Difference between ddrum red shot and pro triggers?

[breeeeza]

Is there any apart from the pro being more sturdy, do the red shot do any funky false triggering or miss triggering or are a pain to set up or what? Thanks

[Farview]

The redshot kick triggers don't work as well. I haven't tried the others redshots.

[RawDepth]

I've been using the red shots for years and I absolutely love them. I have yet to break one. I got the 5 pack about 5 years ago and used them regularly for live gigs for about the first two years. Also during that first year I bought a second 5 pack kit as a backup. (In case I break one.) To this day I have still not opened the new pack. The drum set gets used in the studio once in a while now and they still work fine.

TIP: They don't work as good if you put them on regular drum heads. (With the exception of the kick, no triggers do.) Some double triggering or missed triggers. But if you put them on "mesh" drum heads, they work perfectly.

[breeeeza]

Originally Posted by Farview

The redshot kick triggers don't work as well. I haven't tried the others redshots.

Im most worried about the kick drum trigger as the snare wotn be triggered allthough the toms might be? not sure yet but i need to use it for really fast double bass and i want triggers that wont miss trigger so should i just buy the pro bass drum trigger?

[Farview]

The only way to get them to work well on really fast double bass is to stuff the kick drum. If you are trying to get a good mic'd kick sound at the same time, forget it.

The pro triggers work well no matter how the drum is tuned or how dead the head is.

If your drummer rests his beater against the head when he isn't hitting, that will cause mistriggers.

[RawDepth]

Originally Posted by Farview

...If your drummer rests his beater against the head when he isn't hitting, that will cause mistriggers.

I didn't have that problem. My module has a sensitivity adjustment to prevent this. If you set it higher, it acts like a "threshold" setting that the intensity of the drum hit must go over before it will trigger. I tweaked it for my playing style.

Furthermore, I placed the trigger (the round flat type) so it is sandwiched between two pieces of 4" thick foam under the head. The first piece of foam touches the drum head snugly to deaden it. Then the trigger is attached to an 8" round rigid plate to make it more sensitive under all that foam. Then 4 more inches of foam completes the sandwich. I glued it all together except for an access passage way to service the trigger.

Both pieces of foam are cut slightly larger than the inside diameter of the drum so it all stays in place by friction. I could remove it without having any damage to the drum.

I originally tried using a mesh head on the kick with a trigger on the outside, but my beater just tore a hole in that head in about three days. Then I tried applying a stick-on beater pad but it wouldn't stay on. I went back to using a conventional drumhead with the foam sandwich thing on the inside. It has been working well for about 4 or 5 years now.

[breeeeza]

Originally Posted by Farview

The only way to get them to work well on really fast double bass is to stuff the kick drum. If you are trying to get a good mic'd kick sound at the same time, forget it.

The pro triggers work well no matter how the drum is tuned or how dead the head is.

If your drummer rests his beater against the head when he isn't hitting, that will cause mistriggers.

allright thanks, my bass drum has a sleeping bag in it at the moment so its pretty dead. Do you know anything about the roland bass drum triggers? Thanks

[Farview]

Originally Posted by RawDepth

I didn't have that problem. My module has a sensitivity adjustment to prevent this. If you set it higher, it acts like a "threshold" setting that the intensity of the drum hit must go over before it will trigger. I tweaked it for my playing style.

Furthermore, I placed the trigger (the round flat type) so it is sandwiched between two pieces of 4" thick foam under the head. The first piece of foam touches the drum head snugly to deaden it. Then the trigger is attached to an 8" round rigid plate to make it more sensitive under all that foam. Then 4 more inches of foam completes the sandwich. I glued it all together except for an access passage way to service the trigger.

Both pieces of foam are cut slightly larger than the inside diameter of the drum so it all stays in place by friction. I could remove it without having any damage to the drum.

I originally tried using a mesh head on the kick with a trigger on the outside, but my beater just tore a hole in that head in about three days. Then I tried applying a stick-on beater pad but it wouldn't stay on. I went back to using a conventional drumhead with the foam sandwich thing on the inside. It has been working well for about 4 or 5 years now.

So........Redshot triggers work great on your kick if you go through all that?????!!!!!!!

You could have just gotten the pro triggers and you wouldn't need 8 inches of foam and a ridgid plate. Just spend the extra $20 for crissakes.

[Farview]

Originally Posted by breeeeza

allright thanks, my bass drum has a sleeping bag in it at the moment so its pretty dead. Do you know anything about the roland bass drum triggers? Thanks

The Ddrum pro triggers are the way to go.

[breeeeza]

Originally Posted by Farview

The Ddrum pro triggers are the way to go.

Allright thanks alot


if it would let me i would leave you some 'rep'

[RawDepth]

Originally Posted by Farview

So........Redshot triggers work great on your kick if you go through all that?????!!!!!!!

You could have just gotten the pro triggers and you wouldn't need 8 inches of foam and a ridgid plate. Just spend the extra $20 for crissakes.

Well I would have, except the Pro triggers didn't exist 5 years ago. The more I think about it that was not a redshot either. All the rest of my triggers on the kit are, though.

I wanted to deaden the drum anyway, so it made perfect sense.

[Farview]

Originally Posted by RawDepth

Well I would have, except the Pro triggers didn't exist 5 years ago. The more I think about it that was not a redshot either. All the rest of my triggers on the kit are, though.

I wanted to deaden the drum anyway, so it made perfect sense.

I've been usingthe pro triggers since the 80's. They aren't new. The redshots haven't been around for that long.

[RawDepth]

Originally Posted by Farview

I've been usingthe pro triggers since the 80's. They aren't new. The redshots haven't been around for that long.

This is the 5 pack that I bought five years ago. I didn’t know about the other ones at the time if they did exist.

Oh well.

But yes, my point was, they worked good on my toms and snare and they work their best on mesh heads.

The Pros might be better, I don't know, I never tried them.

[Farview]

Originally Posted by RawDepth

This is the 5 pack that I bought five years ago. I didn’t know about the other ones at the time if they did exist.

Oh well.

But yes, my point was, they work good and they work best on mesh heads.

Those are the redshots.

This is what the real kick trigger looks like.

[NRS]

I got the RED SHOTS for my Pearl Rhythem Traveler but quickly found they dont work well with just any mesh head. Problem was the Pearl heads were a thin single ply that just didnt tranfer sensitive playing very well to the triggers at the rim. Switched to heavier double ply Roland heads after that and everything worked fine.

If you do plan on going the mesh head route an even better option may be to just build your own permanet internal triggers like commercial kits have. Not only do they work better, they're actually pretty cheap too build. Check out the DIY forums at both edrumming.com and vdrums.com for info on this.

Originally Posted by RawDepth

I originally tried using a mesh head on the kick with a trigger on the outside, but my beater just tore a hole in that head in about three days. Then I tried applying a stick-on beater pad but it wouldn't stay on.

The trick to getting this to work is to use two beater pads, one on the inside and one on the outside (stuck back to back together) with an additional thin layer of glue between them