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  #1  
Old 10-17-2003
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spin glass by Johnson manville

Hey, I found this product by johnson manville called spinglass. Is it really as dense as 703 by owens corning. And is it aroud the same price $1.29 a square foot for 2 inch 2' by 4'. This is the price I was qouted by the sales rep. And are they really exactely 2 feet wide if so should I space my 2 by 4s at 24 3/4" apart on center?
This is not a double wall construction but the garage door opening will be sealed off in front of the steel door. Get rid of the steel door? Hmm. Then another wall will follow behind that. I've got floor plans in some software and will try and convert them.
The control room will be on the oppposite side the drums with a double wall construction.
Most of the dense stuff will be in and around the drum booth which will have a canopy whith a ceiling height of around 6 feet running all the way to the garages ceiling with a facade running around the opening which will be open to the rest of the room. The drum booth will be built in a corner.
I need help with finding insulation at a fair price in and around Los Angeles. The over all construction is in the works and any input would be appreciated.
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Old 10-20-2003
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OK.
First thing you need to do is check your local building codes to find out about stud spacing.

A general rule of thumb, in typical 2"x4" wood framing is that load bearing walls have a stud spacing of 16" o.c. Non-load bearing walls can have 24" stud spacing.

If you're planning on removing/replacing the steel garage door, there's most likely a heavy beam above it. That is a load bearing wall!
But the beam is carrying the load.
I'd stick with 16" spacing anyway.

I'm sure the pieces are exactly 2'x4'.
If you have 16" spacing, you can get 3 - 16" pieces out of the 48" dimension.
That'll give you 3 - 16"x24" pieces per sheet.
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Old 10-20-2003
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You should listen to Michael, not just because he plays an engineer on TV, but because he IS one in real life.

As far as the exact 24" dimensions, if you DO have 24" centers on some of your walls it's even better. The generally recommended practice on installing insulation in sound walls is to have the insulation touch the panels (bowed slightly) so that it damps the panel vibration, which reduces the amount of transmission thru the wall at its resonant frequency... Steve
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Old 10-23-2003
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Have you heard of spin glass. If so what kind of sound absorption rating does it have with low frequencies.

According to the Mike Shea's Building A Home Recording Studio on a Budget. He recommends using only double wall construction between the live room and the control room. Does he not care about my neighbors? What kind of isolation will it have from the dog barking , planes taking off, and the possible child playing nearby.

The construction he has planned in the book is from the outside in like this. First: 1" of stucco Second: 2" by 4" studs. This is what I have existing. Then He goes on. Third: 5/8" Drywall. For some strange reason he did it like this..... He then goes on to say. fourth: 2 by 4s attached to the drywall with fiber insulation fitted between the studs. Finally: Cloth of some sort attached to the studs possibly with 1/2" bead to hold it on.


Is the 703 fiber insulation more absorbent than the spinglass?

The stock peice of ridgid insulation is 2 feet by 4 feet. Is this material easy to cut?

The steel door is one of those rolling up kind. And I would like to get rid of it. Thanks, that will probably increase the square footage of the studio.
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Old 10-23-2003
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These are not the detailed plans. But, they'll give you an overall idea of what I am trying to achieve.
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Old 10-23-2003
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The wall plans that O'shea recommended was as follows. He doesn't even use double wall construction.
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Old 10-23-2003
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Question

ok, I have decided to go with 16" o.c. and cut the 703 up into 3 equal parts.

And also, I will leave the garage door there just in case I sell the house.
The tracks which take up the garage door will be removed. Now the door will be enclosed between the new walls. The door will be in the closed position for the duration of ownership.

But, I am wondering what effect the door will have inside the cavity. Is this going to produce a shuttering sound?( a vibration ) And will I hear it behind the wall.
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Old 10-24-2003
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casen,

I understand that your wall plans will be more effective if you eliminate the internal sheetrock layer. It sounds counter-intuitive, but the specs I've seen indicate that staggered stud construction without internal barrier is superior. Then, you may want to employ Resilient Channel to hang your internal layer of sheet rock. If done properly (no small feat) you will get incredible isolation.

BTW, cutting high density fiberglass is easy. Just get an electric knife (the kind dad used to use to cut the turkey) and it's like buttah.
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Old 10-24-2003
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Thanks Tod,

It only makes sense to do it that way to keep any transmission of sound waves from getting in or out. Unfortunately, I will have to remove all the existing drywall I have already put up.

Let this be a lesson. Never believe what the book tells you. At least a book that was poorly written.

Again that was "Small Budget Recording Studio from Scratch" by Mike Shea.

Thanks again.

I might end up posting another thread if I run into any problems.
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