Recent content by Fte

Hey, So, my flat-mate‘s father knows s.o. owning a machine shop. They want to look at the piece, or probably weld it back together again and re-bend it, at least. That would be very good news. If they can’t rebuilt it, or in case such process would be too expensive for a single tile, I would...

Nice, I imagine that could make it possible to try it with a 3D-print from plastic, since 1212 and 1214 share the same Cardridge architecture?

Well, to me the whole tape-sections electronics look flimsy manufactured aswell, which is not to much fun to repair. But there are several other small issues to it. I think it’s not possible to load a tape manually without the slider, so this should be the first step before doing the tiny stuff...

Yes, feels kind of corroded with some white blur…

Yes, it is indeed made from metal, very lightweight though, tin I assume.

Hello RFR and TalismanRich, Thanks for the suggestions, I will look for both opportunities nearby and meanwhile assemble the other stuff. In my area the Akai is very rare to find, and pricy as well. Also I had the idea of a 3D- scan and re-print of the slider, but I don‘t know if that’s a good...

Finally (for now) there is a little cable socket in the transport-PCB that is a little loose, you can move it around, but it’s not entirely off. Moore like a tooth that’s attempting to fall out soon. It’s the one that reads P25 on the attached pictures. It’s left hand in the area where the...

The mixer runs fine with some minor crackling on some knobs though. So far I tried to avoid contact-spray as much as I could (as I read it let’s the problem get worse over time). My next step will be the tape-section. It has some flaws that seem to be very common issues with the 1212 and 1214...

Hey Guys, thank you very much both for your advice !!☺️☺️ and for clearing things up! That‘s what I’ll be doing then, get it all together. Yes, I also have the 1212 manual and can see, it would really have been a royal long trip😂 Thanks for the tip of tolerance band separation and how to correct...

Dump question(sorry😅): Could I also read the rings of the resistor the other way round? The calculator says, this would be 130 ohms then. How do I know from wich side I have to read them?

Hello SweetBeats, thanks for your suggestion☺️ The unit was definitely opened before, which I could see missing screws here and there. also some liquid must have been spilled into the faderslots, and underneath, some of the metal-housing rusted. If the resistor is just a left pice from something...

Hey TalismanRich, Thank you very much☺️!! That helps aLot ok, I’ll go through the shematics. Do you know if there are also possible alternate names or synonymes I would have to look for, beside „200k“?

Ok, here it is. To me it seems to be something like, Red Black Black Orange Brown (?) Sorry for the blurry picture…

Hello Sweetbeats and TalismanRich, Thanks for your suggestions. Thanks TalismanRich for the colour code schematic. Would it be ok then to just leave it like that, and simply run the machine? Or could that lead to damage if this thing would - opposed to our assumption - be an original unit’s...

Yes, that’s what I thought, too. The problem is to find its original place again, and then solder it back in. I‘m afraid that, running the machine without this pice, may cause some damages.