ASAP! Is it OK to transport a Hammond organ on it's back?

I'll look....but I've seen other people talk about that, and guys who seem to know a hell of a lot more about Hammonds than I do, said that certain models (maybe it was the H series and some others, I think) didn't need to be locked down.

I'm not saying you're wrong, and that's why I will certainly check mine next time I open it, just saying what I've seen other people say, but there are ones that they say you have to lock down, which leads me to understand that there were different designs...?
Anyway, I moved mine when I got it, down one flight of stairs, 50 miles in a pick-up, and down another set of stairs and into my studio....and nothing moved, nothing was out of place, no wires broken...so it didn't seem to be an issue.
I would think the service manual would have some mention of it, if it was important....but not a word.....???


Not sure what you mean about "one switch, you're wasting your time".
The L-series that I have has no second "run" switch, it's an instant-on single power switch...and while it ain't no B3, it's a sweet little organ, and for the $250 I paid for it from the original owner who kept it mint since 1965....I certainly have no complaints about the organ.
 
No, it has a starter. I'm sure it's a tonewheel model. It's just that it doesn't have the percussion, or 'click', which is to me one of the main things that makes the Hammond sound so appealing.

Someone said that they thought at one time you could buy kits to add percussion, but I don't know if that's true.
 
BTW, just read an ancient post on the subject of Hammond terminology by Dafduc.

We still miss ya, Daf. If only you were here to teach me how to play the damn thing.
 
Still haven't decided for sure on which way to try to get it home. I can rent a small truck with ramps pretty cheap, but it's a hassle I don't need, and I'll be the only one moving it, which doesn't seem like a very good idea. I can get some organ movers to do it, but more money and I kinda hafta do it on their schedule. And of course it's supposed to storm here Thursday.
 
Miroslav you are right...I was wrong... I forgot that there were a few models The H,T and L 100's that had self starters. If it has a tone generator that requires oiling you will get "The sound" The bells n whistles of harmonics. percussion and reverb vary as well as amount of keys and "fold back" but generally any tone wheel organ is going to sound like a Hammond...but without a leslie ..personally I am not a big fan.

Also not sure but maybe on those self starter models they eliminated the bolt down / floating tone generator system...not sure....you'll know real quick if you pull the back and look under the tone generator assembly.
 
TAE said:
...but without a leslie ..personally I am not a big fan.
Click to expand...

Oh I won't disagree too much.....though I can put together some decent organ tracks just using the on-board dual vibrato switches and the chorus switch on my L-series.
The problem is that you get only so many flavors of vibrato with the three switches, and sometimes I can find a combination that works well with the song...other times not so much.
I would love to add a Leslie so I can get that speed rise and fall effect of the horn/rotors, and just the overal sound of a Leslie cab is so much more 3D compared to the on-board vibrato I have.

The L-series also has Percussion options...2nd or 3rd harmonics, soft/loud and slow/fast decay....though it's not identical to a B3 "click", it still sounds decent if/when you want that flavor.
 
c7sus said:
The oil cans in Morley pedals are sealed with essentially a paint can lid, at least the one on my Rotating Wah is.

Ever tried to buy that oil? It's more expensive than Leslie oil!

I've got some around here somewhere.

My RW has some pitting on the disk that does the echos, so it makes a clicking sound with every revolution.
Click to expand...



I know what you mean about the price, the last one I sold, was dried out; but the buyer was happy to get it even after I told him about the price of oil.
I made a pretty good profit on that version.;)
 
When things go dry, besides the grinding noise, the tone wheels won't get up to pitch..... There are two switches on the dash.... The first one is a spring loaded switch and should be held for quite a few seconds ; wait for the tone wheels to get up to speed before letting go of it....then throw the second switch to power up the amps.
 
I haven't read the entire thread, but during the 1960's and 1970's I was one of two Hammond service persons in Australia and I would definitely suggest that you do not put any tone wheel Hammond on its back.

It was a long time ago, so I can't recall exactly which models, but a number of the models had lock down bolts that our carriers always tightened before the organs were moved. This was especially so for the larger organs (B3, H, etc).

The tone wheels spin on a central shaft and are different in shape. When spinning they disrupt a magnetic field and this interuption results in the tone (ie frequency) that is produced by the wheel. Any dis-lodgement of a wheel's position can/could cause the wheel to produce an incorrect frequency, AND to correct the problem at that time was quite expensive and today I would suggest almost impossible.
 
A few years back, I was offered a deal on an A100, but had no way to move it. Dodged a bullet there, since it was pretty obvious that it needed a lot of work.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top