Surfing heavy waves.. ow they get away with it

Notice sharks are smart enough to stay the hell away :>)

We're about to head out to a Blues Honorarium gig. Drummer's feeling tentative' talking to me wife for support. I overheard the line (joke between musicians) 'Oh you'll be fine'.
I quote My Cousin Vinnie- 'Yeah, fine. ... If ya don't fuck up
 
;)
We get an easy day of it. Another guitar bud of our's bass playing wife gets this gig. Mine's an 'honorary, I'm along for the ride. 40 years in and around the same circles. I'm no blues guy though. Like melodies too much :>)
 
A lot of that footage is from a wave called Shipsterns Bluff in Tasmania. It's a very difficult wave. Look up "biggest Shipsterns "

The guys who surf that shit are super fit and strong in the water, they've usually got a rescue guy on a ski on hand too. The risk to them guys is relatively minimal considering what they're doing. If I paddled out somewhere like that I'd get my arse handed to me.

Some of them do die though or get serious beatings, look up Marc Foo or Keala Kennely.
 
ez_willis said:
I think minimal means something different here. :laughings:
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hence the qualifier "Relatively" minimal. They're minimising the risks as best they can.

A friend of mine is a big wave rider - mainly in the west of Ireland and Portugal - he broke his neck recently. He's gonna recover but its still fucking scary.
 
JDOD said:
hence the qualifier "Relatively" minimal. They're minimising the risks as best they can.

A friend of mine is a big wave rider - mainly in the west of Ireland and Portugal - he broke his neck recently. He's gonna recover but its still fucking scary.
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Visiting a friend on Oahu, I asked him where would be a good place to play in some some nice waves (6-8 feet LOL, I don't surf). He goes 'yeah Sandy point. That's where I broke my neck when I was 16.'
 
mixsit said:
Visiting a friend on Oahu, I asked him where would be a good place to play in some some nice waves (6-8 feet LOL, I don't surf). He goes 'yeah Sandy point. That's where I broke my neck when I was 16.'
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LOL - you don't play in 6 - 8ft Hawaii. You'll get fucking killed.
 
JDOD said:
hence the qualifier "Relatively" minimal. They're minimising the risks as best they can.

A friend of mine is a big wave rider - mainly in the west of Ireland and Portugal - he broke his neck recently. He's gonna recover but its still fucking scary.
Click to expand...
Well at least it was a relatively minimal injury.
 
mixsit said:
Visiting a friend on Oahu, I asked him where would be a good place to play in some some nice waves (6-8 feet LOL, I don't surf). He goes 'yeah Sandy point. That's where I broke my neck when I was 16.'
Click to expand...

That doesn't sound like a "friend" in the traditional sense. It sounds more like a guy that wants to see you break your neck.
 
LOL - you don't play in 6 - 8ft Hawaii. You'll get fucking killed.
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ez_willis said:
That doesn't sound like a "friend" in the traditional sense. It sounds more like a guy that wants to see you break your neck.
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Let me inject a little reality here. Me, I'm looking at curls' at their height. In this case (even more now that I'm old and 'sloppy) this is spending most of the time behind them, So, yeah this is as much as i dared to handle - a little more actually. I was definitely choosing quite cautiously when -and which to 'engage in. :) And it's a sand landing. Wouldn't be there if it wasn't.
You surfers refer to swell height. Trying to remember- bobbing up and down in swell- two, three feet(?
 
'Fess'n up here- After mulling this over- I hereby retract this '6 - 8 feet' crap.
I have no idea how 'big, what 'measure. I'll leave it with 'bigger than me, enough to kick my butt :rolleyes:
 
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