Annual Humidity post - SUPER IMPORTANT - READ THIS!!!!!!! (long, but worth it)

guys dont be ganging up on me...this is all relevant, this is a worthwhile thread...take it to prime time :mad:
 
Of course it was.. Like I said whatever you say.:rolleyes:



I rather thought you wanted to bring it on here. Just an impression I got.
bring it on? :laughings:

wake up mate...its a message board not a dance off :D


now stop derailing this thread an I'll leave it alone..Ive noticed some other misinformation anyway..Korea indeed :rolleyes:
 
bring it on? :laughings:

wake up mate...its a message board not a dance off :D

Have at it then.:rolleyes:

now stop derailing this thread an I'll leave it alone..Ive noticed some other misinformation anyway..Korea indeed :rolleyes:
But that was your sole purpose for posting in this thread. By your own admission you have no real knowledge of the guitar.

I don't really want you to leave it alone now that you have joined. You could be useful to inflate my ego.:laughings:
 
there is a maximum an ego can get too...cannae be much more than yours dude...its like the size o' Jupiter :D


(and I did a bit of break dancing whilst typing, so consider it "brought on" lol)
 
kc has already had a shot across the bows on that one as well.;)

Seriously though mate, go ahead and delete all these posts they are meaningless and detract from what is good content for most folks.

Ah I was just joshing you mate, I've recently picked up an electric with sperzels and it's clear they add nothing to tuning stability. Feel free to remove my posts as applicable.
 
Ah I was just joshing you mate,

I know mate.;)

I've recently picked up an electric with sperzels and it's clear they add nothing to tuning stability. Feel free to remove my posts as applicable.

Perfectly good tuners. They won't help you stay in tune than any other set of half decent tuners though.

I'm out off this thread for now until kc has some real OT observations to make. Me and him can carry this on elsewhere.;)
 
carry this on?


what on earth are you on about muttley...I just disagree that its an absolute or that your word is gospel...I dont have to divulge any more than I have


take it to "For Sale" :mad:
 
and yes they will help you stay more in tune...thats why these companies spend thousands on R&D!
 
Come up with some evidence for either of those last two posts you made and we'll discuss it to your hearts content. Until then I'll see you elsewhere on the board.

OK..:)
 
no...Ill be around here....let me see...what powders good for removing moisture...mmmmmm
 
Snake Oil or Science (Lifegard Sales Pitch)

I have a 45 year old Yamaha D-60 classical guitar. It has traveled with me from Death Valley to Kwajalein Atol. I've played in in Colorado and in Cancoon. It has lived in the Desert West of the US and in Germany. It has traveled by plane, boat, car, bicycle, and even my tank. It has survived prolonged exposure to <5% relative humidity as well as weeks above 80% Rh. The neck is true, the finish is flawless (except where I dropped a 3.5 inch antitank shell on it producing a divit on the front). It sounds better now than it did when I walked out of the store with it new.

I have never kept this guitar in a 'humidity controlled' case. Could it be that a cheap Yamaha guitar is better built than a Martin or a Seagul that seems to break when they get dry? The truth about wood and humidity is that the wood needs to be assembled properly so that the grain of the wood shrinks or expands evenly and appropriately. Any good woodworker (hopefully any competent luthier) understands wood grain and how to properly join wood. If a change in relative humidity causes your guitar to crack at a joint or to delaminate at the bindings you are dealing with poor craftsmanship and need to look at another manufacturer for your next guitar.

Of course, if you have a poorly designed and assembled guitar (regardless of what you paid for it), I guess you might need to keep a sponge in the case with it to keep it from going bad on you.
 
I have a 45 year old Yamaha D-60 classical guitar. It has traveled with me from Death Valley to Kwajalein Atol. I've played in in Colorado and in Cancoon. It has lived in the Desert West of the US and in Germany. It has traveled by plane, boat, car, bicycle, and even my tank. It has survived prolonged exposure to <5% relative humidity as well as weeks above 80% Rh. The neck is true, the finish is flawless (except where I dropped a 3.5 inch antitank shell on it producing a divit on the front). It sounds better now than it did when I walked out of the store with it new.

I have never kept this guitar in a 'humidity controlled' case. Could it be that a cheap Yamaha guitar is better built than a Martin or a Seagul that seems to break when they get dry? The truth about wood and humidity is that the wood needs to be assembled properly so that the grain of the wood shrinks or expands evenly and appropriately. Any good woodworker (hopefully any competent luthier) understands wood grain and how to properly join wood. If a change in relative humidity causes your guitar to crack at a joint or to delaminate at the bindings you are dealing with poor craftsmanship and need to look at another manufacturer for your next guitar.

Of course, if you have a poorly designed and assembled guitar (regardless of what you paid for it), I guess you might need to keep a sponge in the case with it to keep it from going bad on you.

So you are saying that the fact that many guitars react badly to changes in humidity is down to a lack of understanding of the way timber behaves under such changes? The fact that luthiers don't understand these changes? That all guitars that manifest problems as a result of humidity changes are a result of "poor craftsmanship? That all you need to do to avoid such problems is to but a Yamaha? That you can base your view point on the experiences of one guitar?

I'm not familiar with the Yamaha D-60, can you give me some specs. I'd like to base my future builds on them.
 
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