Mixer Headphone Jack Re-location

spjoens

New member
Most of my Tascam mixers had the HP jack right up front where I like them. Since my last one just died I'm now using a Behringer UFX1204 which puts the HP jack all the way at the top where the cord strings across knobs and sliders and gets in the way of my hands. I'm always fighting it.

Though most modern mixers put them there it makes no sense to me and I'd like to relocate it or pig tail a new one to the front. The lower front panel is about 5/8" x 11" where this could be done. What's the best way to drill an 11/32" hole there?

ufx1204-front-side.jpg
 
What's the best way to drill an 11/32" hole there?
Drilling the hole is the EASY part.
Assuming you have a drill and a nice way to position the mixer, even on its face, then you have to go inside. Have you been inside? Have you found a spot where there's plenty of clearance? No circuit boards nearby? In a modern piece, real estate is usually a premium and vacant areas can be hard to come by.
If so, then the hole can be done several ways, but most probably, and i'm speaking generically here, by a step process.
Get a small bit. No more than 1/8". The reason being is that it's easy to see, easy to drill, and still closely control the location.
After marking your spot, drill through with that. If it's where you want it, then drill it out to 11/32". Done.
Just that easy? Hardly.
All that material that was once in the hole has to go somewhere. Metal people often call this "swarf". A little is stuck to the bit. Most is outside (or the side you drilled from). But SOME of it is on the inside. If the panel is plastic, it's probably not a big deal, but if the panel is metal, then those little metal bits can do many bad things. Also, if the plastic is conductive, it's a big deal. I'm sure you get the picture.
The answer is in prevention. No, there's no special way to work your drill to keep it from making a mess, the trick is to catch the mess as it happens.
One way is to have a vacuum cleaner running with the hose right there on the spot while you drill. This works very well, and it's served me many times successfully. It all sounds very industrial, too, with two motors going and all. Makes you sound like you know what you're doing.
Also, you can cover everything nearby and then cover that with something sticky, like upside down tape. That will nab those pesky chips, also. But then you have to lift it all out without spilling, which has vexed me once or twice. So run your vacuum on that, too.
First step, see if you CAN. See if your mixer will cooperate. Then drill baby drill ;-)
Dunno if any of that helps.


Ponder5
 
Thanks Ponder5. Yeah, I've got most of all that stuff down as I'm always tinkering and modding things. The mixer casing is all metal tho very thin metal, so I worry about the drill grabbing and chewing it up. I'll probably use a step drill bit for that. Also, the bottom half looks to come off in one piece so there wouldn't be any concern for getting metal dust in the unit. It's just an odd shape that won't be easy to use on the drill press.

The plastic side trim comes off and I can look inside, there's plenty of space to mount a jack up front. I just worry about needing the warranty as this is my 1st Behringer and am not 100% confident at this point.
 
Here's mock up of what I'd likely do, cable is out of the way, and it's non-destructive. Perhaps heavy duty Velcro to mount the jack. (excuse the scotch tape :) )
 

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Like the mock up.

Also like Steenamaroo's idea of the side panel...I suspect you're more likely to find a spot with the depth for a TRS socket there than down front where it's skinny.

...and, yeah, know what you mean about likely the headphone jack near the front. A lot of Soundcraft analogue mixers used to put it down there and it was much more convenient.
 
Actually, taking a second look, I bet you could get a socket on the side panel but on the front facing part. That'd be nice!
The pictured trailing lead does the job perfectly, though. That or run a cable to a patchbay or headphone amp off to the side, or something.
 
All great ideas, guys, & I may do something like one of those to prevent warranty voidation. Although... I do like a nice clean order to things. If you notice my other post about modding an RP255, modding something with a "factory" look isn't that hard and there's no messy wires hanging out where I'd most likely snag & rip something. :(

BTW, I won't do a patchbay or HP amp as I don't want to add any more equipment. In fact, I'm eliminating everything but the bare essentials.
 
You are better off taking a stereo plug out the back and routing it to a less extensive extension located between the mixer or some other place that is convenient. Once you start drilling holes in the mixer the warranty is done no matter what excuse you come up with. They look for any excuse to get out of it and the repair of these devices is pretty much a replacement as they were never made to be repaired. They are throw away type just like the Mackie product.

Also keep in mind that when you or the manufacture places a headphone jack up front they want to have a metal sub structure to support it as plastic will not hold. I do not being a service person, go along with mods of equipment because most of the people that come up with this idea are not qualified to do such work and make a mess or destroy the product. I have many example at my shop including the guy who changed capacitors on a PCB while lifting all the foils and then gluing the caps on with silicon glue. Of course the unit did not work and it was a mess to correct and costly I might add.
 
I don't know if you have room inside for the jack in front. The measurement from the front metal piece to the board is what needed. Also, another method of attaching a headphone jack would be to metal fab a bracket assembly for the front that would be attached by screws or rivets. The front measurements is what really needed to see if any of these mods can be done nicely.
 
I would go for the outside cable scenario but you can buy 20x20mm plastic pads that you stick on and these take a cable tie. Much neater and secure!

I would also eschew a line jack socket. Most are intermittent crap (the Neutrik locking skt is good but chunky and expensive) In any case, why not turn a necessity into a virtue? Wee ally' box with TWO 1/4" stereo jacks and an 1/8 incher to save using an adaptor. All wired in parallel. Could even have a pair of RCAs for an emergency "line" out?

Dave.
 
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