Protecting solder joints (superglue?)

[Gear_Junky]

When making solder joints in electric guitars (i.e. connecting wires to POTs, etc.) would it be a good idea to "coat" the joint with something that would prevent oxidation? First thing that came to mind is superglue.

Thanks!

[dementedchord]

dont really think it's an issue but there used to be some stuff called tweak just for that purpose... used to carry it in my audiofool retail days... i think caig may make something similar...

[mshilarious]

Originally Posted by Gear_Junky

When making solder joints in electric guitars (i.e. connecting wires to POTs, etc.) would it be a good idea to "coat" the joint with something that would prevent oxidation? First thing that came to mind is superglue.

Thanks!

Wow, no don't use superglue. If you ever want to redo the joint, change anything, etc., you'd be burning off the glue which can't be good for you, and it will make a mess of your tip.

Use a good quality solder and do the joint right, and there should be no troubles. You can DeOx the joints every couple of years if you want, but I wouldn't bother unless there was a problem.

[Gear_Junky]

Originally Posted by mshilarious

Wow, no don't use superglue. If you ever want to redo the joint, change anything, etc., you'd be burning off the glue which can't be good for you, and it will make a mess of your tip.

Use a good quality solder and do the joint right, and there should be no troubles. You can DeOx the joints every couple of years if you want, but I wouldn't bother unless there was a problem.

yes, i thought of that too and also figured that a good solid joint, even if oxidized on surface, should be good inside. Oh well, just checking

thx!

[dementedchord]

Originally Posted by mshilarious

you'd be burning off the glue which can't be good for you, .

oooohhh forgot that superglue is a cyanide based chemical... good call MSH...

[gvarko]

You could always give a wrap or 2 of electrical tape over the top of the pot. That would add some protection and is easy to remove when needed.

[ggunn]

Originally Posted by gvarko

You could always give a wrap or 2 of electrical tape over the top of the pot. That would add some protection and is easy to remove when needed.

Protection from what? Any oxidation that happens to solder is on the surface only, and if oxidation can get to the solder joint itself (where the solder and the metals being soldered meet) then it's a bad solder joint to start with. This can happen when you move the wires around before the solder has completely cooled, which opens up tiny cracks in the solder where air and moisture can get in. This is a "cold solder joint" and it can take years for the connection to fail. Tape wouldn't help it.

Make your solder joints correctly and you won't need to protect them.

[Fusioninspace]

Here's what I look for in a good solder joint:

1. No "balling" up.
2. The solder should melt into/onto the surface of the wires/contact. So all of the metal is a continous-smooth-flow look to it.

If it's done right, there should never be a need to do it again. But it's easy to undo when it's time to swap components.

The only problem I routinely have with soldering is overheating something and melting part of the pot/connector

I'm getting better - but not perfect.

[dementedchord]

Originally Posted by Fusioninspace

The only problem I routinely have with soldering is overheating something and melting part of the pot/connector .

it's a matter of practice and a variable temp iron helps....

[gvarko]

Originally Posted by ggunn

Protection from what? Any oxidation that happens to solder is on the surface only, and if oxidation can get to the solder joint itself (where the solder and the metals being soldered meet) then it's a bad solder joint to start with. This can happen when you move the wires around before the solder has completely cooled, which opens up tiny cracks in the solder where air and moisture can get in. This is a "cold solder joint" and it can take years for the connection to fail. Tape wouldn't help it.

Make your solder joints correctly and you won't need to protect them.

I have only done this when I have active pups installed and fear the battery may hit the connections. I wasn't expecting protection from oxidation w/ tape..

[Roguetitan]

2 words
candle wax.

[BushmasterM4]

I may be wrong. But I believe solder does not oxidise. Ive never seen oxidation on solder joints. Ive seen harden flux on joints that were not cleaned after the soldering process. And I've seen dirty solder joints because the pieces were not cleaned prior to soldering process. But never oxidation

[arcaxis]

Not even sure you can still get it, but do not use an acid core flux such as plumbers might use. I've been using Kester rosin core solder for many years and never had a problem with oxidation or corrosion.

[Track Rat]

Originally Posted by BushmasterM4

I may be wrong. But I believe solder does not oxidise. Ive never seen oxidation on solder joints. Ive seen harden flux on joints that were not cleaned after the soldering process. And I've seen dirty solder joints because the pieces were not cleaned prior to soldering process. But never oxidation

Ditto.......

[Roguetitan]

Originally Posted by arcaxis

Not even sure you can still get it, but do not use an acid core flux such as plumbers might use. I've been using Kester rosin core solder for many years and never had a problem with oxidation or corrosion.

+1
corrosion will not occur unless the copper is exposed to damp weather. The inside of a guitar is protected against the elements however applying wax on the exposed soldered joint will help to prevent the possibility of any loose bare connections causing a short (not very common but it can happen) for a spliced joint on a wire always slide a piece of shrink tube up on the wire before soldering then you can slide the tube up on the splice and shrink the tube on the joint.

[Fusioninspace]

Originally Posted by Roguetitan

2 words
candle wax.

3 syllables...

[arcaxis]

A couple more things about soldering and copper printed circuit boards....

- Silicone RTV adhesives and sealants are handy to use when you want to fasten parts or wires to PC boards. Some RTV's use acetic acid as a curing agent and can over time corrode and destroy wires and copper raceways on PC boards. The acetic acid RTV's can be recognized by a strong smell similiar to vinegar. Don't use them.

- If you're really concerned about your electronics possibly being exposed to harsh environments, you can paint it with a "conformal coating". This will protect circuit boards against moisture, corrosion, and other harmful agents. Makes it damn difficult to do repairs also.
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/4223.html
Totally would be a waste on the inards of a guitar, but if it makes you feel better......

[Gear_Junky]

wow, i may have unleashed the wrong can of electronic worms

guys, i'm done installing new pickups. no superglue

i gave it my best, but only had a fairly thick iron tip + narrow control cavity, so i don't know how good those joints are. at least it works.

i will likely re-gut the wiring later on anyway, and when I do, I'll do all the soldering before installing the pots, so I'm not cramped down there. and with the right solder tip.

thanks for all your responses.

[punkin]

Originally Posted by mshilarious

Wow, no don't use superglue. If you ever want to redo the joint, change anything, etc., you'd be burning off the glue which can't be good for you, and it will make a mess of your tip.

Use a good quality solder and do the joint right, and there should be no troubles. You can DeOx the joints every couple of years if you want, but I wouldn't bother unless there was a problem.

Good call. Reminds of of epoxy covered boards . What a nightmare. Technique, good materials and that's it. Too cold an iron and the joint may crack and create intermittent joints, too hot and the wire, the board or the eylets will burn/melt or lift traces from the board.

If you're joining two wire ends use some shrink tubing.

[JMarcomb]

id use shrink tubing as punkin mentioned.. but i think that might be a little overboard.. id spend the time and energy into the quality of the solder joints

also if your doing any circuit debugging its nice to have a clear view of your layout... glues and tubing will just make things more difficult in the future

[Roguetitan]

Originally Posted by JMarcomb

id use shrink tubing as punkin mentioned.. but i think that might be a little overboard.. id spend the time and energy into the quality of the solder joints

also if your doing any circuit debugging its nice to have a clear view of your layout... glues and tubing will just make things more difficult in the future

But it sure does make the job look neat