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Thread: New Bass Body

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by notCardio View Post
    FYI, you can buy body blanks from Carvin, as well as all kinds of places on the net. A little more expensive up front, but it's already the right size and you don't have to buy a ton more than you need.
    Where's the fun in that...?
    I had a quote to move my wood store recently and it's four figures.. I'm moving the tools and benches myself.

  2. #22
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    Made more progress today. As noted, I cu the final shape a few days ago. It came out okay, but had a couple of dings along the way. Today I routed the edge to give a bevel. I've done this before on the walnut bass and didn't really have problems, this time not as good, but salvageable.

    Around the horns, the router was unstable and I didn't expect that, so it rocked a bit and dug in some divets....

    bass28-jpg

    and here...

    bass33-jpg

    It hurts, but lots of sanding can fix that.

    To prevent a repeat, I clamped down some scrap material for stabilizers.

    bass29-jpg

    bass30-jpg

    The bottom side came out much better.... so lesson learned: Always do the backside first. If you make a mistake, it'll be unnoticeable.

    Like I said, Lots of sanding can fix any mistake. It came out alright.

    bass31-jpg

    Next decision: Do I cut an arm rest on the upper front where the picking hand comes down? If so, how? Belt Sander?

    After I do or don't do that, I'll cut out the pockets for the pick-ups and neck.

  3. #23
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    Making some progress. Got the neck pocket routed out. Not as accurate as I want, and a little sloppy on the sides, but it work okay. Here's a mock-up.

    bass36-jpg

    Also got the pickup cavities routed out. Turns out on a jazz bass, the neck and bridge pickups do not have the same dimensions. The bridge pickup is a little longer. Does anyone know why? Class? Class? That's right, because the strings are not actually parallel. They spread out as they go from nut to bridge... just a little. Took me a few minutes to catch that little detail. Yes, that's my sweat I'm putting into this thing.

    bass37-jpg

    Here is the active preamp I had in the burl walnut Bass. I won't use the mounting plate. As I mentioned earlier, I will mount the pots directly to the maple cap.

    bass35-jpg

    Here's a pic of the control cavity. It is not beautiful; don't judge me. Notice the holes drilled for the control knobs.

    bass38-jpg

    Next step is the control cavity cover plate. I will make that out of zebrawood. I have to make a template first. Oh joy. To do so, I want to copy the outline of the control cavity. I taped some paper over the cavity and used a pencil to mark the edges.

    bass39-jpg

    bass40-jpg

    bass34-jpg

    After that, I drew a template where part of it followed the curve of the bass. Traced the outline on to the zebrawood and cut it with the bandsaw.

    Here's a mock-up

    bass41-jpg

    Next up I have to make a template for the cover cavity. I want it to mount flush with the back of the bass, so I will route out only 1/4". I will make the template out 1/2" MDF.

    That'll happen in the next few days.

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    Looking good my man... Soon you'll be chasing work away from me....

    Had one of the few basses I've done in recent years back today for a fret dress and set up. Looking at yours and playing about on the bass I have here makes me want to do another one..

    Here she is...

    imag0932-jpg

    imag0936-jpg

  5. #25
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    Beautiful, Mutt. I like the carving around the perimeter. Not sure what to call it. And the multi lumber in the body. When I do my first neck, that's what I want to do.

    I'm still debating on the arm rest thing. You know, the little cutaway for the picking arm to come down. How have you done yours in the past? Bandsaw? or belt sander? or??

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    The arching or contouring as it is on that I did with gouges and thumb plans. I have done it with just about everything in the past from an angle grinder to a power chisel. I never use a sander as I like to cut wood rather than abrade it so even with the angle grinder I stop short and finish with thumb planes and scrapers... I did that one by hand because the customer was unsure how far he wanted it to go so I did it a few times increasing it each time.. The recurve is concave almost as if the top has been sliced off an archtop..

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    Here is the part I'm talking about. I think I can fillet this with the band saw and then clean it up. Do you have any experience with how it will look cutting through the maple to the alder underneath? I think it might be interesting with the grain.

    I have a piece I can practice on. If I do it right with that, then I'll do it on the guitar.

    bass42-jpg

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    I'd go with belt sander just because it would be easier to do it incrementally, and it just seems like it would be easier in general. But then, I always take the path of least commitment.
    "One thing led to another and, before we knew it, we were dead." --Michael O'Donoghue

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chili View Post
    Here is the part I'm talking about. I think I can fillet this with the band saw and then clean it up. Do you have any experience with how it will look cutting through the maple to the alder underneath? I think it might be interesting with the grain.

    I have a piece I can practice on. If I do it right with that, then I'll do it on the guitar.
    Be VERY careful cutting that on a bandsaw. Round edge work pieces can kick back and cause you and the work serious damage.

    How it will look would depend entirely on how good your glue line is. If it has aby voids then you will be cutting through them and will have unsightly joins and break out. How much do you trust yourself..

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