Control room plan, pls don laugh

[charoo]

Deaar Friends,

Kindly find enclosed my funny control room plan, i am just a newbie so bust be have lots' of problem with that, please make me techie like you.

luv
charoo

[Rochey]

Charoo,

Thats a great start man,

be careful of things like scale. Meaning, your main speakers look a bit small... Take a look at some of the speaker manufacturers websites. (Or talk to whoever is donating main speakers to you)

They will give you the dimentions of the speakers.

Besides that, it's a great start.

I was wondering... Your control room is shaped much like the bedroom designs that john has on his website - maybe you could copy some of that too.

Cheers

R

[charoo]

i dont know how but frankly speaking by going through lots' of studio design on Johns' site and other site, i made it like that, well for your note, i gonna use 1029A as nearfield and 1032A as a main monitoring system. Trying to sketch some more too.

luv
charoo

[Rochey]

All,

How would this be? I think that the sofa is a little big, but seeing as most sofa's are made in india, could you get a custom smaller one

I've converted charoo's room into meters, because i'm currently having an arguement with Microsoft Visio...

[Rochey]

http://www.shoeboxstudios.co.uk/design/charoo

This directory contains the Gif and the Visio file.

PLEASE take it and mess with it... this design was put together just to get everyone started.

Cheers

R

[charoo]

Wish i gonna sit in this room someday...... well its' cool. Rochey what next for me? give your direction. I am waiting.

luv
charoo

[Rochey]

Well,

Don't expect people to do the work for you man. This is just a starter for you, to get you some ideas.

All the guys here have had to learn about acoustics etc because they were designing their own studio's (or designing for others). I know you find the stuff at the SAE hard to understand, but I think you'd get a lot more respect from people if you asked people questions from there, than asking them to do the work for you.

I recommend you go and download a copy of smartdraw (www.smartdraw.com) - they have a trail version thats free. Spend a few hours with it, and see how things go.

Finally, I have one small question for you.

In such a small control room, do you need main monitoring speakers, or will good nearfields suffice?

Cheers

R

[charoo]

Well I am not that lazy and opportunist. I always wanna be a harworking guy no matters people admire my efforts or make fun by pointing my untechnicality or amature moreover ignorance of this stream. I dont wanna receive and ready stuff rather i want to workout my own, yaa i just need ur favor to powlish that and to point out the problems and weekness of layout.

Its' not that I am here for making fun, i have strong determination to fight and learn lot's of thing, unfortunately i dont have that brain like you but things gonna fine with me too as I heard if somebody doing a good or pure efforts noone make him back. In case of getting respect or not in India we have a culture that if you want to learn something you have to sit on the feets of your GURU-Teacher and learn, so i dont bother one make my fun or take me seriously as I am here to learn and I keep going learning stuff and nobdoy can stop me or gonna inerrupt me.

Rochey i am downloading the smart draw, it will take some time as speed is really slow of us but I will come again with something drawn by my mind.

luv
charoo

[Rochey]

Sure,

Well, how about we all throw some hints and ideas in for your design

If I'm wrong about any of these, i'm hoping someone will correct me - that way we will both learn!!


Roche's Hints for Studio Design - probably incorrect, but waiting for someone else to have better one's

1) Try to avoid parallel walls - they are bad, and can cause reflections.

2) if you angle each wall about 12 degree's away from center (take a look at many of Johns designs) then you can avoid parallel wall problem.

3) Remember that the floor and the ceiling are "walls" as well. *many* studio's have a ceiling with at an angle.

4) Try to balance out the decay/echo time accross all frequencies. Decay time is the time taken for a sound to die away (i think it's 60db's.. unsure.. RT60 and all that).

Some rooms sound really bassy and 'muddy' - this is normally because the low frequencies are taking a longer time to die away than the higher frequencies.

5) Balancing out decay time's can be done with absorbers. I'm sure I read somewhere at the SAE Website that a room should contain as much low end bass absorbers as possible. Maybe I was dreaming again...

6)You want to make the room, so that once the sound has passed your ears (as engineer) - that the sound won't come back This is usually done through absorbtion and diffraction on the back wall.




Let's see if anyone else can add some hints for you

Cheers

R

[Rochey]

You might want to try reading here too:

http://shoebox.tendolla.com/design/wwales/index.html

About a year ago, a friend of the family asked me to design a studio for him (I'm the only one he knows that knows anything at all about studio's and acoustics -- and i don't know that much!)

Anyway, What I wrote on that website was the stuff I thought about whilst designing the rooms.

It's nothing special, in fact, some of it is probably wrong, but maybe it could serve as a good start for you

Cheers

R

[charoo]

"You want to make the room, so that once the sound has passed your ears (as engineer) - that the sound won't come back This is usually done through absorbtion and diffraction on the back wall."

Well i read somewhere that it can reduce by angled wall too, is it?

"if you angle each wall about 12 degree's away from center (take a look at many of Johns designs) then you can avoid parallel wall problem. "

one wall at 12 degrees or both parallel walls at 6 degrees, am i right?

Angleing floor, I would it would be possible or not but for cieling by offseting 12 degree through some elivation or other, is it right?

luv
charoo

[Rochey]

Okay... This is all to be taken as "As far as I know" -- and if John or anyone else just as knowledgable know's - then please correct me, or tell me i'm wrong

>>>Well i read somewhere that it can reduce by angled wall too, is it?

If you just angle the back wall (compared to the front wall) - the sound will still reflect back to your ears. You need some way of keeping the sound behind you, in which case, absorbtion would be best.

>>> one wall at 12 degrees or both parallel walls at 6 degrees, am i right?

Hmmm, I've got to be honest with you Charoo, i've been thinking the same thing. I think you can do 6 degree's each - although we both need that to be confirmed!


As for the ceiling, you could make a "false" ceiling which had a 12 degree slope. Behind the ceiling you could put low frequency hangers. http://www.saecollege.de/reference_m...requencies.htm


\
You probably have more questions now than you had before... It's times like this we need some input from the guys that have already built studios!



Cheers

R

[LDQ]

Originally posted by charoo
i dont know how but frankly speaking by going through lots' of studio design on Johns' site and other site, i made it like that, well for your note, i gonna use 1029A as nearfield and 1032A as a main monitoring system. Trying to sketch some more too.

luv
charoo

Since you are going to use genelec speakers here is some good information I got from them 2 weeks ago.


"Here are the recommended maximum listening distances based on dispersion and acoustic output for stereo environments. For Multichannel multiply by 1.33

1029A...5 feet
1030A...6 feet
1031A...7 feet
1032A...8 feet

If you decide to soffit mount the products you will need to allow for heat dissipation. This means creating a couple of 2 inch holes (one at the bottom of the soffit and one at the top) to allow for free air passage."


Cheers,

Luis.

[charoo]

hey luis !

ton of thanx, i'll make my plans accrodingly now.

luv
charoo