VS1824CD - Recording in 48K

gtrmaster

New member
Ok... I made what could be the ultimate heartbreaking mistake unless one of you know the magical fix.

I just finished mastering the next Top 40 Hit and went to burn it on a CDR and it say that my recording is not in 44.1 and will not let me proceed. So I'm freaking out now... Is there anyway to convert just my Master Tracks from 48K to 44.1K sampling rate?.... so that I can move it to CD?

If not, is there any other work around? I would be astounded to know that you could actually record a song at 48K and not be able to burn a CD, but it does say in the doc that a song must be in 44.1 in order to record on to CDR. If that's the case, what the hell good is 48K for in the first place?

Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Gary/gtrmaster
 
Ok... I made what could be the ultimate heartbreaking mistake unless one of you know the magical fix.

I just finished mastering the next Top 40 Hit and went to burn it on a CDR and it say that my recording is not in 44.1 and will not let me proceed. So I'm freaking out now... Is there anyway to convert just my Master Tracks from 48K to 44.1K sampling rate?.... so that I can move it to CD?

If not, is there any other work around? I would be astounded to know that you could actually record a song at 48K and not be able to burn a CD, but it does say in the doc that a song must be in 44.1 in order to record on to CDR. If that's the case, what the hell good is 48K for in the first place?

Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Gary/gtrmaster

Load your track in a DAW or editor and just save it as 44.1. Audacity is a free one. Wavepad is another.WavePad - Download Drag the file into wavepad, go to "save as" then pick .wav and 16/44.1
 
Question...

Load your track in a DAW or editor and just save it as 44.1. Audacity is a free one. Wavepad is another.WavePad - Download[/url] Drag the file into wavepad, go to "save as" then pick .wav and 16/44.1

What is DAW? And how do I move a track from a Roland 1824? There is no drag and drop on a Roland recording console
 
What is DAW? And how do I move a track from a Roland 1824? There is no drag and drop on a Roland recording console

DAW is Digital Audio Workstation, like Cubase.

In your case, I believe that the Roland can burn data CDs? Try that. Then open the CD in a computer, import the track to wavepad, and convert it to 16/44.1 .wav.
 
There is a difference between what sample rate and bit depth you can record at (pretty well anything) and what you render (or create a final file) as. CDs only accept 16/44.1.

A sample rate of 48 is used mainly to synch up with video.
 
David K.- the recording format in an 1824CD is proprietary, and it was never meant to export tracks or files to a computer. Look, Ma, no USB! It doesn't use WAV. files. I actually understand this thing, I recorded my first album on it. There are two solutions I know of, one that I have used, and the other I haven't, but other people have, and it worked for them. Solution #1- transfer the master tracks by S/PDIF (Sony Phillips digital interface) to the computer, using an RCA coaxial cable, in real time. That's the "digital out" RCA jack on the back of the 1824CD. Make sure the digital clocks are synched, with the Roland as the master clock. Then you can use the dither function of your audio software to turn it into 44.1kHz, and burn it to CD. Plan B- there is a program developed by the hardcore members of vsplanet.com to turn Roland's proprietary gobbledygook into WAV. files. To do that, you burn a "backup" disc, download the software, which is freeware, and the computer will turn Rolandspeak into WAV. files. Your computer will read the backup disc and store it as a WAV. file. The cool part about that is that you can download *all* of the tracks that way, and then mix and process them any way you want to in the computer. S/PDIF only does 2 tracks at a time. Here's the source:

Installing and using Boss / Roland's BR to WAV utility

Unfortunately, I recorded my album before that software became available. We had to get the tracks into Pro Tools for mixing, so I had to insert a 4 beat click track at the beginning of every song, copy it to all the tracks, download them, 2 at a time, by S/PDIF, and then manually synch them in Pro Tools by lining up the wave forms of the click tracks. Lord! I would have killed for the software I just linked you to. You're not out of the woods, yet, but I just left you a trail of breadcrumbs. My other tip- Join vsplanet.com, where the real rolandheads live, and ask your questions there. You are using an obsolete machine that does some things very well, and some things very badly. I can tell you how to defeat or bypass what it does badly, and how to use it for what it is good at. Feel free to PM me with other stuff that comes up. I may be able to help. Your obsolete machine is one of the Devils I know, and in spite of the fact that I now have a ProTools rig, I still use the 1824 for a bunch of stuff.
 
David K.- the recording format in an 1824CD is proprietary,

Aaah, I see. I have a Boss BR-800, which also uses the mt2 format. I use the wave converter a lot, works great. So it's basically the same thing: I take the card out of my Br-800 (or use usb) and stick it into the computer. The OP burns a data disc and sticks it into the computer. There's a newer version of the wave converter, 3.1 I think, on Roland's website. I don't know if the VS series works with out but I'm guessing it will.

