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#1
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DIY digital drumkit in production
Part I.
I recently decided to go with a module off Ebay and DIY triggers for drums, instead of a programmable drum machine or computer-based program. Maybe my silly escpades will help people attempting to do DIY digital drums. I know there are several websites about it, but this is even more stripped-down, smaller than the rack-style, better laid out (and many more triggers) than the Yamaha DD line, and probably the cheapest way to go. Components: The module is a Yamaha TMX. I obtained 12 piezo speakers (aka triggers) and 12 1/4" jacks from Mouser. The board is a 1' x 2' piece of particle board from Home Depot. The triggers will be glued with epoxy to soup and coffee can lids (the smaller coffee cans not the huge ones). The lids will have a thin layer of a packing-type foam sheet between them and the board, and I picked up bulk mouse pads off ebay to cut up for the tops of the pads (which will be secured with silicone). The metal discs will be screwed into the surface of the board. The wires from the piezos will go through the board and will connect via extender wires soldered to the jacks. The bodies of the jacks will be under the board, and the inserts will poke out the top of the board along the top edge. There'll be 11 pads on the board (kind of set up like a drum kit), and for now, one kick. Kick is a $5 beater off ebay, which will be fastened to a wood L-shaped piece with another trigger sandwich. For now: I did a quick test run with two triggers, and it looks like it will work OK. I didn't get false triggers from the adjacent trigger pad like I was afraid of. It is velocity-sensitive too, and very reactive to the touch. Rough Prices so far (minus shipping, since that varies): Module: $100 6-pack of 3-foot 1/4" cords (ebay): $15 12 Piezos and 1/4" jacks: about $25 10 mouse pads: $5 Particle Board: $5 Glue and silicon: $8 Screws: $3 Bass pedal: $5 Total: $166 Maybe with shipping: approx. $210 Other: extension wiring, solder, drill, coffee can lids, foam sheet, 6 more guitar cords: had it already I'll post pics when done, and if all works out, a test run in which I'm playing the drums in a song. |
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#2
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I'm very interested in seeing how this comes off, I wish you the best of luck. I am looking at real low cost electronic drum kits, and the cheapest I've found is the Ion, which is going on ebay for around 215-250$. This would have more triggers and probably sound better for around the same price, with a little loving labor, so I think I'll hold off on that purchase...
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#3
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Quote:
Toughest part is nabbing the module without over-paying! |
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#4
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I'll get back to this...
Last edited by jesterscourt; 02-02-2006 at 14:53.. |
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#5
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Definitely give us a follow-up, Green. Drums are not my main instrument, but I have played a bit for years and have been very pleased with what my measely Yammie dd55 can do. I like its recorded sound much more than a typical drum machine, and I actually enjoy playing it. My ears are always open to improvement, though, so let us see how things look--and sound--if you get the chance.
J. |
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#6
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Quote:
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#7
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#8
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pics
here's some pics of the thing in production:
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...a/P2040028.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...a/P2040032.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...a/P2040031.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...a/P2040037.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...a/P2040043.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...a/P2040044.jpg so, the board basically has the following triggers: snare, hi tom, med tom, low tom, ride, bell, crash 1, crash 2, open hihat, closed hihat, and misc (cowbell, sticks splash, china, etc.) update: after connecting 6 of the pads, it seems to work pretty good. I've just been running through pre-sets and haven't messed with the sensitivity options of the unit, but there are some false triggers and some no-triggers. These may be correctable with some fine tuning of the velocity settings. I found that a thin, flat piece of metal (one from an instant cocoa container) works a lot better than a thicker soup or coffee can type that has many ridges. Last edited by GreenDank; 02-04-2006 at 16:40.. |
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#9
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looks great... thanks for the pics
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#10
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...
The board is complete, and the kick drum trigger unit is almost complete. A little tweaking, and I'll have a soundclip with guitars and bass by this weekend, as well as pics of the final product.
What are typical light drum sticks - 5Bs? |
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#11
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7As, i think, are one of the lightest
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#12
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I did one of these from plans ont he web a few years ago, same genral idea, triggers cglued to can lids etc, but they were sandwiched into remo practice pads throgh a DM5. Worked well and played enough like real drums for my tastes at the time, but as time went on I started to realize i jsut like playing a real set better. This is still a pretty good way to get something you can play on if you don;t have other options (like an area to play loud acoustic drums).
