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Old 03-10-2005
Mica Mica is offline
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Question Soundproofing a basement room

Bought a house.

One 10'x12' empty room in the basement. Cement floors. Cement foundation on two walls about 3.5 feet high. Ceiling height is 7.5'. Exposed studs on all walls and ceiling.

Master bedroom is directly above. Kids rooms are also above, but fairly removed.

I don't want to wake up my kids or piss off my wife. I'll just be recording with the acoustic guitar and my vocals. Might have a buddy in with the sax once in a while.

To soundproof this thing would it be sufficient to: Insulate the walls, tack something like "quietbarrier" onto the studs and then drywall over the barrier material?

Thanks
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Old 03-10-2005
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normally I would sugges two layers of gypsum board screwed into resillient channel plus insulating the space but your 7.5 foot ceiling height is already low. You might try some sort of height-saving between the joists treatment but that leaves the joists themselves as a flanking path.
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Old 03-11-2005
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Innovations is right. IF, you seriously want to increase the soundtransmission loss between the basement studio and the room above here is what you MUST do. Period. Increase the mass of the floor leaf above. This is done from BELOW, by ADDING 2 or more layers of drywall, BETWEEN the joists. Each layer must be sealed by caulking all joints and edges at the joists etc with resiliant caulk. GE, silicone II will work, or butyl rubber or acoustical caulk. The second layer can be held up with cleats if need be. But caulk every single joint and connection.
Second. Reroute or seperate any HVAC ducts that provide a flanking path to other rooms via ducts in the basement that are common to any other room. This mav be vary involved and beyond the scope of this reply to describe. Another thing is decoupling the ducting from the structural elements that support it by resiliant brackets or Risc clips. These are isolators designed for the application.
Third. Caulk every single pipe, wire, hole, crack, seam and anything else that penetrates the floor above your space. Even within the walls.
Fourth. Determine a method of choice for suspending a second drywall leaf from the joists above. This can be Resiliant Channel(RC-1), Risc isolator clips and hatchannel, or even suspended wood joists between the existing wood joists, although span, weight will illustrate it is not a good choice, although doable. However, BEFORE installing this method of suspension, determine what and where any risc clips must hang from the joists sides. Do this before the next step.
Fifth. Insulate with as much insulation to fill the joist cavity as full as possible, to the point that the insulation will dampen, not only the floor above, but the suspended drywall ceiling as well. Not an easy task if Resiliant channel is chosen. Although it beats angry wives in a heartbeat.
Sixth. Fasten TWO layers, 5/8" drywall to either meathod, although the success of Resiliant channel is determined by your attention to fastening detail to it. One screw through the drywall into a joist can negate a lot of time and money. I've heard it takes many more, by why tempt fate. Stagger all dryrock seams, and caulk each layer of seams before taping, and adding the next layer. Risc clips and hatchannel are more forgiving, although MUCH more expensive and time consuming. Also will improve the rating of the ceiling isolation compared to Resiliant Channel.
OK, Now, this ALL precludes enough budget to do everything below the ceiling correctly FIRST, as a resiliant suspended ceiling SHOULD hang BETWEEN walls that are also decoupled PRIOR to doing the ceiling. Although, it will still be better than NO suspended and increased MASS on the ceiling. If you choose to do the walls also, tell us, and we can tell you what and how for those too.
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Old 03-11-2005
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Thanks for the info

Thanks guys

Sounds like it will be a fairly involved process, but well worth the effort. Yes, I will be doing the walls too.
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Old 03-11-2005
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Fitz is explaining, in a nutshell, that the type of soundproofing you desire is very difficult to achieve. It requires a great deal of meticulousness, as any mistakes in your soundproofing diligence will nullify all your work. It also takes an enormous amount of time. Just think about the sheetrock cut to fit between your joists, caulking them and ensuring there is no air leakage along every seam. Ouch.

Realistically, you may want to try the $50 bill approach: send the family to the movies when you want to record loudly.
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Old 03-11-2005
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Do you really need it to be soundproof? Resilient channel, insulation, and double sheet rock should get it quiet enough you can play acoustic guitar and sing... Plan the sax stuff with the wife and kids.
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