Out of curiosity, why does it have a 48K setting? Seems kind of odd if one can't get the audio outta the box without a hassle.
 
I haven't got a clue what they expected anyone to do with 48K. Mostly, I bypass its A-D converter and its cruddy preamps, using coaxial input, and use it for a mixing board, FX box, hard drive, and CD burner. Anything I send it is already in 44.1.
 
That was helpful.... Next Question

Thanks Richard, that is very helpful. I have another question that I'll go ahead and ask here, even though it's on a slightly different topic. I even tried to just copy tracks to my CDR using F4 (CDR Backup). It prompts, Insert CDR Yes/No. When I insert the CDR and hit Yes, it just keeps repeating that message. It never recognizes the CDR in the drive and I just have to hit NO to abort the process. This is whether the tracks are in 44.1 or 48K. Now my CDRs are 40X for music. Is there an issue here? Do I need to be using some other type of CDR? Thanks in advance -- Gary


David K.- the recording format in an 1824CD is proprietary, and it was never meant to export tracks or files to a computer. Look, Ma, no USB! It doesn't use WAV. files. I actually understand this thing, I recorded my first album on it. There are two solutions I know of, one that I have used, and I haven't, but other people have, and it worked for them. Solution #1- transfer the master tracks by S/PDIF (Sony Phillips digital interface) to the computer, using an RCA coaxial cable, in real time. That's the "digital out" RCA jack on the back of the 1824CD. Make sure the digital clocks are synched, with the Roland as the master clock. Then you can use the dither function of your audio software to turn it into 44.1kHz, and burn it to CD. Plan B- there is a program developed by members of vsplanet.com to turn Roland's proprietary gobbledygook into WAV. files. To do that, you burn a "backup" disc, download the software, which is freeware, and the computer will turn Rolandspeak into WAV. files. Your computer will read the backup disc and store it as a WAV. file. The cool part about that is that you can download *all* of the tracks that way, and then mix and process them any way you want to in the computer. S/PDIF only does 2 tracks at a time. Here's the source: Installing and using Boss / Roland's BR to WAV utility

Unfortunately, I recorded my album before that software became available. We had to get the tracks into Pro Tools for mixing, so I had to insert a 4 beat click track at the beginning of every song, copy it to all the tracks, download them, 2 at a time, by S/PDIF, and then manually synch them in Pro Tools by lining up the wave forms of the click tracks. Lord! I would have killed for the software I just linked you to. You're not out of the woods, yet, but I just left you a trail of breadcrumbs. My other tip- Join vsplanet.com, where the real rolandheads live, and ask your questions there. You are using an obsolete machine that does some things very well, and some things very badly. I can tell you how to defeat or bypass what it does badly, and how to use it for what it is good at. Feel free to PM me with other stuff that comes up. I may be able to help. Your obsolete machine is one of the Devils I know, and in spite of the fact that I now have a ProTools rig, I still use the 1824 for a bunch of stuff.
 
Thanks Richard, that is very helpful. I have another question that I'll go ahead and ask here, even though it's on a slightly different topic. I even tried to just copy tracks to my CDR using F4 (CDR Backup). It prompts, Insert CDR Yes/No. When I insert the CDR and hit Yes, it just keeps repeating that message. It never recognizes the CDR in the drive and I just have to hit NO to abort the process. This is whether the tracks are in 44.1 or 48K. Now my CDRs are 40X for music. Is there an issue here? Do I need to be using some other type of CDR? Thanks in advance -- Gary

First, run a CD cleaner disc through the thing in CD play mode. Then, try a Taiyo Yuden CD, or a high quality mastering CD. The thing is very picky about media, and won't write to lots of cheap CD's. Try playing a commercial CD in it after you clean the lens, to make sure it can play some kind of CD. If none of that works, you have real trouble, because the CD-R drive will need to be replaced. The manual says you can use an external CD-R drive. Good luck with that, because it uses an obsolete SCSI connector, and if you can find an external CD-R drive that can talk to it, you're a better man than I am. So first, clean the lens, and verify that it can play a commercial CD. Then get some good quality mastering CD's, made in Japan, or anything by Taiyo Yuden. Just one more thing- When you insert a CD (any CD) into the drive, does the light on the front of the CD drive blink for a while, and then stop? This indicates that it is reading the CD. If you have no blinking light at all, most likely, the CD-R drive is kaput. Do all of that, and then tell me what happens, and we'll take it from there. Good luck. I'm there for you.
 
