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#1
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ATTN: Builders/Designers/Anyone - Studio Desk
Hey guys and gals, I am now on to (in my opinion) the toughest part of my studio build: the desk.
I have money set aside to buy all the materials I could need, but the thing I lack is a well planned desk to build. I have done plenty of looking online, and the cheepest desk I could find, that would fit my mixer and have the rackmount space I need, would cost me $1190.00. I don't have that kind of money. ![]() Here is what I am trying to accomplish - a desk that will house the following: - MX9000 Eurodesk - (2) Active Ref Monitors - rack mounts built into the surface of the table and under the ref monitor shelf - rack mounts on left and right (floor to table height - used as support for the table) - Keyboard - 24" LCD Screen - Mouse And one leather wrapped arm rest from one end of the desk to the other. I have done some drawings, but after working through them, my ideas don't really end up looking well. I will pay the person with the best layout (including cutting dementions) if they are so inclined. TL;DR - Will pay someone (if necessary) to design studio desk. |
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#2
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Here is the $1190.00 desk minus the finish. It is what I imagine mine to resemble when complete. I would just like to have a bit more room from the front edge of the desk to where the mixer begins, because I would like to center the keyboard on the desk if I can. If not that is fine too.
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#3
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If you have the ability to make a nice looking desk, it would also seem you could just use items like that picture for your designs. Come up with some designs you like or even copy something that already exists.
I built something for myself very similar, but instead I put a sliding shelf underneath for the keyboard and didn't clutter up the mixer fadar area. you gotta excuse the mess...I was taking a break reading forums...but back to tracking! |
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#4
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I know these pics don't show dimensions and stuff too well, but hopefully you get the idea. Here's another angle. Cost about $100 to make in wood, stain, varnish, etc. I made it "mahogany" colored to match the rest of my furniture in the room. I think the lighter colors if done with GOOD finish work would look great...or even in black.
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#5
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Wow, that desk looks awesome! Well done indeed! I can draw all day long, but when it comes to measurements, I am lacking. If I could build the desk in the pic I supplied, I would do it in a heartbeat, but without plans I am stuck in a crawl.
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#6
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You can do anything you want to if you put your mind into it...
cut some "template" pieces out of cardboard first, if that helps. Realize they won't have the crisp edges a cut piece of wood might have, but make a cardboard mock-up first. Any good building friends (that needs some recording time)?? Really, it isn't too tough. The tough part is the finish work, and with trim pieces and taking your time, you can cover all seams, corners, edges etc, and make it look great. Buy molding pieces at your fav. lumber yard and you just cut them to length. Maybe some 45 degree cuts here and there, but you can "fine tune" the cuts with sandpaper. I agree the desk in YOUR pic looks REALLY nice, and that was my goal too. I think I fell a little short, but mainly just to me judging by your reaction and others who walk into the room. Has the "bling" factor for sure. |
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#7
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Quote:
Here is some UNFINISHED Sketchup views(which do NOT show the undercarriage racks and computer iso boxes, and some pics of various stages of construction.Here is some Sketchup jpgs. http://httpics.com//is.php?i=276&img=friends.jpg[/IMG] ![]() ![]() Here is one of two under wristpad Headphone output and HiZ input modules. One at each end of console. ![]() Here is one Leg support/cable chase bracket. Note the legs do not need "feet" as they are fastened to these to support the whole console. ![]() Here is the "snakes" being inserted prior to mounting the legs. ![]() Here is one leg fastened to the brackets prior to fastening the frame above. ![]() Here is the "mainframe" mounted to the legs.(the frame is supported by 1/4" steel angle iron brackets welded to the legs.) ![]() Here is the "bridge frame" support/alignment adjustments and "interlock" being installed. ![]() Here is the wristpad profile template. I used this to align various other components. Here is the "linear motion "track/wristpad adjustment stage. The linear motion track is for a movable tray that holds computer keyboard/mouse..remotes, and anything else I want in front of me for the moment. These now have custom LED lighting and various other attatchments. ![]() Here is an old "bridge"/lens installation pic. The bridge has since been modified for a Tascam M3700 install. ![]() Here you can see the computer iso/rackmount case install. ![]() Here is the computer/fan plenum install. Although there is much more to it now. ![]() Here is an equipment/pad post installation pic. Here is the linear motion bracket gap adjustment pic. Here is one of two console end rackmount module installation. Here is the endcap pad interface detail. http://httpics.com//is.php?i=316&img=studio6.JPG Here are some various little details that have since been modified for LED's There are also many other lighting modules not shown here. Like under the belly pod, interior "hood lights", laser level lights, and other things. I'll post pics of those as soon as possible. These are aluminum extrusions from a company called Stylmark. I build LOTs of different things from these extrusions.Here it is a year ago. I don't have current pics yet ![]() Like I said. There is lots more to show, and this is not a console for the faint of heart or skillless. ![]()
__________________
alright breaks over, back on your heads! |
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#8
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Honestly, in your pic, I see 4 "side" pieces that are just held together with regular rectangular shapes. Use brackets to hold things together if needed. What makes you pic look nice is the light wood contrast to the dark black and vinyl padding. Also, the side pieces DO have a nice shape to them. But just create one and use it for th template for the others. But look closely at the edges. You can see the "plywood" effect on those side pieces. But to the casual eye, you'll never really notice that.
