Isolating a new basement studio

JeffLancaster

New member
Wow, I can't believe it's been over eight years since I've posted anything on this site! Coincides with the time when I was last actively working on and in my own home studio, but that was two houses and a lot of life ago. I learned a lot about what to do and what not to do from building that studio as well as reading this forum and other resources but there is always plenty more to learn. Over the past couple weeks I've been reading threads on here and brushing up on the old familiar concepts - feels so good to be immersed in all this again and it's cool that I even recognize many of the posters still on here from so many years ago!

Anyway, I purchased a new home about a year and a half ago and have slowly been working on getting the place fixed up. I'm finally at the point where I can start on my next studio project and would like to run my isolation plan by you all for feedback.

First of all, to give you an idea of what I want to accomplish, I am converting a section of the basement into a single room for practicing, tracking and mixing, mainly my own music which is largely acoustic guitar, vocals, bass, and occasional electric guitar. I use midi programming for adding drum samples and electronic instruments so I'm not worried about a space isolated to the extreme for playing/recording drums or loud bands. What I do want is to keep the room quiet enough for recording purposes and to not disturb the other occupants of the house if I choose to play guitar, sing, mix, and/or listen to music in the room at late hours, etc. I know this is fully possible because when I built my last studio about a decade ago I succeeded in meeting these requirements even though I made some mistakes. For example, where I thought I was building a double wall I inadvertently built a "three-leaf" system in one section. I learned about the problem with that after I was done, but the room performed the way I needed it to anyway so no big deal. As a matter of fact, I once "tested" my old studio by putting on a Metallica CD at 90 db at 3AM, shutting the doors and walking around the house, - I couldn't hear it anywhere except in the adjacent rec-room and only then by putting my ear to the wall. In the kitchen which was directly overhead, the only noise that could be heard was the refrigerator humming! At this point though, I'm starting with a fresh space, more knowledge, and the opportunity to do things even better.

So, here is a rough floor plan of what I have to work with now:

basement_small.jpg

The current size of the room in question is 12'4" x 14'7" with a 7'2" ceiling height. The west wall of this room was added shortly after I moved in to partition the bigger room into two smaller ones so now we have a family room with fireplace on the other side of that wall with room for the studio which must be accessed by going through my office. The west wall was framed in under a support beam, the width of which goes another three and a half inches into the studio side of the room (portrayed by the dotted line in the diagram). On the family room side of the wall I used 5/8" firecode drywall to make the wall flush with the beam. I would've liked to add a second layer of drywall over that but really didn't have the space due to where the doorway entered the room from the hall. The south studio wall currently has an opening into a small room with a wooden "countertop" (this apparently used to be used as a bar with access from the small hallway which runs between the studio and the office). There is also a small bathroom off that hallway between the studio and office. That south wall is currently a mismash of plaster/lath and drywall construction which I plan to redo as a I will outline. The north and east walls are the outside basement walls which are currently covered with furring strips and 1" polystyrene thermal insulation, then finished with 1/2" drywall. The ceiling is 1/2" drywall attached to the joists above with furring strips in between. There is no insulation or anything between the ceiling and the floor up above and I have no idea why the drywall was attached to furring strips as it seems like that just made the ceiling an inch lower, but that ceiling is probably my biggest isolation need as there is a bedroom with teenagers directly above and when they are playing video games on their computer up there I can hear the noise coming through the floor/ceiling. I also want to get good isolation between the studio and family room. I'm not as concerned about isolating noise from traveling over to my adjacent office area but obviously need to keep sound contained because I realize that once it escapes to ANY adjacent area it will just continue to travel from there...

In my next few posts I will attach some pictures and then my proposed design ideas...
 
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So here is what I'm thinking at the moment:

On the west end, I figure I'll frame in a second wall, just inside the new one under the existing beam, but isolated from the beam with some sort of rubber hanger (I'm pretty sure I saw something like that advertised - need to find it again). I will add resilient clips and channel above along the inside of the beam to make a fully isolated assembly from the family room wall and beam.

On the south wall, I will remove all the existing plaster/lathe and drywall. I will frame in the opening between the studio and the "bar" and then add resilient clips/channels all along this wall. I will also add insulation in both the west and south walls.

On the north and east walls I think I will leave the current drywall in place. My thinking is that with the stiff concrete basement walls I don't need to add resilient hangers on those walls and can just start adding material over what is already there. I will attach 5/8" drywall to the resilient channels and isolated south and west walls and then all four walls will next get a layer of 7/16" osb. Finally, I will add a final layer of 5/8" drywall to all four walls. I MAY add green glue or QuietGlue between the OSB and final layer of drywall (but that's extra expense and may be overkill - curious about your opinions on that). By the way, the reason I want to use OSB for my middle layer of material is so that I can later attach things easily to the walls (such as absorbers, etc) using screws, without compromising the integrity of the soundproofing.

For the ceiling: I plan to remove the existing drywall and furring strips, add insulation between the joists, put up resiliant clips and channels, and then attach two layers of 5/8" drywall with green glue or QuietGlue in between.

