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shoping for Johns Manville today, could use some help
OK so i found a place in VT that sells Johns Manville insulation (no one i called seemed willing to help much with OC 703 at all). One thing i can say is when dealing with local suppliers, to try to not mention the noise reduction aspects of the stuff, it seems to confuse things if they don't know it for these uses already.
So anyway, i am going to run over and check it out today, and had some last minute clarifications i wanted to make: They didn;t seem to be aware of the "800 series" that i have seen posted about, has anyone esle bought this stuff that they can help define the model i should be looking for? Similiarly, if i am looking for a certian density/cubic foot, and am dealing with fiberglass "board" will i have pretty good luck getting good noise reduction if i have to wing it? i.e. if it looks like rigid and walks like rigid, will i have a good shot? Is mineral wool all pretty much the same stuff? I have seen good noise reduction there. last, has anyone had to buy the foil or paper backed rigid? if that is all I have available is it possible or reasonable to remove the backing to improve the noise reduction? PS i have read a ton on this, but info is all over the place, i want to be armed well when i go browsing today. I will update the "where to find" thread when i can verify that they have the good stuff for the 4 VT people on the boards. Daav |
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#2
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yeah you can't get Johns Manville without the foil. I just leave it on...and put it towards the wall. look here to find the weight and absorption coefficient you want...
http://www.bobgolds.com/AbsorptionCoefficients.htm I think I went with the 2" 814. For bass traps I built 15" airtight tubes. |
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#3
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Any info around here anywhere on the tubes you built? I haven't come across it yet. |
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#4
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Could you describe exactly the design of these "tubes", and by what principle they become low frequency absorbers, or where the design came from. I'd be interested in seeing this. And what do you mean by "airtight". Resistance absorption needs an exposed surface to the air in order to work at optimum. Yes, batt type insulation will absorb within a wall, but that is because of transmission of vibration into the airgap, which is .....well, filled with insulation. Membrane absorbers work by resistance to resonance vibration, which transforms mechanical energy into heat. TUBE TRAPS, which is a proprietary design whereby a wire frame is formed into a tube, and fiberglass or other absorption material is inserted on ONE HALF the tube, with a reflective face to the outside. When placed in a corner, the reflection from the corner is theoretically aborbed by the fiberglass facing the corner. This is actually broadband resistance absorption as the fiberlass is no more than an 1" thick. However, how do you make a tube shape made of wire, and exposed to the air, "airtight"? Thats preposterous. Thats why I asked how your "tubes" are constructed, and by what principle they become absorbers at low frequencies.fitZ
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alright breaks over, back on your heads! Last edited by RICK FITZPATRICK; 08-24-2005 at 10:08.. |
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#5
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My guess would be that they were built based on some bad internet advice.
learn first, build second is always the best route. |
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#6
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Now, I TRY to limit my suggestions to what I have researched to the point of satisfaction with its integrety. Still, I also try to include this DISCLAIMER usually. I AM NO EXPERT!!I've been "put in my place" so to speak, a few times by real experts, so I've learned not to overstep my bounds as to knowledge. Yea, I still guess once in a while, and extrapolate once in a while But if its wrong, I know I'll hear about it. The real data on acoustics and isolation can be found if you know where to look. One of the best sites around for truth in these matters is here...http://forum.studiotips.com/index.php fitZ ![]()
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alright breaks over, back on your heads! |
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#7
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no, I assure you that these things work. they're ingenius, and have even been discussed on this board. you get a fiberglass cylinder, and cut out a top and bottom using 3/4" MDF. you then glue the top and bottom using liquid nails and make the thing airtight. when the bass note is played, it increases the pressure in the room (in the corners, around the tube). so there is more pressure outside of the tube than inside of the tube. since these pressures want to equalize, the sound is "sucked" into the tube through the fiberglass. here are some links:
http://www.teresaudio.com/haven/traps/traps.html http://homerecording.com/bbs/showthr...diy+tube+traps I didn't use the blind decorations, I just stapled the fabric to the MDF in two layers. the reason for putting plastic over half of the tube is so that you do not end up with too much high frequency absorption from the sheer amount of fiberglass involved. Last edited by FALKEN; 08-24-2005 at 20:54.. |
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#8
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I bumped that thread because these things just look too easy (and portable) to make.
Anyone who has all sorts of fancy expertise review this stuff to second that it seems like a great idea? daav. |
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#9
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I think you should read this. http://forum.studiotips.com/viewtopi...ight=tube+trap At least in regards to these specs. http://www.asc-hifi.com/products/tt-technicals.htm Then compare to this http://forum.studiotips.com/viewtopic.php?t=536 At least you weren't "sucked".into this http://cgi.ebay.com/Studio-Acoustic-...QQcmdZViewItem fitZ ![]()
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alright breaks over, back on your heads! |
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#10
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whatever rick those links don't mean anything.
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#11
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Wish I could help you, Daav, but I'm pretty sure my supplier, McCormick Insulation Supply, only sells in PA and MD. |
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#12
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__________________
alright breaks over, back on your heads! |
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#13
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#14
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I got the idea from a local studio that uses them and said that they're great. tons of people use them. But what I really mean to say is.... I came here not knowing anything. I came here not believing the usefulness of acoustic treatment. I pleaded for proof! I decided to give it a go because I couldn't afford not to try it, if it really works that well. I settled on these bass traps, a few wall panels, a few gobos, and a few spot treaters on mic stands. I have experimented a little bit with them, and still have more to build, and more experiments to do. and I still don't know much. I do know my mixes got better. I also know that when I used the spot treaters, my vocals got a lot drier. so it wasn't all bull. I would like to know if these tube traps are bull or not. I would listen to anything you have to say because I do NOT know it all, or really much of anything at all about this topic. not as much as the other folks here. I am just starting out. But my opinion so far is that they are not bull, and these articles are not very convincing to the contrary. Anywayz, they're 3 feet tall and stackable so I have 6' of my 8' ceililngs filled..which is pretty good. I also didn't have to put any holes in the wall to mount them, and If I want to bring them in another room to record with they're totally portable. I haven't compared with the flat panel design, but I guess I could A/B it pretty easily, I've got them mounted on mic stands. Spend too much freaking time on this board instead of experimenting. Last edited by FALKEN; 08-25-2005 at 18:20.. |
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#15
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I made do with that and a few 1.5" versions and just used three layers, a bit of overkill at 4.5" but i was feeling impatient. Just for kicks i also got a 3 foot length of the pipe insulation, and tonight i built one of those tube traps. It is drying now, I hope this thing works as well as advertised, either way, like Falken mentions, it is a convientient package for some bass trapping, even if there is not magic physics at work. Daav |
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#16
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my question is, why would'nt these tubes work? what's so different in this tube idea and the more popular panel idea? |
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