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  #1  
Old 01-31-2006
GreenDank GreenDank is offline
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DIY digital drumkit in production

Part I.

I recently decided to go with a module off Ebay and DIY triggers for drums, instead of a programmable drum machine or computer-based program. Maybe my silly escpades will help people attempting to do DIY digital drums. I know there are several websites about it, but this is even more stripped-down, smaller than the rack-style, better laid out (and many more triggers) than the Yamaha DD line, and probably the cheapest way to go.

Components:
The module is a Yamaha TMX. I obtained 12 piezo speakers (aka triggers) and 12 1/4" jacks from Mouser. The board is a 1' x 2' piece of particle board from Home Depot. The triggers will be glued with epoxy to soup and coffee can lids (the smaller coffee cans not the huge ones). The lids will have a thin layer of a packing-type foam sheet between them and the board, and I picked up bulk mouse pads off ebay to cut up for the tops of the pads (which will be secured with silicone). The metal discs will be screwed into the surface of the board.

The wires from the piezos will go through the board and will connect via extender wires soldered to the jacks. The bodies of the jacks will be under the board, and the inserts will poke out the top of the board along the top edge. There'll be 11 pads on the board (kind of set up like a drum kit), and for now, one kick. Kick is a $5 beater off ebay, which will be fastened to a wood L-shaped piece with another trigger sandwich.

For now: I did a quick test run with two triggers, and it looks like it will work OK. I didn't get false triggers from the adjacent trigger pad like I was afraid of. It is velocity-sensitive too, and very reactive to the touch.

Rough Prices so far (minus shipping, since that varies):
Module: $100
6-pack of 3-foot 1/4" cords (ebay): $15
12 Piezos and 1/4" jacks: about $25
10 mouse pads: $5
Particle Board: $5
Glue and silicon: $8
Screws: $3
Bass pedal: $5
Total: $166
Maybe with shipping: approx. $210

Other:
extension wiring, solder, drill, coffee can lids, foam sheet, 6 more guitar cords: had it already

I'll post pics when done, and if all works out, a test run in which I'm playing the drums in a song.
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Old 01-31-2006
jesterscourt jesterscourt is offline
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I'm very interested in seeing how this comes off, I wish you the best of luck. I am looking at real low cost electronic drum kits, and the cheapest I've found is the Ion, which is going on ebay for around 215-250$. This would have more triggers and probably sound better for around the same price, with a little loving labor, so I think I'll hold off on that purchase...
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Old 01-31-2006
GreenDank GreenDank is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesterscourt
I'm very interested in seeing how this comes off, I wish you the best of luck. I am looking at real low cost electronic drum kits, and the cheapest I've found is the Ion, which is going on ebay for around 215-250$. This would have more triggers and probably sound better for around the same price, with a little loving labor, so I think I'll hold off on that purchase...
I actually obtained the ion drum machine portion for a brief stint, not realizing it was just an SR-16. I thought it was a modified SR-16, but the ion trigger brain is a separate unit. I've read bad things about the trigger interface - that it doesn't always send the signals through. The brain of the TMX seems very fast. The Alesis D4 or DM5 are likely an upgrade, and not too much more in price. The ion rack doesn't look like it holds many triggers, you're right, and it looks hella cheapo.

Toughest part is nabbing the module without over-paying!
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Old 02-02-2006
jesterscourt jesterscourt is offline
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I'll get back to this...

Last edited by jesterscourt; 02-02-2006 at 14:53..
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Old 02-02-2006
jeffree jeffree is offline
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Definitely give us a follow-up, Green. Drums are not my main instrument, but I have played a bit for years and have been very pleased with what my measely Yammie dd55 can do. I like its recorded sound much more than a typical drum machine, and I actually enjoy playing it. My ears are always open to improvement, though, so let us see how things look--and sound--if you get the chance.

J.
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  #6  
Old 02-03-2006
GreenDank GreenDank is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffree
Definitely give us a follow-up, Green. Drums are not my main instrument, but I have played a bit for years and have been very pleased with what my measely Yammie dd55 can do. I like its recorded sound much more than a typical drum machine, and I actually enjoy playing it. My ears are always open to improvement, though, so let us see how things look--and sound--if you get the chance.

