be close enough to physically the same dimensions.

http://www.newark.com/keystone/108/battery-holder/dp/50F4685

(Ignore the image---the picture is of a full AA or AAA clip.)

Then just pick up a 1/2AA 3.6V cell at Rat Shack (or order the exact same battery from Newark for a third the price).
 
Alesis Quadraverb Battery Replacement

I'm still at a loss as to how a battery holder integrates into the Quadraverb's battery infrastructure. Does it solder in like the original battery? What's the best way to clip out the incumbent battery? At the battery poles or or where the solder leads meet the circuit board? It's hard to tell how things will work from just looking at the battery holder online. I have never worked with a solder gun but I have arranged to borrow one and believe I have (or can quickly develop) the skills to accomplish the task. Any helpful responses would be appreciated.
 
I'm still at a loss as to how a battery holder integrates into the Quadraverb's battery infrastructure. Does it solder in like the original battery? What's the best way to clip out the incumbent battery? At the battery poles or or where the solder leads meet the circuit board? It's hard to tell how things will work from just looking at the battery holder online. I have never worked with a solder gun but I have arranged to borrow one and believe I have (or can quickly develop) the skills to accomplish the task. Any helpful responses would be appreciated.

Yeah. You solder a holder where the battery was, then use a standard battery instead.

Clip out the battery first to avoid overheating it (just use a pair of wire cutters), but after you have cut the battery away, you need to unsolder the leads correctly. Be sure to clip the metal leads as far away from the board as possible so that you have enough metal to grab with pliers when removing the remaining bits of metal. For that matter, with most spot-welded battery leads, you can usually peel the leads off the battery with a screwdriver and avoid cutting entirely.

To unsolder the leads, you flip the board over, put a piece of soldering braid/wick up against the solder joint, then heat the braid and the joint until the solder flows out onto the braid, then lift the braid away being careful not to lift any traces along with it. For a board with traces of unknown thickness, it is probably best to use the very tip of the braid and barely touch it to the blob of solder until the solder is gone, then pull the braid away while the iron is still touching the contact.
 
seems to still work but the display is gibberish making it impossible to choose presets or even reinitialize since you just have no idea what the screen means .... it'll be stuff like %#^&AEIbb%JKFFGJ! :)

This might help!

I had exactly the same problem. I tried the system / prog button reset but that did not work.

I removed the upper plate, then i removed a silver plate with 3 screws (cant miss it)
I removed the cable from the display on both sides (important! If you disconnect only the display side it wont work, dont ask me why). Then i placed the cable back after a few secs and like a miracle the display worked again! No strange signs anymore and works like new.

Foto-WAHG3BVF.jpg


The picture above shows wich cable to disconnect.

I really like to know if this is helpfull for others.
Gr, Richie
 
seems to still work but the display is gibberish making it impossible to choose presets or even reinitialize since you just have no idea what the screen means .... it'll be stuff like %#^&AEIbb%JKFFGJ! :)

This might help!

I had exactly the same problem. I tried the system / prog button reset but that did not work.

I removed the upper plate, then i removed a silver plate with 3 screws (cant miss it)
I removed the cable from the display on both sides (important! If you disconnect only the display side it wont work, dont ask me why). Then i placed the cable back after a few secs and like a miracle the display worked again! No strange signs anymore and works like new.

Foto-WAHG3BVF.jpg


The picture above shows wich cable to disconnect.

I really like to know if this is helpfull for others.
Gr, Richie
that's cool ..... I'm going out of town this week so it'll be a couple weeks before I can try it but I still have the unit ..... will try it when I get back and let you know!
 
Lt. did you change out the battery?





:cool:
yeah ...... did that and several other typical things ..... factory resets and such.
I forgot what all everyone suggested since it's been a while but none of it did the trick. I've been meaning to toss it but I haven't so I may as well try this suggestion too.
If you got any I'll try them also.
:)
 
Just give it away at the pay it forward forum and be done with it. You probably have replaced it by now with a much better unit.





:cool:
 
Well, I thought, "Lt. Bob's a nice fellow, maybe I can help him out," and went to look at a piece of gear that is beyond repair/value. Thinking, "I'll just give him the display..." Turns out, it's an ART Multi-Verb.

Oh, well. I tried.

As for the battery issue, this unit uses a wafer battery, easily removed, identified, and purchased. Unfortunately, changing the battery did nothing for this one. Batteries Plus replaced the battery- battery and labor- in my Ensoniq ESP-1 for less than Rat Shack wanted for just the battery.
 
yeah ...... did that and several other typical things ..... factory resets and such.
I forgot what all everyone suggested since it's been a while but none of it did the trick. I've been meaning to toss it but I haven't so I may as well try this suggestion too.
If you got any I'll try them also.
:)




Does your boat need an anchor?





:cool:
 
Reviving this thread because it just happened to me today. Corrupted patch names, noisy output. I have my patches backed up via MIDI somewhere. I got a replacement battery at CVS. The battery is soldered in, I pulled it out. I didn't solder the new battery in place. I pulled the tabs so they were vertical, placed the battery in between. I wrapped the battery and connectors in electrical tape. I clamped it down with alligator clips. Then I did a factory reset. Everything works fine again on the Quadraverb GT I have owned since the 90s.
 
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