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#9
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and don't forget to buy some rack rails, or just use wooden "cleats" and wood screws for you rack equipment.
Rick, that looks great. Must live on a fault line making that puppy with such a nice looking alum. chassis. What are the Christmas lights for? [recessed] bling? |
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#10
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Quote:
Quote:
I only built it this way to prevent SAG. The console is 104" long and only supported by the two legs. I built TWO different consoles from wood prior to this, and they both sagged from the weight of the equipment. I didn't want any cabinets or other supports in between the legs. Hence welded steel. Quote:
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__________________
alright breaks over, back on your heads! |
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#11
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Well... Wow. That desk is simply beautiful Rick. I am sitting here at work thinking, "I should be working." but also thinking, "If I knew anything about anything I would build that desk!"
![]() There is a retired vet that lives nextdoor to me who went into welding after he got out of the service, and he has been doing it for about 20 years now. He did tell me if I ever needed any welding done he would do it for me... I don't know if he would be willing to do something like this (as it seems like this would take someone a few solid days of work to get it ready), but it never hurts to ask. ![]() On the other side of things, I have a wife, and a budget. Neither of them get along anymore, so I am being asked by the wife to "cut my costs" on the desk by half. I was looking to spend like $400 on all the supplies, but she isn't happy with how much I spent on the drum room build. ![]() With a wood desk I could at least rely on myself to do the work from start to finish. And to you mixmkr - Thanks for the continued insight into the build. It would be alot eassier to build a template out of cardboard first, and get all the wood cut from fewer sheets of wood. I am going to do what I can, and maybe redesign the desk a bit (based on the amazing pics from Rick), I would like to have the ability to disassemble the desk without too much work, for when the wife and I decide to move into a bigger house. I dont know how much money to offer, so I will just discuss it with the individual when the decision is made. I will say however if anyone is expecting to make more than $30 for plans, I am sorry to say that is more than an 1/8 of my budget. ![]() |
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#12
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Quote:
Nick, You might snoop around Argosy's website. They more or less give away plans to build their workstations for free - just click on the options for "more info" or "dimensions" on any of the product-specific pages. Here's one very similar to what you described: http://www.argosyconsole.com/dimensi...onsolesdim.pdf |
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#13
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Quote:
thanks David. If you notice you'll happen to see a USB cable hanging over the door for things I hot/swap out. Wadda suppose is in there??? ![]() |
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#14
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I'd like to take the oppurtunity to point out that an enclosure on a pedestal with a door on the front and foam, etc *read* MAY cause heat issues with your PC. I suggest you use this tactic wisely.
An alternative to the door (which is the way I went) was actually monitoring the db level on the fans chosen for my PC case and lining every bare inch of metal inside my pc with "sound dampening matting" from frozen CPU. I've got a 120mm and 2 40mm as well as the CPU fan inside. The case sits at the bottom of my rack to the left of my desk and I have to look at the front to see if the light is flashing to even tell if it's on.
__________________
Kevin - The Small Business Workshop My Generic Crap The Murphy Cabinet Company Custom Hardwood Amplifier & Speaker Cabinets |
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#15
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very good point about the door trapping heat. Infact the back of my "pedistal" is open for that reason. I also have the power supply for my mixer in there, and it's a noisy beast too. I leave the door open almost all the time, unless I am listening at very quiet levels.
Infact I've turned off all the HVAC vents into the room, because all the equipment does a fine job of keeping it warm ...even during the winter in the 20 degrees. |
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