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  #1  
Old 01-28-2004
Scinx Scinx is offline
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Question Snare drum generalizations needed

Looking to upgrade my cheap snare used for recording anything between softer indie and harder alt rock material. What are the major differences between the following (keeping in mind - how it affects the final recording)

Havings Vents or No Vents
Birch vs Maple
13x5 vs 14x6 vs 13x3

Thanks a bunch in advance
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  #2  
Old 01-28-2004
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maskedman72 maskedman72 is offline
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i beliveve the vents are for projection. i cant tell you by listening to a cd if it was a birch or maple kit used.
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Old 01-28-2004
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Most drummers don't have a (1) snare drum but several to choose from for different music and applications. I have only 7 and I usually bring three (3)with me to a recording session. I own a Yamaha custom birch absolute fitted with maple rims that is 5.5 or 6" x 14 and this is now my primary snare. I have a custom 9" x 14" 8 ply maple fitted with maple rims that I use when I want a deep sounding drum for heavy blues or rock. I have a 10 ply custom maple that has 45 degree bearing edges is 6" x 14" and is now fitted with cast rims and a groove block and I have it tuned VERY high for certain jazz pieces and for brushes (I usually keep this one on my kit to the left of my hi-hat). I have my old favorite 5'5" x 14" Slingerland mahogany snare that I play when I want a lighter warmer sound or for club dates where I will be playing softer. I have a 4" x 13" maple piccollo that I will use for effects. And I have a 6" x 14" Steel shell snare and a 5'5" x 14" bronze snare that I hardly ever use because they are never right for the type of music I play.
Maple and birch are very similar in sound quality if anything birch is a tad warmer. The depth of the shell is important to sound. A deeper snare will resonate more and give more of a tom sound as well as the snare sound (that's not always good,depends on the music, but when you want it, it's there for you).
Thickness of shell, quality of shell and bearing edges, tuning, the tension on the snare wires, choice of heads all have a major effect on the sound of the snare.
The reason that I don't like the metal snares is because I find the sound too harsh and sharply tinny on recordings. For some music they work.
I hope that is a little bit of help.
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Old 01-28-2004
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Thanks to both of you. I guess my thing is - Im not a drummer by trade - and thus having more than 1 snare isnt on my priority list. Im looking for something versatile. Id like to be able to get the sound in "The Way We Get By" by Spoon. I want something that can cut thru but not pierce thru, something that has warmth - but isnt thick and distant. Most important - just be versatile.
On a seperate note - will any big difference be found between an inch..say a 6x14 vs a 5x14?
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Old 01-29-2004
tmix tmix is offline
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Rimshot has given good advice.

I will add that IF you want ONE versatile snare I would go with a maple 14 x 5 - 6 deep snare.

The shallower the snare is, the faster the bottom head and snares respond to a hit. a shallow snare has a fast snap and responds well to light ghost notes. The deeper you go the shell effects the sound more giving it that wonderful tone of whatever it is made of. The trade off is the snares respond slower and it takes a little more smack to activate them. Think of the difference of a big Ballad Country/Rock snare and a pop of a disco/dance snare. A good depth for variety is 5 1/2 inches plus or minus a little.

But Like Rimshot, I am on a quest to own 1 of everything. It makes a lot of difference in the recorded sound and perception of the drum kit, just switching out the snare.

I generally tell most people to avoid piccolo snares (under 4 inches) because they are very difficult to record well.

Drum diameter is a totally other issue I won't get into.

Tom
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Old 01-29-2004
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Thanks a lot guys!
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  #7  
Old 01-31-2004
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Is it better to have a vent, many vents, or no vents for recording purposes. From my understanding - vents increase volume which is something - to me - seems geared towards live performance. Also - what does a 45 degree bearing edge do any better than a normal edge?
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Old 01-31-2004
fldrummer fldrummer is offline
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Here's a chart to give you an idea on the wood http://www.dwdrums.com/pages/snrspec.html




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  #9  
Old 01-31-2004
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A 45 degree bearing edge gives the head less contact with the shell. (Think of a pointed rooftop)
This causes the head to resonate more, and you typically get a "better" sound out of the drum. It all depends on what sound you're going for.
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  #10  
Old 01-31-2004
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So what kind of sound does the 45 degree bearing edge give - for what type of styles is it preferable. For what styles is it not?
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Old 02-01-2004
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Quote:
Originally posted by Scinx
So what kind of sound does the 45 degree bearing edge give - for what type of styles is it preferable. For what styles is it not?
It gives you a less dampened more sensitive snare drum. It will emphasize all of the subtle grace notes and delicate touches that you may make. It is not really that neccessary for a brutish player that only wants to wallup a heavy downbeat. It is best for players that want a variety of different tones off of their drums. Most people would say that it is best for jazz drumming (which it is) but graceful and rudimentary drumming is not limited to just jazz drummers. For everyone from orchestra pit drummers to skilled technical rock drummers that demand variety and sensitivity from their drums have opted for a 45 degree bearing edge.

