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#1
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Having Trouble with my Tube Amp...
I have a Peavey Valveking 100w head, and I've been using it and everything has been fine, then I tried to turn it on today and the red light came on in the front when I flipped the power switch, but the tubes are not lighting up. I took the amp off of standby and no sound. I don't think it would be the tubes because I thought that they glowed bright red or blue if they were no good, and I'm just getting no lights whatever. Perhaps a VERY VERY dim light, dim enough to where it's barely noticeable.
I'm thinking it's not receiving all the power or something like that. Does anybody have an idea what might be wrong with it? or how to check to see what is wrong with it? Because I called a local authorized Peavey dealer and they want 52 bucks just to look at the damn thing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
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#2
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Pull the fuses and make sure none are blown. Same thing happened to my Randall tube amp once and all it was, was a fuse.
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#3
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ok i'm not too start with this stuff, what does the fuse look like so i know what to pull out? and how do i know if it's blown?
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#4
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Below are pics of a fuse holder that might be on the back or on the chassis of the amp, sometimes near where the power cord is. The cap unscrews from the holder to access the fuse. Your amp may have it's fuse(s) located under the chassis which is more difficult to get to. The fuse has a wire inside from end to end. If the current in the circuit its protecting goes too high the wire burns out which opens the circuit to protect the power supply and other components. If you look through the glass of the fuse the wire may be gone and it may even look burned slightly on the glass inside.
Under the chassis are some capacitors that store high voltage. If you don't know what you're doing, don't go poking around under there - it could potentially kill you or really hurt like hell. And a pic of a typical glass fuse used in the holder below. The tube filaments may not glow real bright, but in a darkened room you may be able to see them and if left on for a while should feel warm to the touch. Found the manual and downloaded it..... Fuse appears to be on back of amp next to power cord, marked F5A ( 5 amp fuse). Cap should come off with a screw driver. Try powering up the amp if you get the fuse out. If the pilot light doesn't come on with the fuse out, the fuse is probably good and it's something else wrong such as another fuse that may not be easy to get at or something more serious. If you do replace the fuse, get one that replaces it exactly. There different types meant for different types of protection. In your manual is stated the Peavey warranty which for a minimum looks like 2 years if you bought it new. Last edited by arcaxis; 03-31-2008 at 15:50.. Reason: Got the manual |
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#5
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i unscrewed the fuse from the back of the amp, then tried to turn it on and the red light did not come on, what should i do now? is it possible there are other fuses that could have blown?
the fuse is not clear though, its not dark, its just completely white and i cant see through, could this also mean it has blown or is it simply not a clear fuse? Last edited by atticus3897; 03-31-2008 at 20:08.. Reason: new info |
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#6
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the amp wont turn on without the fuse in there you fucking asshole.
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#7
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Quote:
So how would you have tested that fuse with no test equipment and a fuse you couldn't see through Tom ?? Found a schematic this morning and looking at it there are (3) fuses mounted on a circuit board inside. F201 - 1.5A SloBlo - High Voltage supply fuse (my guess if it's a blown fuse it's this one, but there's likely a reason it blew) F202 - 1A Pigtail (soldered in) type fuse - Power tubes DC bias supply F203 - 3.0A - Filament and Pilot Lamp DC supply (not blown) Sorry atticus, it looks like it's time for a trip to the amp doctor.....hopefully under warranty. If you're interested in the schematic here's where you can get it> http://www.schematicheaven.com/post70s.htm |
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#8
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problem is, i can't afford to bring it to an amp specialist, im gonna have to do some shopping around for a good price, but thanks
ps, tom and i are friends, so he is just busting my balls |
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#9
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what kind of safety pre-cautions could i take so i could maybe do this on my own? perhaps heavy duty rubber gloves?
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#10
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Quote:
BTW, if it is one of those internal fuses, it's not very likely that the blown fuse is your only problem; something took out that fuse. Even if you did get the blown fuse replaced, it would probably just blow again. All the more reason to take it in. Last edited by ggunn; 04-01-2008 at 12:58.. |
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#11
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oibviously you dont have the required skill set to work on this yourself... and when it's broke aint really a good time to start learning it...
as to looking for a deal on a tech... this comes under the heading of false economy... how much have you saved if the guy takes 2-3X's as long to fix it??? find a good tech and pay him what he's worth... if we keep this shit up no ones gonna want to be a tech and then where will ya be ??? buy ing a new amp because ya couldn't get anyone to fix it....
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37.8% of all statistics are made up on the spot... hey give a guy some room... people are trying to evolve here... for crying out loud... |
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#12
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Thanks for the information ....
Last edited by gvarko; 04-01-2008 at 14:05.. |
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#13
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..........................
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#14
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turns out the tubes got loose in transport, so i pushed em all back in and everything is back to normal
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#15
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Quote:
![]() Glad you figured it out....... |
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#16
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Wow! That was lucky! Good job.
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#17
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I would think that's some pretty rough transport to make the tubes come loose out of their sockets. WOW! Either that or Peavey put some pretty darn scummy tube sockets in there....
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Just think how good you could play if you were sober! My Little Corner Of The World SC's MySpace |
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#18
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no i have had it for a while now, i meant while i was transporting it from my practice place back to my room
i try to be very careful, ill just be a little more careful from now on |
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#19
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switch it on stand-by when you're done, let it power done for five minutes. Hot tubes are delicate!
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#20
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The tube heaters stay on in standby.
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#21
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You're quite right
....well, put it on stand-by, switch it off, and dont move it right away.
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#22
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yeah im really good about let it warm up for at least 5 minutes, and then i keep on standby for a while, and if i am transporting i usually let it sit for a few minutes before i unplug it etc
but thanks everyone for the help |
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#23
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I never use the standby switch unless I'm letting the amp sit for a while powered up and I don't want it to make any noise, otherwise I just flip them both on and off together. I've been playing through tube amps for 40 years and never had any other need for standby. Some of my amps don't even have a standby switch.
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#24
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ok... well then now might be agood time to learn alittle about tube amps after all...
one of these days unplug it after you're done and let it sit till morning... then pull the head out of the cab and pull all the tubes and lay them out in order so they all go back the same... now look down into the sockets and check out how they grab the pins of the tubes.... what ya want to do is close them up abit so they grab the tubes better... use a little (jewlers) screw driver to manipulate the tabs (i use dental picks)... while you're in there give it a good once over to visualy familiarize yourself with the parts (maybe take some pics for reference) so when you read some of these threads you know what we're talking about... glad it worked out for ya..
__________________
37.8% of all statistics are made up on the spot... hey give a guy some room... people are trying to evolve here... for crying out loud... |
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