Good lucK! |
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#13
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Looking good there, Green. I'll be very interested to hear your soundclips and see the final pics.
I've got a similar project in the works, myself. Just bought a PM16 ($100 on ebay), and I'm building some Piezo triggered drums out of 8 and 10 inch Remo practice pads. I'm still experimenting with the drum construction (I've studied many different techniques for doing it, but I'm trying to find what works best for me). Then I'm gonna build an ABS rack to mount them all on. When complete, I'll probably have about 400-500 dollars into the project, but hope to have the features, performance and durability of a 1500-2000 dollar set. |
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#14
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...
thanks for the input....
final pics of the board and pedal assembly: http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...a/P2100047.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...a/P2100048.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...a/P2100049.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...a/P2100050.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...a/P2100051.jpg soundclips to come. |
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#15
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Just a word of advice, I got the Ion kit a few days ago off ebay (the pedals arrived broke, and there are two trigger inputs dead on the module) and its not that impressive.
The rack isnt that bad once you get it all tight. Something just isnt right tho, there is a midi transmission delay, going into my Terratec 2496 prosumer card. Ive tweaked them a bit, and took one of the toms and made it a kick drum (with real beater) and it works better. Im interested in what you have going. Ive got a acoustic set to convert, just not the room for it.
__________________
http://myspace.com/projectfightthesky |
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#16
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Quote:
This is probably common knowledge, but not to a guitarist like me: I just came to the realization this morning that the kick pedal really needs that bounce of a drum head to work well. A beater hitting a solid mass makes for some tough drumming! I may have to play some of the bass drum parts with my sticks! |
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#17
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grab one of those small remo practice pads to mount on your kick jiggy ma bob thingy
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/produ...ies?sku=442966 how's the home made board working out so far? any sound clips yet? |
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#18
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Quote:
Board is working pretty good. All triggers work, but I just haven't had any time to learn the module and program what triggers are which. I hope to have a sound clip tomorrow after I program it... |
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#19
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You could also try rigging the kick drum pedal with a spring or an elastic of some sort to provide that extra bounce...
Jason |
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#20
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Quote:
That way you'll have more foam to lay into, and it should be more like a loose kick head. Then tighten the compression spring on that pedal a little. That's a killer Tama Kick pedal, by the way. They screwed up big time when they quit making those. Everybody started bying the Camco model because it was about $50 cheaper., but it's not where near as good as the model you have. Tim |
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#21
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Quote:
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#22
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bump..........any progress?
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#23
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********bump***********
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#24
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...
Sorry for the long delay....took me awhile to figure out the unit and then record. The final out come is....they are damn hard to play. I can't seem to stop the false triggering and sometimes no triggering during recording. Then I'll check it, and it will seem fine. Must be my nervousness or over-excitment when the record button is on.
I had to do record a song in stages because of my screw ups and the unit's (actually my poorly-designed board). I ended up sounding like a caveman (if you were to give a neanderthal a drum set and put him in a studio). Hence, the name of the new tune: Caveman Jam. If anyone else tries the triggers all-on-one board thing, be very cautious, and use many layers of padding between the triggers and the board, or build little stand-ups off the board to prevent cross-triggering. If Yamaha's DD-50/55 gets around that problem...my hat is off to them. I would personally recommend going with separate triggers on a rack or something. Maybe the Alesis or Roland units would act differently, but I'll never know (or at least won't for a long time). I think in the future, I'll need to record things not only in sections of the song, but also in drum sections (snare and bass, then the toms, then the cymbals, etc.). This may work to my advantage though, because then I can put them on different channels for more control during mixing. Sorry for the long post. Well, here it is.... Only the drums (ouch): http://members.cox.net/jpgpics/CavemanDrums.mp3 The whole song: http://members.cox.net/jpgpics/CavemanJam.mp3 |
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#25
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Okay,
how did you mount the triggers to the board? Are the can lids mounted directly to the board? If so, that's going to cause all sorts of crosstalk and false triggering. You have the mount the metal pieces on foam, so that they float. If you attached the directly to the wood - you'll have to rebuild it. What you need to do, is use a hot glue gun and glue a foam "ring" (just a foam strip glued around the edge of the metal) between the wood and the metal to act as an insulator/isolation so that they strikes don't pass from one pad to the next. I would have made fewer pads on the unit, and made them bigger. Tim |
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