The opening to the hallway will get a heavy sealed door, either a solid core door with weatherstripping or a heavy-mass homebuilt door. I will also replace the hollow door between the office and hallway with a second solid core, weatherstripped door.

Anyhow, these are my initial thoughts I wanted to share and I would love feedback. I also have a lot of other ideas about wiring, hvac, room treatment, etc., which I'd love to discuss, but will leave it at this for the time being. What do y'all think?
 
Sounds like you've thought it out well. Too bad you had to cut the basement room in half, though, as it's going to be a small tightly sealed room when you're done. You'll definitely want to think about heat and venitilation options.
 
Sounds like you've thought it out well. Too bad you had to cut the basement room in half, though, as it's going to be a small tightly sealed room when you're done. You'll definitely want to think about heat and venitilation options.

Totally. My last studio was even smaller and even though it was in the basement and generally cool, after working in there with the equipment on for a while it would get seriously hot! With no HVAC system in it, the only option I had was to quit working while I opened the doors and ran a fan for a while to try to exchange the air with fresh air from the adjacent room, and it still never cooled down very well. This time I hope to do better.

In this room, there is no connection to the house central heat ductwork, which is both good and bad. Good, because I don't have to worry about noise traveling to adjacent rooms through the ducts, but bad because I still need to get fresh air and temperature control in there somehow. But in my experience, the heating/cooling needs in the studio are not usually in sync with the rest of the house anyway, so having a dedicated system is probably best.

Of course, this is a DIY project and cost is an issue so I need to keep the solution as simple as possible. What I plan to do is use a portable air conditioning unit with built in heater and de-humidifier, such as the following:

Whynter 14,000 BTU Portable Air Conditioner with Dehumidifier, Heat and Remote-ARC-14SH - The Home Depot

I plan to use a dual hose system, because with a tightly sealed room, a single hose system will cause a de-pressurization effect in the room. Thye dual-hose system brings it's own fresh air in from the outside. Of course these units are designed to vent to the outside through a window by using a supplied "window kit" but for my purpose I'll have to do something a little more fancy. Take a look at the following sketch:

HVAC profile.jpg

The idea here is to build a "box" around the small window at the top of the east wall and attach the intake and exhaust hoses to the bottom of the box. The front of the box will have a slanted, hinged panel (I figure I might as well incorporate a broadband absorber into the hinged panel while I'm at it because #1, it'll look cool, and #2, it should be a good place for one anyway ;) Opening the panel will allow me to get reach inside the box to install or remove an airtight "plug" over the actual window opening. Normally, the plug will be out, and the AC unit will be able to be used as needed, but when I'm doing sensitive recording or want to get loud in the room, etc. I can just shut down the unit, open the hinge and install the window plug. Obviously, that means the room may got hot or the air stale during a long recording session and I'll have to take a break to pull the plug and run the AC for a bit, but sometimes we make compromises in a home studio, eh?

Anyway, I'm figuring with this plan I'll probably make that East wall be the "back" wall (behind the mix position) and it'll end up looking something like this back there:

HVAC wall.jpg

The AC unit sits behind me with the hoses running up to the box and a broadband absorber centered up high in the back of the room on that hinged panel. You can also see in this picture how I would incorporate a superchunk bass trap on either side in the two back corners.

What'ya think? Thoughts? Reasons why this would or would not work? One thing I'm still mulling over is how to construct the box such that it doesn't compromise my wall construction. I'm thinking it's probably best if the box doesn't touch the ceiling, but not sure if that will be possible because of space restrictions. Wondering if I should attach the box framework outside the drywall or try to attach it to the concrete and then run the drywall around it (leaving a gap and caulking in between). Thoughts on the best way to put this together?
 
I think you've got the right idea jeff, a basement is a very good choice for a studio, I will look forward to seeing how this develops in time, keep us informed.
 
I'd check out that a/c unit thoroughly before buying it - how loud is it when running? Chances are you won't be able to use it when using mics for recording. It's overkill on BTU ratings - and the heat part has a caveat 'when outside temp is over 41F' (meaning its a heat pump rather than a true heater). I'd go for a less expensive (and smaller) portable a/c unit (you can get them for less than $300) and an electric baseboard heater - a 500 watt 4 ft unit will easily heat that room.
 
You're right about the AC unit, Mike. I'll shop carefully for the right one - that was just a representation. I'm gonna look for the quietest one I can find that has enough BTU rating to get the job done without spending more than I need, but still doubt if I'll run it while doing any recording. I'll just switch it on for a few minutes every once in a while to get some fresh air into the room and quickly cool it down if it's needed (it's a basement in Oregon, so the demand shouldn't be Too bad). And a separate heater isn't a bad idea either...
 
Yeah, I'd love it if I could separate myself from the AC/Heater. But the main unit is right outside my wall, the blower is right outside the other wall, and in the summer in NC, you HAVE to have the AC on most of the time. I miss your area of the country most of the time (from Lewiston, ID). Good luck, man! Sounds like you've got it mostly figured. If you're using green glue on the ceiling, possibly use it on the N & E walls where you've got the studs on concrete (think that was right). Couldn't hurt.
 
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