I'm thinking compressor - but which one?

[hazkell]

Hi,
Im NEW to this site and have been reading constaintly over the last week.
I think I know what the out come wiil be, but thought I'd ask.
Here's the project that I'm involved with.

Taking about 100 cassettes that were recorded from records about twelve years ago.
Objective- convert to CD then eventually mp3s.

I need a way to control the tascam out-puts to a PTs setup.
1. compressor?
2. limiter?
3. more Karma?
4. more beer?
5. 1 - 4?

Also before, during and after the cassette project, whatever unit I get will be used for recording acousic/electric bass for the next few months.
I have read that the RNC is a NO- GO for BASS guitar!
Yes or no ?

Price range - best for the least !
ALL information is welcome.

I'm ready to buy - NOWWWWWWWWWWW
thanks, hazkell

This is a GREAT SITE - glad you found me!

[tourettes5139]

Nah, I'd say the the RNC does just fine on bass. It is the RNC's weakest point, but I have found it to be just fine. I even like how it sounds on the bass.

[Reggie]

Why not use the volume knob on the Tascam to control the level.
If you are wanting to maximize the volume, just wait and do that once you have transferred to Pro'STools. I wouldn't process on the way in unless you get something really nice.....mmm....Cranesong...
You will be pissed if you spend all that time transferring only to decide later that you don't like what the compressor did to the sound.


BTW: I believe the thing with the RNC vs bass is to not use ultra-fast attack and release settings.

[FALKEN]

I would look into a DBX 166XL. It's got a gate (with built in expander) so you can keep the hiss down in the silent parts. It's also got a limiter so you don't overshoot the converters. It also sounds good on bass. The limiter is helpful there. If you have some extra cash, you might want to get the version with the upgraded limiter (1066 I believe), but I haven't heard it.

[hazkell]

Well, after reading more info and checking ebays prices, I have noticed that some people most definetly get caught in the 'fever'.
I also notice that some are really into paying as much as or more for a 'used compressor' w/o a warrenty or manual, but could have boughten a BRAND NEW unit (same model #and everything) for less.
They only have to let their fingers do the walking / talking.

So here's the deal.
The project date has been set back a week because of needing a compressor.
I can buy a NEW DBX 166XL for $199.00 to my front door.
Is that too much or do I just wait and buy used and save #40.00- $60.00?

That is the question!
I'm not familiar with either the 166x,166xl or 1066.
The main thing right now is to get these 100 + onto CDs before summer is over.

Wanting and needing to keep the transfer as transparent as possible.
They are cassettes, so wanting the best gain sturcture at the front end is "very important to me'.

I know that you can't pollish a turd but I can knock some of the chunks off!

This will become part of my portfolo at some point.
I've only got a zillion scratches and pops to deal with first.

Is the DBX 166XL or 1066 the way to go on this one?
Is $199.00 (166XL) to my front door to much for this price?
I am most definately tired of looking and reading.

thanks, hazkell

[Reggie]

I really think you should rethink using a compressor and just do a straight transfer. I just don't follow your logic. I gather from your post that you don't really know much about compressors, so I can only imagine how you will have it setup when you do your transfers. But it's your time and money, so whatever.

[RickW]

I honestly don't understand the need for a compressor either. You can control the amount of input to the PC with software...whether it's your recording software or the windows volume control. If you're using a MAC, it must have some sort of volume control on there.

If your cassettes are playing with the meters in the red, I don't think there's much you can do about that unless there's a playback level pot on the cassette player (which I doubt...there's usually only a record level pot).

If you think the compressor will be your answer, then that's what you should do. I just hate to think you may be opening a big can of worms needlessly. My .02

[soundchaser59]

Originally Posted by Reggie

I really think you should rethink using a compressor and just do a straight transfer. I just don't follow your logic. I gather from your post that you don't really know much about compressors, so I can only imagine how you will have it setup when you do your transfers. But it's your time and money, so whatever.

I agree with Reggie.......why do you think you need to use a compressor for this task?? If the tapes were made with decent levels and no distortion in the first place, and they sound good played the way they are, then do a straight transfer and dont mess with the dynamics at all.

