Reseating Card - Progress With Alignment

[SteveMac]

I finally got my MRL today and all the tracks are lining up great except track 2. Reproduce calibration went off without a hitch, I got all the levels reading -10 in repro and sync modes, but when I got to record calibration, track 2 started giving me trouble with the bias level adjustment. It was going off the scale instead of falling back the 4-5db that it's supposed to. No problems with any of the other tracks just 2. So I went back and checked to make sure I had set that track right with the MRL and then found that I wasn't getting a -10 output in sync mode anymore for that track only when it's in reproduce mode was I getting the -10 output, in fact, in sync mode it would fall off the meter completely. It was fine the first time around, again all the other tracks are fine. I noticed when I pushed the card in a little I was starting to get a reading out of it. So, I'm wondering, if the card might need to be re-seated, and when you talk about "re-seating" it do you mean literally pulling the card out. I got the back off now to see whats there behind it but I don't want to force anything until I know what I'm doing.

[evm1024]

Originally Posted by SteveMac

ISNIP!

I noticed when I pushed the card in a little I was starting to get a reading out of it. So, I'm wondering, if the card might need to be re-seated, and when you talk about "re-seating" it do you mean literally pulling the card out. I got the back off now to see whats there behind it but I don't want to force anything until I know what I'm doing.

Yes, That is exactly what they mean. Oxide, dirt and just plain crap finds its way into the contacts and causes problems. mechanical movement can clean some of this up.

Better would be to take a picture of the card cage and then take out the boards keeping them in order and clean the connectors with a high quality contact cleaner and perhaps a tooth brush. Also spray and clean the cingers onthe cards themselves.

Then reinsert the cards in the same location.

Why the picture? As a visual reference when you loose track of the cards placement. Also worth considering individual labels .

It sounds like you are long on your way! Great job!

[SteveMac]

I did pull out the connectors in the back cleaned them and reconnected them for track two but it didn't help. So let me get this right, you actually pull the card right out of the board? It's not soldered to the board? How much force? I notice there are tiny leads going from the card into the board, isn't that impossible to line back up again? It looks it. BTW, I didn't check azimuth because I don't have a scope. Could that throw one track off?

[cjacek]

Originally Posted by SteveMac

BTW, I didn't check azimuth because I don't have a scope.

This may help:

http://www.analogrules.com/azimuth1.html

[evm1024]

Originally Posted by SteveMac

I did pull out the connectors in the back cleaned them and reconnected them for track two but it didn't help. So let me get this right, you actually pull the card right out of the board? It's not soldered to the board. How much force? I notice there are tiny leads going from the card into the board, isn't that impossible to line back up again? It looks it. BTW, I didn't check azimuth because I don't have a scope. Could that throw one track off?

OK it shows my ignorance of the deck. Got a photo? Others here will know more than me.

In general if it is not soldered on you should be able to pull it out once the retaining bar is removed. Moderate pull should be all that is needed. No "force" as in will break.

The way I visualize this is a set of boards plugged into a motherboard. If that is the case the boards should pull out without excessive force.

Others who know steves deck should interject and save the day at this point.

--E

[SteveMac]

Originally Posted by cjacek

This may help:

http://www.analogrules.com/azimuth1.html

Thanks Daniel, I'll have to print that out and look it over.

[SteveMac]

Originally Posted by evm1024

OK it shows my ignorance of the deck. Got a photo? Others here will know more than me.

In general if it is not soldered on you should be able to pull it out once the retaining bar is removed. Moderate pull should be all that is needed. No "force" as in will break.

The way I visualize this is a set of boards plugged into a motherboard. If that is the case the boards should pull out without excessive force.

--E

I haven't got a good enough look to see if they're soldered. It is 8 cards plugged into a mother board, each card has 4 plug connections on the other side of the board.

[jpmorris]

Originally Posted by SteveMac

I haven't got a good enough look to see if they're soldered. It is 8 cards plugged into a mother board, each card has 4 plug connections on the other side of the board.

I have a feeling they were soldered in mine - If I remember I'll open it up tonight and look inside.

[SteveMac]

Originally Posted by jpmorris

I have a feeling they were soldered in mine - If I remember I'll open it up tonight and look inside.

I think you're right.

I got the output reading -10 in sync mode again for track two, I'm not sure how though. But now I have to go back and see if the bias will line up.