I would recommend buying 19" effects racks. That way most rack mountable gear will fit nicely into them. :)
But seriously, I prefer ones with a slight slant, which lets you see the meters and settings more easily on the rack-mounted gear that is towards the bottom of the rack.
Wheels are good...
The general rule of thumb is to connect or disconnect mics with the phantom power turned off. Once they are connected you can turn the phantom back on.
I try to do that, but on occasion I forget. I've never damaged a mic yet, but you might as well try and develop good habits. No sense tempting...
I think you should try them on your voice and see which one you like better. No one here or anywhere else can predict the result with any certainty. Only by auditioning them will you get a real answer.
What you describe probably won't happen. Most programs, if you set the fader to make a move to a specific value at a specific time, it will always go to that value, even if you change the starting point value.
But sometimes you want to lower or raise the overall level of a track, while still...
It's not that people don't want to be helpful. It's just that you are probably at the stage where you know so little, that you aren't even able to formulate a meaningful question - or at least, one that could possibly be answered in a short space.
It's kind of like if I wrote to you and said...
I don't know anything about any of the gear you have.
But in general, if you are recording digitally and keep getting sharp intermittent clicks, it is usually a clocking problem, at least if you have two or more pieces of digital gear in the chain.
All pieces must run off of the same digital...
You ONLY need a vocal booth if:
1) You are having a real problem with outside noise getting into your recordings.
2) You need to record other things at the same time in the same room, and still want to preserve isolation.
If none of the above is true - DO NOT BUILD A VOCAL BOOTH.
Vocals...
That's the wonderful thing about audio. You can get a very well respected guy saying one thing, and then go find another well respected guy who will say just the opposite.
So while we all have folks we admire and trust, it still comes down to personal experience before you can make any...
The Sennheiser 600 series is a reasonably priced way to get into an excellent open cup design. They are more expensive than the closed headphones that were recommended earlier, but not ridiculously more expensive.
There are lots of other possibilities. You might like some of them better than the Oktavas - who would know other than you?
SM81's, AT4041's, and various small diaphram offerings from Studio Projects, Marshall, Rode, etc. are all possibilities.
I hate when advertisers give just plain wrong information in their product descriptions. Like describing small or mid-sized diaphragms mics as having large diaphragms.
I've seen SM7's advertised that way, and AT4033's as well.
The most important parts of the pop drum sound are the kick and snare. The overheads won't capture that much kick, so you will be relying on the close kick mic, and maybe a room mic if you are using one. So phase is not as much of an issue here.
What will be immediately noticeable (in terms of...
Don't be silly. That's what these forums are for... so people like me who know very little can feel good about knowing more than those who know even less. ;)
For isolation the Sennheiser HD280's are very good. But they can be a litle tight on the head when used for long sessions. For long term comfort, the Beyer 770's are excellent, although not quite as much isolation as the Sennheisers. (They also differ tonally - the Beyers are darker sounding.)...