[Stefan Elmblad]

Compressing audio going from cassette to CD is just stupid and nothing else. Since CD has wider dynamic range, there's no need to compress. All you do it push up the hiss.

If you wanna control volume, turn the input knob on recorder, or get one that has a knob.

[FALKEN]

Originally Posted by hazkell

The main thing right now is to get these 100 + onto CDs before summer is over.

Wanting and needing to keep the transfer as transparent as possible.
They are cassettes, so wanting the best gain sturcture at the front end is "very important to me'.

skip the compressor and just start transferring them.

[hazkell]

I got to spend most of the day on my project.
Set levels by riding the tascam out put- no problem ! never was! never will be!
Cleaned and degausssed the tape head.
Cleaned the pinch roller.
Packed the tape!
The first two songs recorded fine.
The third song recorded good up untill about thirty seconds from the end.
A couple of loud low frequincy drum beats pined my PTs meters in the RED!
I KNEW THAT WOULD HAPPEN SOONER OR LATER!!

THIS IS WHY I AM TRYING TO FIND A TRANSPARENT COMPRESSOR / LIMITER!!

I'm not about to sit and try to ride faders on over 100 tapes.
That is hit and miss at best!

Each tape has about ten to twelve songs on it.
Some dynamics and speacial effects.

The LIMITER is for the cassettes
The COMPRESSOR is for recording bass guitar after the CD project.
I probably wasn't all that clear- read the first post again.

Thanks FAULKER for the DBX info.
I have a bid for a 1066 unit on eBay as I write this.
If it doesn't come through, I'll just probably buy a NEW 166XL.

Thanks everyone fo your comments.

I'll be back in a few days after I've had a chance to analize it and a few beers.
We'll find out if I'm just stupid or extra stupid!

We'll put this theory on a flag or in a coffin.
I'll be 100% upfront - DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME KIDS! AND BE SURE TO TUNE BACK IN LATER!
hazkell

[60's guy]

Originally Posted by Reggie

I really think you should rethink using a compressor and just do a straight transfer. I just don't follow your logic. I gather from your post that you don't really know much about compressors, so I can only imagine how you will have it setup when you do your transfers. But it's your time and money, so whatever.

Couldn't have said it better myself. Less beer or karma works.

Straight transfer to DAW or PC from tape is your best option. Why introduce more compression than what the inherent compression of the original tapes have to offer? Limiting is altogether an area of discussion that I'll refrain from commentary because my knowledge of limiting is.....limited. Gotta study up and experiment with that stuff I guess.

[Rodger Hartlett]

the dynamic range of tape is less than your PT digital setup. that's why you should not need a compressor. they will do more damage than goodness in this context.
find the loudest point on your tracks and set your levels from there.

[treymonfauntre]

i'd set your volume at a safe level and then let whatever kind of limiter plugin pro tools has do the rest of the work. keep your monitors low so nothing blows up on you.

[Reggie]

I don't know why I keep wasting my breath, but you don't have to get the PT meters even close to the red when doing the transfer. You can bump them up in level once they are recorded without doing damage. It would take like 10 extra seconds to do. The deterioration of adding an OK compressor into the signal chain is not worth it. A cassette can only hold so much volume on it, so it shouldn't be too hard to find that maximum and then keep your peaks -6 below that in PT if you want to be safe.
On second thought, these tapes may sound like crap anyway, so compress away I guess.

[firby]

Yeah man, If it was originally on LP then you put it on cassette the signal is already been compressed at the studio. Furthermore if you hit the cassette pretty hard then it got analog tape compression as well. Once you open those files in a wave editor (which you will need to remove the clicks and pops) you will see that there is not alot of dynamic change in the tracks depending on how new the records are there may only be about 9 dB of change in the material. If you want o make the material sound better some would suggest you use a really good expander at this point.

I am a dj and I do this thing all of the time. Record a song into you wave editor use the find peak function it will show you the loudest part of the track. You can then determine the dB change and move the fader in the software a little bit to compensate. If you record it too hot the sound will suck. Also if you compress music with a DBX that was originally compressed with a manley or a cranesong it will also suck. Then your CDs wont sound good and your MP3s will really really really suck.