First, run a CD cleaner disc through the thing in CD play mode. Then, try a Taiyo Yuden CD, or a high quality mastering CD. The thing is very picky about media, and won't write to lots of cheap CD's. Try playing a commercial CD in it after you clean the lens, to make sure it can play some kind of CD. If none of that works, you have real trouble, because the CD-R drive will need to be replaced. The manual says you can use an external CD-R drive. Good luck with that, because it uses an obsolete SCSI connector, and if you can find an external CD-R drive that can talk to it, you're a better man than I am. So first, clean the lens, and verify that it can play a commercial CD. Then get some good quality mastering CD's, made in Japan, or anything by Taiyo Yuden. Just one more thing- When you insert a CD (any CD) into the drive, does the light on the front of the CD drive blink for a while, and then stop? This indicates that it is reading the CD. If you have no blinking light at all, most likely, the CD-R drive is kaput. Do all of that, and then tell me what happens, and we'll take it from there. Good luck. I'm there for you.

The ironic thing is that I've owned the thing for 10 years and never once burnt a CD. Never even used the player. So I don't know if it ever worked. But its never been used. I cant put a CD cleaner in it because it won't play. It wont accept an off-the-shelf music CD to play. Same message... Insert CDR Y/N. Pushing Y gives the same answer forcing me to hit N to abort. When I insert a CDR, the LED on the front of the player lights up as it seeks to recognize the CD. Can I try to clean the lense with alcohol and a Q-tip?

On the SPDIF, Roland to computer... I have a cable... but it's RCA on both ends... can you clarify what the PC end needs to be and what software I need in the PC? It sounds like I need some kind of custom cable.
 
First, run a CD cleaner disc through the thing in CD play mode. Then, try a Taiyo Yuden CD, or a high quality mastering CD. The thing is very picky about media, and won't write to lots of cheap CD's. Try playing a commercial CD in it after you clean the lens, to make sure it can play some kind of CD. If none of that works, you have real trouble, because the CD-R drive will need to be replaced. The manual says you can use an external CD-R drive. Good luck with that, because it uses an obsolete SCSI connector, and if you can find an external CD-R drive that can talk to it, you're a better man than I am. So first, clean the lens, and verify that it can play a commercial CD. Then get some good quality mastering CD's, made in Japan, or anything by Taiyo Yuden. Just one more thing- When you insert a CD (any CD) into the drive, does the light on the front of the CD drive blink for a while, and then stop? This indicates that it is reading the CD. If you have no blinking light at all, most likely, the CD-R drive is kaput. Do all of that, and then tell me what happens, and we'll take it from there. Good luck. I'm there for you.

The ironic thing is that I've owned the thing for 10 years and never once burnt a CD. Never even used the player. So I don't know if it ever worked. But its never been used. I cant put a CD cleaner in it because it won't play. It wont accept an off-the-shelf music CD to play. Same message... Insert CDR Y/N. Pushing Y gives the same answer forcing me to hit N to abort. When I insert a CDR, the LED on the front of the player lights up as it seeks to recognize the CD. Can I try to clean the lense with alcohol and a Q-tip?

On the SPDIF, Roland to computer... I have a cable... but it's RCA on both ends... can you clarify what the PC end needs to be and what software I need in the PC? It sounds like I need some kind of custom cable.
 
I can only tell you so much. There are 2 types of S/PDIF connections- coaxial S/PDIF, which uses an RCA to RCA cable (use one made for digital connections, as for a TV cable box), and optical S/PDIF, which uses a fiberoptic cable known as a Toslink cable. I use optical when possible, as it is more or less immune to interference from power cables and radio sources. As far as how to connect to a computer, that depends on your soundcard. You need to have a soundcard that has a S/PDIF digital input. Note that on the Roland, you can set the type of S/PDIF input in "system parameters" Digital 1 is coaxial, and Digital 2 is optical, and the Roland has both coaxial and optical inputs and outputs. Those are for "inputting" digital signals. "Int" (internal) is for when the Roland is the master digital clock. In this case, that is what you would use. So- the next step depends on your computer soundcard. Personally, I would check with Roland tech support and see about getting the CDR-drive replaced, which you may be able to do yourself. It's a standard CDR-drive. Then you'll be able to burn backup discs, import CD tracks to the Roland, and a bunch of other stuff. Good luck. This can be done. I downloaded an entire album, 2 tracks at a time, to a laptop that way.
 
Oh yeah- one thing more worth noting. There is another closely related digital format, which is called AES/EBU. It is the same format as S/PDIF, but uses 3-pin XLR connectors. I have no idea what happens if you run a S/PDIF coaxial out to an AES/EBU input using an RCA to XLR cable. Maybe nothing. One of the better informed digital geeks on the computer recording forum will probably know the answer. Anyway, there are some relatively inexpensive sound cards, by M-Audio and others, that will accept a S/PDIF input.
Here's a good example appropriate for your purposes:

M-Audio Audiophile 2496 | 8thstreet.com | Call 1-800-878-8882 | Most Orders Ship Free!
 
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