To answer your question about vents. I personally prefer drums that have vents. When there are no vents, the drum sounds choked to my ears and it doesn't allow for a natural resonance to happen. The air that is initially moved by striking the head is trapped and it's like trying to sing into a drinking glass that you have covering your mouth. Some people like that sound, but then, some people like the sound of Lars' snare on St. Anger.
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  #12  
Old 02-01-2004
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Very very well said Rim. Thanks! I think Im all set now.
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Old 02-04-2004
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Quote:
some people like the sound of Lars' snare on St. Anger.
My nose started bleeding, the roof in my room caved in and my dog got hit by a car when I read that.
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  #14  
Old 02-04-2004
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As stated above, a quality 5x14 maple snare is going to be your best shot in terms of versatility. When it comes to vents (talking about OCDP style vents of an 1" +), if your main purpose is recording, I'd advise against it. Vents (probably) aren't going to improve your sound, will certainly detract from the versatility of the drum (you'll basically be getting one type of sound), and will result in a lot of bleed.
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Old 02-05-2004
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Hey Rim, is that snare a Anton FIg model?
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Old 02-05-2004
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jblount
Hey Rim, is that snare a Anton FIg model?
No, actually it's just the standard birch custom absolute with a stain finish on the shell. It came with the cast rims and I added the maple rims and used the cast rims on another snare. It sounds great. I realy like the Anton Fg model I believe that one is a 7" deep shell though so it's deeper than my Yammy.
I got mine at a real slow day a GC when the salesmen were real hungry and I paid only $225 for it. The Anton Fig would have been another $100 and they wouldn't budge on the price , but I'm happy with what I got. I also have the real deep maple shell snare that I put together with maple rims that gives me a similar sound.
When it comes to drums, I have a REALLY bad case of G.A.S. so I'll probably eventualy get the Anton Fig model too.
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  #17  
Old 02-07-2004
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you know who spoon is??? i love spoon. everything hits at once is absolutely brilliant.
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  #18  
Old 02-09-2004
Scinx Scinx is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fox
Vents (probably) aren't going to improve your sound, will certainly detract from the versatility of the drum (you'll basically be getting one type of sound), and will result in a lot of bleed.
How does it result in less versatility? Does anyone share this sentiment
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Old 02-09-2004
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With large vents in your snare, the sound that you will be able to get will be limited to a drier sound. I don't think it's possible to get a deeper, darker sound, a sound with more 'thud', or a warmer sound. You can, however, achieve some of the dryness and sensitivity of a vented drum from a drum without vents. One way of doing this would to use a thin reso head tuned up fairly high, and one of the evans snare heads that has small vents around the circumfrence of the head cranked up.
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Old 02-09-2004
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fox
With large vents in your snare, the sound that you will be able to get will be limited to a drier sound. I don't think it's possible to get a deeper, darker sound, a sound with more 'thud', or a warmer sound. You can, however, achieve some of the dryness and sensitivity of a vented drum from a drum without vents. One way of doing this would to use a thin reso head tuned up fairly high, and one of the evans snare heads that has small vents around the circumfrence of the head cranked up.
We're talking about a small vent, approxiately 1/4 inch with a vent grommet. The kind that have existed on most good drums for the last century. They sometimes hold the maker badge in place and allow for the moving air created by strikig the drum to go somewhere other than bouncing around inside the drum giving that "doINK" sound.
Recently it's become an option, because there are people that like the "doINK" sound.
I have seen one snare drum with very large (over 1" in diameter) about 2 or 3 vents cut through the shell. That one was rare, and I didn't like the sound at all. It kept the snare wires from responding. I believe we are talking about different things and at cross purposes.
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  #21  
Old 02-09-2004
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Red face

I was indeed, talking about "OCDP" style larger vents, and I apologize for any confusion generated. From Scinx's post I thought those were the vents he was discussing also, but perhaps I was mistaken.

IMHO the small, grommeted vents that you were talking about are a key element in a good snare design. :-)
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  #22  
Old 02-10-2004
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Thanks a lot for the clarification. I was speaking of the OCDP style vents. So I guess I will bypass that type of design
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