Making your own cables...how easy/hard?

[CharleyBrown]

well, after reading through the many threads on cables...I have decided to go with mogami cables...my question is...how easy/hard is it to make these cables myself and solder the connectors on to them? What do I need to do to go about doing this. How much cheaper will it be for me?

[Track Rat]

It's easy as hell. I don't think it's any cheaper except in the case of building custome sizes and connectorized snakes but you can definately make better quality. That's my opinion and I'm stickin' to it. Alls you need is a decent 30 watt soldering iron/station, a soldering vice to hold your work while soldering, 60/40 rosen core solder, connectors and cable.

[sjjohnston]

What he said. Of all the things you might want to solder, cables are at the easy end of the scale (at least so long as you're not using 25-pin DSub connectors or something).

- You can hold the connector in place by plugging it into a jack, rather than using a vise or something.

- Make sure you slide the sleeve that goes around the connector up the cable before you solder the plug on.

[TexRoadkill]

Originally posted by sjjohnston
- You can hold the connector in place by plugging it into a jack, rather than using a vise or something.

Damn that's a good idea. I never thought of that. Of course you'd probably want to use a worthless piece of gear just in case the heat frys it. Hmmm, maybe there is use for Behringer mixers after all, 24 CH solder vices.

[rushfan33]

Damn that's a good idea. I never thought of that. Of course you'd probably want to use a worthless piece of gear just in case the heat frys it. Hmmm, maybe there is use for Behringer mixers after all, 24 CH solder vices.

THAT......is hularious!!

RF

[knightfly]

I've used a jack (or plug, depending) fastened into an electronics vise for years - when doing a few dozen or a few hundred cable ends, it's so much faster to just plug the connector into the vise-mounted jack, not to mention the minimising of repetitive stress from tightening and loosening the vise 100 times.

I would recommend sn63 solder though, it's eutectic because of the 63% tin so it flows better and gives better consistency of connection quality.

When you're just ready to solder, first wipe the tip of the iron on a damp sponge to clean it, then touch just a small dab of solder to the iron. When you touch the connection with the iron, make sure that dab of solder contacts the metal part. It will transfer heat much quicker due to the solder "wrapping around" the connection, so you can get the connection hotter, quicker. This will melt the solder you are holding against the connection OPPOSITE where the iron is touching more quickly, so you can remove the heat sooner, causing less deforming of connector insulators and less melting of wire insulation.

You want to hold the tip on the connection until the CONNECTION is melting the solder, that way you know it won't be a cold solder joint. Once the solder flows into the connection, hold the tip on it for another second, then remove the heat and DON'T TOUCH THE CONNECTION OR WIRES OR ANYTHING for at least 6-7 seconds. That will ensure that you don't move the connection until the solder is cool enough not to fracture.

Congrats Tex, you finally found a good use for Behringer stuff that didn't require a Hazmat permit - now that you're a qualified recycler, if you can just help me figure out a good use for dog shit, broken shoe laces, used band-aids, AOL subscription CD's, and hemmorhoids... :=) Steve

[Track Rat]

Originally posted by knightfly

Congrats Tex, you finally found a good use for Behringer stuff that didn't require a Hazmat permit - now that you're a qualified recycler, if you can just help me figure out a good use for dog shit, broken shoe laces, used band-aids, AOL subscription CD's, and hemmorhoids... :=) Steve

Just take all that stuff and build your self a Behringer mixer.

[knightfly]

Damn, I'm losing it - it was so freakin' OBVIOUS... steve