J.
will do. it's coming along. the caulk worked great for sticking the mousepads to the soupcan lids. lots of soldering to do yet....
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  #7  
Old 02-03-2006
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dr.colossus dr.colossus is offline
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pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures

please
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  #8  
Old 02-04-2006
GreenDank GreenDank is offline
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pics

here's some pics of the thing in production:

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...a/P2040028.jpg

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...a/P2040032.jpg

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...a/P2040031.jpg

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...a/P2040037.jpg

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...a/P2040043.jpg

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...a/P2040044.jpg

so, the board basically has the following triggers:
snare, hi tom, med tom, low tom, ride, bell, crash 1, crash 2, open hihat, closed hihat, and misc (cowbell, sticks splash, china, etc.)

update:
after connecting 6 of the pads, it seems to work pretty good. I've just been running through pre-sets and haven't messed with the sensitivity options of the unit, but there are some false triggers and some no-triggers. These may be correctable with some fine tuning of the velocity settings. I found that a thin, flat piece of metal (one from an instant cocoa container) works a lot better than a thicker soup or coffee can type that has many ridges.

Last edited by GreenDank; 02-04-2006 at 16:40..
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  #9  
Old 02-04-2006
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looks great... thanks for the pics
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  #10  
Old 02-09-2006
GreenDank GreenDank is offline
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...

The board is complete, and the kick drum trigger unit is almost complete. A little tweaking, and I'll have a soundclip with guitars and bass by this weekend, as well as pics of the final product.

What are typical light drum sticks - 5Bs?
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  #11  
Old 02-09-2006
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7As, i think, are one of the lightest
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Old 02-09-2006
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I did one of these from plans ont he web a few years ago, same genral idea, triggers cglued to can lids etc, but they were sandwiched into remo practice pads throgh a DM5. Worked well and played enough like real drums for my tastes at the time, but as time went on I started to realize i jsut like playing a real set better. This is still a pretty good way to get something you can play on if you don;t have other options (like an area to play loud acoustic drums).

Good lucK!
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  #13  
Old 02-09-2006
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Looking good there, Green. I'll be very interested to hear your soundclips and see the final pics.

I've got a similar project in the works, myself. Just bought a PM16 ($100 on ebay), and I'm building some Piezo triggered drums out of 8 and 10 inch Remo practice pads. I'm still experimenting with the drum construction (I've studied many different techniques for doing it, but I'm trying to find what works best for me). Then I'm gonna build an ABS rack to mount them all on. When complete, I'll probably have about 400-500 dollars into the project, but hope to have the features, performance and durability of a 1500-2000 dollar set.
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Old 02-10-2006
GreenDank GreenDank is offline
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...

thanks for the input....

final pics of the board and pedal assembly:

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...a/P2100047.jpg

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...a/P2100048.jpg

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...a/P2100049.jpg

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...a/P2100050.jpg

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...a/P2100051.jpg

soundclips to come.
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  #15  
Old 02-10-2006
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Just a word of advice, I got the Ion kit a few days ago off ebay (the pedals arrived broke, and there are two trigger inputs dead on the module) and its not that impressive.

The rack isnt that bad once you get it all tight. Something just isnt right tho, there is a midi transmission delay, going into my Terratec 2496 prosumer card.

Ive tweaked them a bit, and took one of the toms and made it a kick drum (with real beater) and it works better.

Im interested in what you have going. Ive got a acoustic set to convert, just not the room for it.
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Old 02-10-2006
GreenDank GreenDank is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CavityCr33p
Just a word of advice, I got the Ion kit a few days ago off ebay (the pedals arrived broke, and there are two trigger inputs dead on the module) and its not that impressive.

The rack isnt that bad once you get it all tight. Something just isnt right tho, there is a midi transmission delay, going into my Terratec 2496 prosumer card.

Ive tweaked them a bit, and took one of the toms and made it a kick drum (with real beater) and it works better.

