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Thread: Disassembling FATAR keyboard to clean - Help!

  1. #21
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    Update

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    'Just finished replacing all my contacts, and everything went smoothly and when I powered back up, all the notes play properly.

    Couple of things to beware of. The rubber contacts need to be put on correctly, for if they are turned around, the notes will play at full loudness all the time.

    You must look very closely for the queue. It is a very tiny little rubber nib, that are on one side of the strip, and not on the other side. I have marked them in the photos, so you know what to look for.

    Make sure you make note on the old strips that you are taking off, which way they face.

    Also, there is a 3 note strip for the lowest 3 notes on the keyboard. I did not replace mine. I don't play those notes all that often. If you need to, purchase an extra 12-strip and modify it into the "3". Or, take your old 12-strip at the top end of your keyboard, and cut 3 notes off from that, since those, too, should not be played very often and may suit you fine.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1a-jpg   2c-jpg   3a-jpg  
    Last edited by Toddskins; 10-04-2008 at 21:53.

  2. #22
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    Hi all.

    Thanks for great instructions and pics.

    I have PC2x and it damaged during transportation.

    Couple of keys sounds "metallic" when i press them. Keys also "bounce" more than other keys when i release the keys. Otherwise keys works OK.

    Do you have any idea what is broken inside fatar keyboard, and any ideas how to fix it?

    Thanks in advance

  3. #23
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    you have one maybe two problems there... the bounce is because the keyweights are broken... the metalic sound could be you hitting the weights laying around inside or perhaps the keyrail is bent...
    37.8% of all statistics are made up on the spot...

    hey give a guy some room... people are trying to evolve here... for crying out loud...

  4. #24
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    Does anyone know where to buy replacement contact boards for a Kurzweil PC88? does anyone know if the replacement boards the midi-store sells are compatable? It says it's for the SL series but they look the same.


    HELP!!

  5. #25
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    replace the boards???? what did you do to them??? i own a pc88mx and have worked on like 50 of them and never needed to replace a board... and the sl boards should be the same but cant guarantee...
    37.8% of all statistics are made up on the spot...

    hey give a guy some room... people are trying to evolve here... for crying out loud...

  6. #26
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    At Sweetwater, you need to ask for the Keyboard parts desk, which is manned by Karen. Or, call directly to her extension at 1-800-222-4700 x.1417 You cannot order these parts from Sweetwater's website..
    Hi there, just wanted to say thanks so much for this info, I've had a nightmare trying to get it sorted out over here in the UK, apparently the UK supplier has been waiting for months for his back order and then he said it only comes as a complete unit with 2 PCBs anyway now, which sounds a bit over the top.

    Anyway, Caren was really helpful, she'd got some in stock and I have now ordered a complete set from her as the Midi store didn't have any in stock when I contacted them. I will now be able to write tunes that use G4 again!

  7. #27
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    So glad!

    Thanks for the news/update, Cliveloseby. It makes me glad to hear these stories and know that all the work is serving a good purpose!

  8. #28
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    Thumbs up Arrived

    . Well, they arrived this morning, so I am delighted, great service from Caron at Sweetwater and thanks to you, Toddskins, I reckon I can have a crack at it.

    Thanks again mate!

    Clive

  9. #29
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    Thumbs up Thank you, Toddskins...

    I have a Studiologic Weighted key MIDI controller that had lost sensitivity on one key (the E below middle C). As it turns out, I had been in a severe motorcycle wreck and my friend came and took all of my musical equipment to his storage building. This was GREAT, save for when it rained, the water would strangely run BACK UP on the underneath side (or inside the shop!!) all on my beloved SL-880 pro!! Before powering up after my long road to recovery, I done what any good concerned owner would do. I took the screws out and looked to make sure that no water was evident before powering on; I blew out and cleaned to the best of my ability, all while looking on the board for any tell-tell signs of corrosion. Well, all went well and I powered on. I then noticed my "full on" key no matter how hard I hit the thing. I was concerned about getting this remedied. It just so happens that my brother is an electronics technician and he ended up finding your info here. I noticed the similarity to the guts of my SL-880 immediately, so we proceeded to duplicate the procedure. All went well, and my MIDI controller is back to 100% thanks to your wonderful advice and detailed photos. Thanks so much Toddskins for your hard work.

  10. #30
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    You're welcome!

    Glad to hear you are doing better, physically, too!

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