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#1
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What to use for my room surfaces
First off, I need to contain the sound from leaking out to the neighbors' houses as best I can. So right now, I plan on putting in a concrete sub-base poured in place slab, with wood floor joists and wood flooring on top for the floor. Walls, well the structure is made out of concrete block. I plan on 2x4 studs laid flat with drywall. Ceiling is still up in the air, either wood or drywall, treated, semi-treated, or bare wood. Give me your thoughts. This is only a 13' x 14' interior space after wood and drywall. See the floor plan and draft equipment layout on the "let me see your studio" thread if you want. Setting rebar in the foundation forms tomorrow and weather permitting, will start concrete for the foundation footing. Just trying to think ahead on what materials I would want to use for this space....better to plan ahead than not.
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My girl there are just some things that aren't done...like drinking Dom Perignon '53 above the temperature of 38 degrees Fahrenheit |
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#2
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Quote:
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/vi...2ef75d27fe29ca
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alright breaks over, back on your heads! |
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#3
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Thanks for the links. I am an architect by profession, so rebar placement and structural design have already been accounted for. What I haven't dealt with in experience is the actual detailed acoustics of design for recording purposes. That is what I am seeking right now, not building advice...thanks for the heads up though.
![]() Edit: I am pouring the sub-floor slab for sound isolation, noting structural. The wood floor will be suspended wood joists, suspended to negate moisture contact with the concrete slab (capillary effect, concrete is porous and draws moisture, wood and moisture is not a good combination) So there will be a little breathing room between the wood floor joists and the slab, the slab namely to minimize vibrations coming from the floor into the ground. Even though concrete carries vibration, it will serve as a buffer from the sound coming from the room floor before it ultimately goes into the ground.Edit again, I guess I was vague earlier on the reinforcing bars....1 (one) #5 bar continuous along the footing, 2" below with #5 "j" bars at each corner (columns) and #5 bars drilled and placed doweld to the footing of the existing structure.
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My girl there are just some things that aren't done...like drinking Dom Perignon '53 above the temperature of 38 degrees Fahrenheit Last edited by Seeker of Rock; 06-03-2006 at 22:09.. |
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#4
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Quote:
Hence the link. I have no interest in your skill or experience with rebar or structural elements. I was only suggesting it for the sake of hindsight being 20/20 when it comes to intuition vs isolation construction.
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alright breaks over, back on your heads! |
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#5
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Quote:
![]() Horse before the carriage....not really. I have the parameters determined in what I can physically work with and what I am building. Perhaps I wasn't clear on that and I apologize if I wasn't. But given I have a definitive space planned for my structure, and follow me here, the structure will be 12.5' x 13.5 interior space, and that is what I have to work with. I guess what I am may be looking for is any experience in floor construction for a studio. I noted the existing thread on this, but it doesn't cover my particular situation so I though I would post this thread to see if anyone had experience with floors...not so much what to treat them with, but actual constructive 'sections' that may or may not work well. Again, I think placing a slab beneath the floor joists, just by knowing masonry properties, would seem to add another level of containment before the vibrations enter the ground which I do not ultimately wish to have. And beyond that, I am just looking for a little advice down the road on what type of materials I may want to use for the interior. Again, taking the appropriate steps, first thing is getting the actual shell built, and I have little choice but to build the size and shape I have. Understand better now?
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My girl there are just some things that aren't done...like drinking Dom Perignon '53 above the temperature of 38 degrees Fahrenheit Last edited by Seeker of Rock; 06-04-2006 at 00:55.. |
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#6
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My statement had to do with structurally COUPLING the footing with the slab. Most studio designers DECOUPLE them with a resiliant spacer. Hence, no structural transmission from slab to OUTER leaf. Thats all. Good luck.
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alright breaks over, back on your heads! |
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#7
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http://www.kineticsnoise.com/arch/floors.html
These guys sell some great isolation materials for floors (and walls and ceilings too) |
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#8
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Quote:
Gotcha. Was just thrown off on the rebar statement, because on a poured floor slab you would normally have 4" thick and WWM(F)1010 or 1212. My slab is will be for support of the floor joists maybe, or maybe separated from the bottom of the joists. I guess that is what I am looking for an opinion on. So you say even if there is a slab beneath and not in direct contact with the floor joists, to buffer the slab where it connects with the foundation? Makes sense to me if I go with the joists laid on the slab route, instead of being suspended. Even if the floor is suspended, I still may get vibrations carrying down the walls where the slab would connect, and that would be where I use a resiliant connector. Not familiar with a resiliant connector...any advice on what I should look for? If I do the suspended floor with sub0slab, it sounds like I may want to go that route. I would have a free-standing slab if not connected, so I would have to anchor with posts or have compacted a base pretty well, but I guess I could do that.
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My girl there are just some things that aren't done...like drinking Dom Perignon '53 above the temperature of 38 degrees Fahrenheit |
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#9
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Quote:
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My girl there are just some things that aren't done...like drinking Dom Perignon '53 above the temperature of 38 degrees Fahrenheit |
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#10
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Quote:
The slab and the foundation are all part of the outer box. There is no need to isolate the slab from the foundation, only to isolate it from the inner box, which is what the isolation pads are for. |
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#11
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Hmmmmm, where did he say it was going to be a "room within a room" assembly? Here is what was describedQuote:
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alright breaks over, back on your heads! |
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#12
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Quote:
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My girl there are just some things that aren't done...like drinking Dom Perignon '53 above the temperature of 38 degrees Fahrenheit |
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#13
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I'm not getting into the floor thing, if it were me, I'd be more concerned with the sound transmission through the walls and mostly through the celing. You mentioned concrete walls (I assume you mean cinder block) and a wood celing. Fill the internal space of the blocks with vermiculite, this will both insulate and help dampen sound transmission. Overhead sound transmission may be your biggest problem. Double thickness dry wall will stop a lot more sound than wood, and don't forget to put lots of insulation above the celing. Another thing to consider is doors and windows. Heavy, solid doors which seal thoroughly are a must, double doors for even more sound reduction. Windows are almost impossible to "soundproof." Triple paine vaccum windows are best for this. Additional panels of rigid fiberglass to fit into window spaces will help reguardless of what type window you have. Don't forget to seal around all electrical outlets and fight fixtures. I hope some of these tips help, keep us posted on your progress.
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The more I learn, the more I realize how much I don't know. http://www.soundclick.com/sixfeetover |
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