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#1
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First of all:
WARNING!!!!!!!! Incorrect wiring, connection, wrong component etc in this project MAY DAMAGE Your Recorder. So, please, be very careful if you decide to build a wired remote control for your machine. ********* Here's the link to the project: http://www.mzentertainment.com/studi...ac_rc_120.html It is based on TEAC RC-120, but with a little modification. Two 1/4" foot-switch jacks were added: PLAY and STOP. This unit built mostly using RadioShack parts (switches, lamps). Circuit Diagram, Wiring Diagram, Photos and a short VIDEO - links are there on the page. Please, Drop me a note if any questions or comments. ******** SteveM! If you are reading this post, again, if you decide to build this remote, let me know, if you need any details or what ever. /later, guys, /respects |
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#2
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Yet again absolutely amazing work Mike! I'm in awe... Currently checking out the picts and video!
![]() BTW, I need to get one of those 'analog only' t-shirts. They're too cool! ![]() ------ |
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#4
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Quote:
Awesome Zee! Looks great! Thanks for putting this up.![]() |
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#5
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Steve, one little note regarding the original RC-120 circuit from the scan you've sent me.
See attached image. I think that the resistor's value there (in series with REC lamp) 470K/2W is an error. I can't be 100% sure, but if you use 470K resistor there then nothing happens , and why whould it ...dohhh, heh heh (the record lamp does not work).So my guess is that maybe it ment to be 470Ohms, there's no way for me to know for sure, though. So I've tried 750 Ohms / 2W resistor there (it's just because I happen to have those around) and it works fine with the lamps I've used (from radioshack - mini lamps 6Volt / 25mA). Also, I think the value of this resistor can be something between 500Ohms to maybe 1KOhm, also I did not test different resistors there. Just make sure you use no lesser than 2W rated resistor. Also the Resistor/Lamp does not affect the unit's operation, so if you don't need Record Lamp on the remote you can omit the lamp and resitor completely and ignore the pin #2. Same goes to PAUSE Lamp / pins # 3 and 4. Also, note, that the Plug and numbers of the pins on the original schematics shown as you look at the plug from the plug's pins side (NOT from plug's solder side and NOT as you look at the remote-jack on the back of the recorder!). So, pay attention to these details. /later |
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