Im interested in what you have going. Ive got a acoustic set to convert, just not the room for it.
Their midi brain must have some type of flaw. Which sucks because it seemed like they were onto something using an sr-16 for the sounds - I like that unit. Props for the heads up on its downfalls, because I think it's looked tempting to a lot of people (including me).

This is probably common knowledge, but not to a guitarist like me: I just came to the realization this morning that the kick pedal really needs that bounce of a drum head to work well. A beater hitting a solid mass makes for some tough drumming! I may have to play some of the bass drum parts with my sticks!
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  #17  
Old 02-10-2006
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grab one of those small remo practice pads to mount on your kick jiggy ma bob thingy

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/produ...ies?sku=442966

how's the home made board working out so far? any sound clips yet?
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Old 02-10-2006
GreenDank GreenDank is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TravisinFlorida
grab one of those small remo practice pads to mount on your kick jiggy ma bob thingy

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/produ...ies?sku=442966

how's the home made board working out so far? any sound clips yet?
good idea. I think I'll need to incorporate a practice pad like that for the kick.

Board is working pretty good. All triggers work, but I just haven't had any time to learn the module and program what triggers are which.

I hope to have a sound clip tomorrow after I program it...
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  #19  
Old 02-10-2006
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You could also try rigging the kick drum pedal with a spring or an elastic of some sort to provide that extra bounce...

Jason
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  #20  
Old 02-10-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenDank
good idea. I think I'll need to incorporate a practice pad like that for the kick.

Board is working pretty good. All triggers work, but I just haven't had any time to learn the module and program what triggers are which.

I hope to have a sound clip tomorrow after I program it...
Try sandwiching the trigger Assembly in several layers of foam.

That way you'll have more foam to lay into, and it should be more like a loose kick head. Then tighten the compression spring on that pedal a little.

That's a killer Tama Kick pedal, by the way. They screwed up big time when they quit making those. Everybody started bying the Camco model because it was about $50 cheaper., but it's not where near as good as the model you have.



Tim
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  #21  
Old 02-10-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Brown
Try sandwiching the trigger Assembly in several layers of foam.
sounds like a good idea.
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  #22  
Old 02-11-2006
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bump..........any progress?
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Old 02-12-2006
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********bump***********
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Old 02-12-2006
GreenDank GreenDank is offline
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...

Sorry for the long delay....took me awhile to figure out the unit and then record. The final out come is....they are damn hard to play. I can't seem to stop the false triggering and sometimes no triggering during recording. Then I'll check it, and it will seem fine. Must be my nervousness or over-excitment when the record button is on.

I had to do record a song in stages because of my screw ups and the unit's (actually my poorly-designed board). I ended up sounding like a caveman (if you were to give a neanderthal a drum set and put him in a studio). Hence, the name of the new tune: Caveman Jam.

If anyone else tries the triggers all-on-one board thing, be very cautious, and use many layers of padding between the triggers and the board, or build little stand-ups off the board to prevent cross-triggering. If Yamaha's DD-50/55 gets around that problem...my hat is off to them. I would personally recommend going with separate triggers on a rack or something. Maybe the Alesis or Roland units would act differently, but I'll never know (or at least won't for a long time).

I think in the future, I'll need to record things not only in sections of the song, but also in drum sections (snare and bass, then the toms, then the cymbals, etc.). This may work to my advantage though, because then I can put them on different channels for more control during mixing.

Sorry for the long post.

Well, here it is....

Only the drums (ouch):
http://members.cox.net/jpgpics/CavemanDrums.mp3

The whole song:
http://members.cox.net/jpgpics/CavemanJam.mp3
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  #25  
Old 02-12-2006
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Okay,
how did you mount the triggers to the board?
Are the can lids mounted directly to the board? If so, that's going to cause all sorts of crosstalk and false triggering. You have the mount the metal pieces on foam, so that they float.

If you attached the directly to the wood - you'll have to rebuild it.

What you need to do, is use a hot glue gun and glue a foam "ring" (just a foam strip glued around the edge of the metal) between the wood and the metal to act as an insulator/isolation so that they strikes don't pass from one pad to the next.

I would have made fewer pads on the unit, and made them bigger.


Tim
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