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#1
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Tone switch clicking
How do I get my tone switch (the treble/rythm switch, in case I'm making up names here) to stop clicking when I switch it from one setting to the other? Granted, the switch is like 28 years old, so do I just need to clean it off or something? Thanks.
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#2
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#3
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What guitar, what pickups?? Any other unwanted clicks pops etc? Just started doing it? or always done it?
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#4
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It's the sort of click that comes through the amp. On a Gibson The Paul from '79. I've had the guitar for several years now and it's done this the whole time, but I got it used, so I don't know what it did before that. That's the only unwanted clicking my guitar does.
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#5
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A good cleaning with Deoxit 5 (or other good cleaner) may solve your problem. Unfortunately on older guitars, parts like switches wear and have to be replaced sometimes. Replacing the switch may be your only option to eliminate the click. Try cleaning first, if it works, fine, if not, you know the other option.
__________________
The more I learn, the more I realize how much I don't know. http://www.soundclick.com/sixfeetover |
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#6
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Try any good electronics cleaner (you can get TV tuner cleaner at Rat Shack that works just fine). It may not work, but those switches are pretty expensive ($20 or so), so I would at least try to clean it first. While your at it, you may as well clean your pots.
Light "Cowards can never be moral." M.K. Gandhi |
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#7
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Do I clean the flexible metal parts, or the actual switch? And how do I clean the pots? Thanks.
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#8
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Cleaning may help. I use a wd40 type spray that is free of oil and silacates on switches and pots. Not sure what the equivilant is in the US but any light electrical cleaner will do the job.
I suspect you will need to replace the switch tho as any pops and clicks due to dirty switches and pots is normally accompanied with scratching and some white noise. You could be lucky and get some more life outta the one you got. A good guitar tech would sort it for you for the cost of the switch and an hours work. Worth it on a guitar like that |
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#9
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I have a fairly new LP that has always done it. I recently used the deoxit, and then I ran across another product buy the same company. It was called gold something. The deoxit just cleans the contacts but the Gold??? actually lubricates and last for a much longer time. Just go to a Radio Shack they have 3 different products and they are always stocked right next to each other.
This stuff works great on everything even jacks and plugs. |
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#10
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The hardware on these 'Pauls' is really quite good, much better than whats found today, my tuners are Grovers, the pots and switches are heavy duty by today's standards, and check out the output jack, its shielded inside a steel can! |
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#11
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Cool, I'll give it a shot when I've got some free time again... thanks.
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#12
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#13
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Update the stuff I mentioned is called Progold, I knew gold was in there somewhere.
If your only problem is the selector switch popping then you won't even have to bother with the pots. Only one of mine sounded a little scratchy. If you use spray it can get kind of messy and the stuff will drip out of the pots for days. I would use the stuff I mentioned in the felt marker format it is a lot cleaner and less chance of getting on your guitar. I believe there are only 3 screws hold the switch cover on and 4 on the pot cover. |
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#14
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Actually, The Paul guitar from the late 70's has the switch located between the rhythm pickups volume and tone knobs, see the picture below. And as old as the pots are, I would clean them while the controls are open. |
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#15
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Heres the back, and the access plate to the controls.
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#16
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I've never seen one like that
The one I have now is Studio with ebony fret board.
I did have a gold top back in the early 70's but it had the selector switch in the same location as my studio. I bought my studio in 99 or 2000. I haven't really checked any out lately I've been into single coils ![]() I sold my goldtop, 68stat, 10tele, Dan Armstrong, D18 and ES335 when I got married along with a slew of great tube amps. Probably the stupidest thilng I've ever done selling the guitars that is;( |
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#17
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Just to be clear; do NOT use WD40. It is a lubricant, which is not what you want. It also contains solvents which will distroy the tracks in your pots. Use a contact cleaner (and Rat Shacks TV Tuner cleaner is just fine). Light "Cowards can never be moral." M.K. Gandhi |
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#18
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Sorry I said WD40 "Type" cleaner I wasn't in the workshop when I posted and couldn't remember the name. Wd4O will also damage some finishes so stay away from it. The stuff I use is called Servisol and is free of anything damaging to your guitar. In the UK you can get it from Maplins.
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#19
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I used the "Control Cleaner/Lubricant" that Radio Shack has (which I think is the same thing as their TV Tuner cleaner, as it says on the can that it's especially good for TV tuners), but I'm still getting a clicking. Also, I couldn't see where to clean the pots, although they don't really need it. Mine don't seem to have an opening (and my input jack isn't in a steel can, either). Maybe yours is better shielded than mine or something. The clicking is most noticeable when there just a little bit of ringing from the strings coming through, but not when I'm playing loudly or not at all.
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#20
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#21
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Am I at least using the right stuff? I'm wondering if it has more to do with the nature of the switch... I'm thinking that when the pieces of metal separate to change tones, there's a bit of static popping between them or something. I feel like new switches do not operate in this strange fashion, and hence wouldn't have clicking.
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#22
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Yeah, that's the right stuff. Truth is, those switches go bad. There design is relies on metal retaining its "springiness." The sad truth is, metal will eventually stop springing back, and when that happens you can get all kinds of funny noises. If the contact cleaner doesn't work, get the switch replaced. By the by, I'm writing this post while asleep. My eyes are shut and everything. I guess that touch typing class in high school did some good after all. Light "Cowards can never be moral." M.K. Gandhi |
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#23
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The metal still seems to be pretty springy... at least, when I watch it as I move the switch, it looks like it's all functioning fine. Is it just the type of switch?
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#24
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Pretty much, yeah. Just replace it. They're not THAT expensive. Light "Cowards can never be moral." M.K. Gandhi |
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#25
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Cool. Thanks guys, you've been helpful as always.
Actually, last question, should I have someone put the switch in for me, or is it easy enough to do myself? (I have basic soldering knowledge) |
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