CAB for Music Man HD 130 head

jay Burd

Member
I have a Music Man HD 130 Head and I am looking to get a 212 cab for it. My budget is around $400... I believe these heads run at both 8ohm and 4ohm 130watts and 65watts . I do like the look of the vintage fender cabs but I am a bit lost with all of the models and configurations available out there.
 
Go check out Sour Mash Guitar Cabs...they're building me a 212 slant cab right now.
The whole thing with shipping is only $385....and I got it with a convertible back, plus more expensive grill cloth.
Not bad for that price.

Sour Mash Guitar Cabs
 
Yeah...it sure would be! :D

It's unloaded...but considering that I saw the same style of 212 at other place for $450-$550...$385 is pretty good.
The cab actually only cost $320 with the basic options. I added a convertible back and the more expensive Marshall Bluesbreaker grill cloth, which brought it to $340...and then $45 to ship.

AFA speakers...I'm not 100% sure yet, but it's going to be something different...an interesting combination...maybe.
I'm having this 212 slant built to match a new head I picked up a couple of weeks ago. It's a Carol Ann OD2r (you can read the spec here: Carol Ann OD2r). Mine has black Tolex with the B&W Marshal BB grill.
In a nutshell the "r" is designates it as a studio/recording amp...which just means that the signal path was extra noise-free, and it's not as loud as some of the other models, which are more aimed for live use...but it's still plenty loud.

Anyway...I don't want to talk about the amp in detail here as I've only played it a little bit, and I still want to spend some time getting familiar with it, and with the cab that's coming...but the builder suggests going with cleaner/neutral speakers, like the Celestion Lead 80 (or equivalent)...so I need a pair of 16 Ohm speakers to go in the new cab.

I have a Weber Chicago that I bought a long time ago, which is a clone of the Lead 80, and was recommend to me by the late Ted Weber when I was looking to replace a Celestion Lead 80 that had developed some coil rub in a Bogner Shiva I had at the time, but he also told me how to fix the coil rub. So I bought the speaker anyway, and then tried the coil rub fix, which worked 100%...so I still have the Chicago. :)
I also tried the amp with a WGS Invader that I have...and man, it sounds REALLY great with that speaker too, which probably breaks up a bit more than a Lead 80 type would.
SO...I'm thinking of trying the Weber Chicago and a WGS Invader in the new cab...one very clean speaker and one that has some crunch. Not sure how they will marry up or which to put on bottom and which on top...but that's what I'm going to start with and then go from there.
 
Those Lead 80s aint lying about not coloring the sound at all. Those are some stiff neutral speakers.

Anyway that sounds like a cool cab. I love those 2x12 slant cabs. To me, that's how you do a 2x12.

Sourmash makes good head cabs too. I've been eyballing their JMP box for years because I need one. My JMP 2204 is in a Plexi clone cab, which is fine, but it's not "right" for the head. It needs to be in a JMP style box, but $220 for unnecessary bit of visual fluff isn't something I'm wanting to do yet.

JMP style head cab
 
If you do go for it...the Sour Mash guys seem pretty cool and willing to build you whatever you want, how you want it.

It's two guys doing all the building. I spoke with "Bob" via email, and there were a couple of things I was looking at for the cab, which he said were different than how they normally build it, but he said whatever I need, they can adjust...like the top width they do at 10"...but I needed 10.25" to match the head. They do the colored "string" on the top/bottom of the cabs, I wanted no string there, just the Tolex, and sliver piping in the front....etc.

I looked at a few other sources, but Sour Mash ended up being the best place....now I just have to wait for the cab to show up, and then I can comment some more on the build quality. :)

On the speakers...yeah, since I already have the Chicago Lead 80 clone...I'm going to try it with the Invader...and I'll also try just the Chicago alone, to see how the amp sounds that way...and then decide if I want a combination, or get another Chicago...or get another Invader and go that way, 'cuz I really liked how the amp sounded with the Invader.
It breaks up, but the crunch stays "clean"...none of that hash and fizz shit you get with some amps/speakers when they crunch. Much of that is the amp, and I think that's why the recommend keeping the speaker clean, but the Invader certainly didn't hurt that sound quality.
 
I did the same with an Avatar 2x12 I had built a while back. They adjusted their "standard" build to fit my needs. They're good folk too.

Mine was $430 to my door with Vintage 30s.
 
Wow....
400 bucks for an unloaded 2/12 cab seems high to me, but I haven't really priced a cab.
Cabs are easy to build from scratch. That's the route I would probably go. A lot of modern cabs are OSB board. Hopefully 300+ buck would get you a plywood box, with a nice birch ply baffle, casters, steel corners, and a very nice tolex. ( you already mentioned it will have a top grade grill cloth)
Even my DIY cab, set up like that, would probably run $150 in materials.
There are some 4/12 Marshall cabs, that come loaded with cheap speakers and sound bad, that go used at guitar center for less than $200. I can't remember off hand which one it is. I just remember seeing them and thinking it would be an option to buy one for $175 and load it with some good speakers because it would be hard to build one very much cheaper than that
 
Wow....
400 bucks for an unloaded 2/12 cab seems high to me,

It isn't. Not for these cabs. These aren't some junk Crate chipboard cabs. There is a huge difference between budget cabs and handmade Birch cabs.

Those cheap Marshall cabs you mentioned are crap. They're undersized and do come with junk speakers. The standard 1960 cabs are Birch all around and way way better.
 
Wow....
400 bucks for an unloaded 2/12 cab seems high to me, but I haven't really priced a cab.

This is the basic cab...I don't think you can get someone to build this for less than $320 + shipping.
These are 100% all Birch cabs with 3 to 5 dado/hardwood dowel joints, depending on cab depth.

