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Thread: Acoustic treatment help!

  1. #21
    jimmys69's Avatar
    jimmys69 is offline What is that smell?
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    Quote Originally Posted by GIK Acoustics View Post
    Yes, Safe 'n' Sound will work. If you can on at least some of the panels, doubling them up to be 7" thick instead of 3.5" would be better for bass absorption. Safe n Sound is a bit light so, for thinner traps, the Roxul 80 would be a better choice, but for thicker panels, Safe n Sound would be best. (They will both work in either thickness though, just a matter of efficiency)
    Man, I have heard that less dense fiber material is best for thicker panels. But I have never quite heard an explanation as to why? Or maybe it just eluded my small brain. I have heard, that a corner trap is more efficient with a 4" rockwool face straddling the corner, backed with Kraft paper, and filled with fluffy pink stuff.

    Do you have any insight about these types of installations Alex? And is the benefit of adding the fluffy and paper back, really worth it in the real world, as far as low end control?

    I have great results from the free advice I have received from you and other well 'acoustically' educated members in these forums. I feel I owe you at least a beer or a slab of steak for your gratuitous sharing of knowledge in these forums. Can't thank you enough actually.....
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  2. #22
    nomadx is offline Jiminy Crickett
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    Quote Originally Posted by GIK Acoustics View Post
    Yes, Safe 'n' Sound will work. If you can on at least some of the panels, doubling them up to be 7" thick instead of 3.5" would be better for bass absorption. Safe n Sound is a bit light so, for thinner traps, the Roxul 80 would be a better choice, but for thicker panels, Safe n Sound would be best. (They will both work in either thickness though, just a matter of efficiency)
    I really appreciate your guidance, Alex. You seem to be well regarded in the forum and very helpful.

    I purchased (24) 4'x2'x3" sheets of the safe n sound. Would it be better to make a flat 7" thick trap to straddle the corners or build a superchunk for them? Also, should I make a couple of the wall traps 6" thick and play with their position in the setup or would it be better to make them all 3" and add a 3" cloud above the mixing position? I know it's hard to know what's best without getting extremely scientific; I'm just trying to get a plan. Thanks.
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  3. #23
    nomadx is offline Jiminy Crickett
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    After quite a bit of reading, I've decided to go with superchunks in the three corners. I've got a long wall on my left side and a short one on my right. For this reason, one of the first reflection panels will be free-standing on the right to match the one hanging on the wall to my left. Do I need to provide backing on the free-standing one to mimic a wall?
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  4. #24
    GIK Acoustics is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by nomadx View Post
    After quite a bit of reading, I've decided to go with superchunks in the three corners. I've got a long wall on my left side and a short one on my right. For this reason, one of the first reflection panels will be free-standing on the right to match the one hanging on the wall to my left. Do I need to provide backing on the free-standing one to mimic a wall?
    Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. Safe n Sound will work well for superchunks.

    You do not need to add a back. You will get some extra low frequency absorption without one.

    Hope they turn out good!
    Alexander Reynolds
    GIK Acoustics USA | (770) 986 2789
    GIK Acoustics Europe | +44 (0) 20 7558 8976 (UK)

  5. #25
    nomadx is offline Jiminy Crickett
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    Thanks a lot, Alex. I was mainly concerned that left and right in the stereo field wouldn't sound the same.
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  6. #26
    GIK Acoustics is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by nomadx View Post
    Thanks a lot, Alex. I was mainly concerned that left and right in the stereo field wouldn't sound the same.
    Of course. Stereo information though is only really relevant for higher frequencies since lower frequencies are typically mixed mono in the first place. Symmetric bass absorption isn't as important as symmetric early reflection absorption IMO.
    Alexander Reynolds
    GIK Acoustics USA | (770) 986 2789
    GIK Acoustics Europe | +44 (0) 20 7558 8976 (UK)

  7. #27
    nomadx is offline Jiminy Crickett
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    Thanks, again. Another question before I get started. How far above my head should a cloud sit?
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  8. #28
    GIK Acoustics is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by nomadx View Post
    Thanks, again. Another question before I get started. How far above my head should a cloud sit?
    Again, the further it is from a boundary, the lower in frequency it will absorb. So a good foot off the ceiling would give great results. Its not required though. And it should really relate to the room height, not the height of your head.
    Alexander Reynolds
    GIK Acoustics USA | (770) 986 2789
    GIK Acoustics Europe | +44 (0) 20 7558 8976 (UK)

  9. #29
    nomadx is offline Jiminy Crickett
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    I have a dilemma. Doing some measuring; how will I put a cloud here? Is there another effective way to deal with the space above me. I'll be scooting away from the wall in front of me a little bit to make room for the chunks; which leads me to my second question... what's the best way to superchunk the corner where the window is setting? Thanks, everyone.
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  10. #30
    nomadx is offline Jiminy Crickett
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    I could fit a cloud here, but I would be hitting my head a lot. Best practice?
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