Desoldering properly

Schwarzenyaeger

Formerly "Dog-In-Door"
Hey guys,

I'm trying to desolder two capacitors from a circuit. I can't for the life me do it properly. I melt the solder and then, as fast as I can, move the desoldering pump over the spot and trigger the suction. There is still a thing layer left that I can't get rid of. Is there a way to get rid of that without a desoldering wick?
 
Put the tip of the pump right up to the solder while you heat it. The tips are heat resistant and replaceable on solder pumps I've used. You could also grab the component with needle nose pliers and pull a lead out while the iron is on the hole keeping the solder melted. You might have to go back and forth, pulling each lead out a little more each time.
 
I've know got all the parts soldered on and have to connect the input jacks.

I've been considering using a wooden box for this project. A friend said that I wouldn't need to ground a wooden box but he wouldn't use a wooden box for an electric project.

What are the exact implications of this? I just wouldn't connect the ground from the PCB to the wooden box?

I've got these two cable types:
imgur: the simple image sharer
imgur: the simple image sharer

These is the jack and XLR
imgur: the simple image sharer

What goes where?

And this is the box:
imgur: the simple image sharer
 
In the future, try a desoldering braid. It's a little better and safer for getting parts off a PCB. Solder suckers work better for wires/components.
 
Yeah, braid, wick, whatever. It's nice and quick and tidy for getting solder off of PCB traces without applying direct heat to the board and potentially lifting the trace. The suckers are great for getting blobs off of components, but the wick treats the board nicer.
 
That's pretty magic.

@Greg: I hope I didn't already f up the PCB. I spent a long time soldering around...



I'd also like to reference back further up the thread if anybody can give me a heads up on which wire goes where!
 
...the fuck is it? Got a schematic, layout, or instructions? Spose it doesn't matter...

Connecting a wire to the wooden box does no good to anybody, because it's not conductive. Wire the jacks like normal, just omit anything that looks like it wants to go to the chassis. Of course, that assumes that both jacks actually get their ground via wires from the board. Sometimes one or both of them depend on connection to a conductive chassis, but we don't know...

All that said, you probably will want the thing inside of a conductive (and grounded) shield of one sort or another, to keep the noise out. You could paint on some conductive paint, or what I would do is take some heavy duty aluminum foil and spray adhesive and cover the entire interior surface of the box. Then you will need that foil to contact ground somehow. Maybe the jack will do it, but you could run a wire to a screw in the side of the box (screw it down hard so it makes good contact, don't rely on the screw itself if you can help it) if necessary.

If you're asking what lug on the jacks are what, I'm not ready to help with that. Use your meter. Don't have a meter? Stop working on electronics projects til you get one!
 
It's a passive DI box!

It's got one hole in the PCB labeled "Chassis", which I assume is where the wire to the ground goes.
I'll look into that conductive paint.
 
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