powered Crate moniter dead---need crossover help!

[jwgeetar]

hey all, my Crate APM75 powered PA moniter died. About 6 years old, i tried everything to get it going but somethings blown. Instead of fixing the power amp side, i just want to make it a regular speaker & horn moniter.

Ok, my speaker tech here said he could do that by installing a passive crossover in it for $40. Sooo, my question is---how hard is it to install my own crossover in it? and which one do i need for this "particular" model?

Anybody familiar with this? thanks yall.....jw

[Mindcore]

There are more knowledgable then me, but I can give you the basics.

Installing a passive crossover is very easy, its just a small box that you'll screw to the inside somewhere.

I did a quick search, so you should confirm the settings, but it looks like the crossover is set to 2.5khz so you would need a crossover that either meets that, or is adjustable.

wire the woofer to the "low" side horn to the "high" side, and attached your input wires. Done like dinner.

HTH

[jwgeetar]

Originally Posted by Mindcore

There are more knowledgable then me, but I can give you the basics.

Installing a passive crossover is very easy, its just a small box that you'll screw to the inside somewhere.

I did a quick search, so you should confirm the settings, but it looks like the crossover is set to 2.5khz so you would need a crossover that either meets that, or is adjustable.

wire the woofer to the "low" side horn to the "high" side, and attached your input wires. Done like dinner.

HTH

thanks MC, that's what i'm looking for. Should i yank out the Amp part with the Eq and chunk that part?

[Mindcore]

Well, if it doesn't work, I can't see why you'd want to lug that extra weight around. Plus, if you have it out and sitting around, one day you might get tired of it and get it fixed. Sad, but its happened like that for me before.

The signal is not likely getting to the EQ, so it really serves no benefit.

[robin watson]

$40 to make and install a crossover sounds fair, since that's roughly what it'll cost to buy a crossover alone (see first link). If you're going to scrap the EQ, you may want to have at least some control of the HF unit (see second link).

1. http://images.google.co.jp/imgres?im...500_500.jpg&im

2. http://images.google.co.jp/imgres?im...l%3Dja%26lr%3D

Best scenario would surely be to just get the thing repaired, wouldn't it?

[jwgeetar]

yea, i really do hate hauling it around--big and bulky. i was aiming to make it another main speaker to replace my 15 year old Peavy speaker. THEN--- get a hot-spot moniter. i never liked hot-spots before but they have improved and they are light to carry and setup....

After seeing that $79 crossover robin, the $40 deal from my tech may have to do.......!

stay tuna----

[mshilarious]

You don't need to buy a $79 crossover, you can get a preassembled unit for $20 from Parts Express:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-142

If you build it using those parts, it's cheaper still.

Or you can save cash by using a 6dB design (half the parts), or go even cheaper and use electrolytic caps.

The most basic design (assuming 8 ohm drivers):

Into the tweeter:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=027-338

or for poly:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=027-426

Into the woofer:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-723

You might also need to pad the tweeter, as mentioned that can be done with a couple of resistors, but you'd have to know the right values, or spend more and buy an adjustable L-pad:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-250

Or for $1 total, a 6dB pad is probably a good guess, that would be this in series:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...rtnumber=017-4

And this in parallel:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...rtnumber=017-8

[jwgeetar]

Originally Posted by mshilarious

You don't need to buy a $79 crossover, you can get a preassembled unit for $20 from Parts Express:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-142

If you build it using those parts, it's cheaper still.

Or you can save cash by using a 6dB design (half the parts), or go even cheaper and use electrolytic caps.

The most basic design (assuming 8 ohm drivers):

Into the tweeter:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=027-338

or for poly:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=027-426

Into the woofer:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-723

You might also need to pad the tweeter, as mentioned that can be done with a couple of resistors, but you'd have to know the right values, or spend more and buy an adjustable L-pad:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-250

Or for $1 total, a 6dB pad is probably a good guess, that would be this in series:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...rtnumber=017-4

And this in parallel:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...rtnumber=017-8

thanks MS----

yea, i like that $20 one already done. are there instructions to it as to where to solder the wires to?

[mshilarious]

Originally Posted by jwgeetar

thanks MS----

yea, i like that $20 one already done. are there instructions to it as to where to solder the wires to?

I haven't used that exact model, but usually the points are labeled right on the PCB with "In", "T" for tweeter, "W" for woofer, or "Hi" and "Low", etc.

[jwgeetar]

ok, went to the electronics store and found this one: http://www.jwweir.com/crossover1.jpg

we talked it over there and the tech guy wasen't sure if it was for me or not.... can anybody tell me if this one will work? the specs are on the "box end" in the picture.

i'll have to think about the wiring/soldering order if it'll work.....

[mshilarious]

Originally Posted by jwgeetar

ok, went to the electronics store and found this one: http://www.jwweir.com/crossover1.jpg

we talked it over there and the tech guy wasen't sure if it was for me or not.... can anybody tell me if this one will work? the specs are on the "box end" in the picture.

i'll have to think about the wiring/soldering order if it'll work.....

That wattage rating looks lean. Unfortunately I can't see the voltage ratings on the caps, so I can't say for sure.