2061 CX 2x12 cab

Sure, you could BYO...but unless you're good at carpentry, plus applying Tolex, piping and the grill work..I think it's hard to beat this for less. Mojotone has similar for like $450-$500 unloaded.

British Style Guitar Amplifier 2x12 Slant Speaker Extension Cabinet - Mojotone.com

To buy a 212 slant ready-made name brand cab from an amp builder, w/speakers...you're probably looking at $600-$800.
 
This is the basic cab...I don't think you can get someone to build this for less than $320 + shipping.
These are 100% all Birch cabs with 3 to 5 dado/hardwood dowel joints, depending on cab depth.

2061 CX 2x12 cab

Sure, you could BYO...but unless you're good at carpentry, plus applying Tolex, piping and the grill work..I think it's hard to beat this for less. Mojotone has similar for like $450-$500 unloaded.

British Style Guitar Amplifier 2x12 Slant Speaker Extension Cabinet - Mojotone.com

To buy a 212 slant ready-made name brand cab from an amp builder, w/speakers...you're probably looking at $600-$800.

Yeah you're right. Like I said I hadn't really priced any cabs. I have a pretty good 4/12 cab from the 1970s. It's an Ampeg V (something on another). It's birch ply (I'm pretty sure but not positive). Really well made with dovetail joints. I need to load it with some good speakers. I had a vintage Marshall 4/12 slant bottom a while back but traded it for a 4 track cassette recorder.

I wish I had that to do over again.
lol
 
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I had a vintage Marshall 4/12 slant bottom a while back but traded it for a 4 track cassette recorder.

I wish I had that to do over again.
lol

Me too. :D
If you had said you traded it for a guitar or an amp or something...then it wouldn't be as painful.

I had a nice 412 from the mid-'70s...it was a Traynor cab (I can't for the life of me remember what it was loaded with).
Did a lot of gigs with that cab...but I sold it along with the Traynor 100W head a bunch of years ago.
Some days I wish I kept it...but then, I bought some sweet amps to replace that...so no regrets.
The cab was built like a tank though...broke my back lugging that thing around and the head in my younger days....neither ever failed me.
 
Me too. :D
If you had said you traded it for a guitar or an amp or something...then it wouldn't be as painful.

I had a nice 412 from the mid-'70s...it was a Traynor cab (I can't for the life of me remember what it was loaded with).
Did a lot of gigs with that cab...but I sold it along with the Traynor 100W head a bunch of years ago.
Some days I wish I kept it...but then, I bought some sweet amps to replace that...so no regrets.
The cab was built like a tank though...broke my back lugging that thing around and the head in my younger days....neither ever failed me.

well, I also got a Boss ME 10 multi effect pedal hoard for that 4/12 bottom. At the time it was actually a fair trade. The 4 track went for around $300 and the boss pedal board was around a $100.
You could get a used Marshall 4/12 bottom for $400 any day of the week back then. Mine was pretty road worn too...but sounded great still.
flash forward to now and you would be lucky to get 25 bucks for the 4 track and the boss pedal put together and the a Marshall bottom would still be worth more than $400.
lol
 
Yeah used Marshall bottom cabs usually start around the $350-400 mark. That's a plain 1960B with G12T-75s.

Vintage 30s, Greenbacks, H/K-100s, G12-65s, or ANYTHING vintage can double that price easily.
 
Yeah used Marshall bottom cabs usually start around the $350-400 mark. That's a plain 1960B with G12T-75s.

Vintage 30s, Greenbacks, H/K-100s, G12-65s, or ANYTHING vintage can double that price easily.
Yeah, my cab was old when I bought it....in 1979. I bought the 100 watt Marshall head and slant cab for $400. I gigged with the amp for over a decade and some folks broke into the bass players place where we had our equipment and stole all the heads and a keyboard. so I lost the head. It wasn't a great trade for me, in hindsight, but I didn't have the dough, at the time, to buy a 4 track. That bottom enabled me to start recording at home, which I Iove to do. and it paid for itself many many times over.....So, in the long run its all good.
 
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Those prices for cabinets are good.

I've done a bunch of cabinets for people and even a 1×12 was in the 3 to 4 range unloaded.
With quality hardware, dovetailed joints in 13 ply void free Baltic Birch plywood, bluesbreaker grill cloth, metal marshall style side handles (not plastic), etc, materials and labor costs add up quick. Not a lot of profit in it.

A company that exclusively builds cabs can get better pricing on materials, and has jigs all set up. Some have CNC.
Also because they specialize in cabs, they'll tend to have a higher turn out of product. While profit margins aren't high, it's made up for in sales volume.

Anytime someone complains about cab pricing, just remember, no one's getting rich off of them.
:D
 
With quality hardware, dovetailed joints in 13 ply void free Baltic Birch plywood, bluesbreaker grill cloth, metal marshall style side handles (not plastic), etc, materials and labor costs add up quick. Not a lot of profit in it.

TBH...I was thinking the same thing...they can't possibly be making hardly any profit on it. :)
 
Not really.

For stuff considerd high end, finger joint is standard. Dovetail is more work. Both are pretty toe to toe in strength.

Where the money is, is in shit. Particle board, butt joint, mass production with cheap overseas labor. Its amazing how much tolex hides shabby construction
Sad thing is the consumer doesn't know the difference a lot of the time.
And the cheap crap isn't all that cheap. This forces American made quality stuff to compete price wise.
 
My 212 slant from Sour Mash Cabs is on its way...FedEx shows I should get it on Wednesday. :)

I will post up my opinion on their cab build as soon as I check it out.
 
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