The very first thing is to discard rumours from fact. Even with the different electrical standards between the US and the UK, there is a common good practice system to follow.
Each outlet in your home, office or studio has a maximum capability in it's design. We're not really interested in the voltage, but the current in amps. In the comments above, plenty of people are using 1 outlet, perhaps with 20A maximum capability. What do you have that takes big amounts of power. Looking at my own studio - nothing! If you want to put it into perspective, each device you have will have a label that says 1.2A or perhaps 4.5A, but loads will be small percentages of an amp - like all those wall wart power supplies. Add them up and see how close you are to the maximum. If you building is wired properly, then when you approach the maximum the connectors and wiring can handle, the current is switched off by an old fashioned fuse, or a miniature circuit breaker, an RCD Ground leakage device or other gizmo.
As for those 4 and 6 way socket strips - use the ones that are physically strong and have a cable long enough to let them lay on the floor - never dangle a few inches off it! You can even daisy chain them - the usual advice is to never do this - but as long as you don't overload them, it's fine.
Have a think about what you are connecting - let's say you have a heater in the studio that takes 15A - using that one 10A outlet gives you 5 amps for everything else, which is fine if your load comes to say 19A, but that heater does NOT want to be in the end socket on that string of 4 way connectors - because some of them are cheap Chinese imports and use cable that doesn't have enough copper in it. It's not uncommon for these things to actually get hot, and the normally stiff pvc cable gets hot.
The responsible solution is to get a proper electrician to put you more outlets in. However, if you manage all the things that use power, you can organise things properly. Local code will set rules for the types of outlets and the circuit protection, but with proper planning most modern studios use very little power. It's heating and air conditioning that eat the power.
I always smile when Bands with PA systems arrive at my venue and ask for power - we have 125A, 63A, 32A, 16A and 13A supplies available - and many have big power distros for their amp racks. One recently had forgotten their distro and was having a panic. The rack had 6000W of amps in it - which on our mains voltage is about 25A - the 32A supply was a little further away, but a 13A outlet was very close. The big current demand comes from the big spike when you turn on, while the load when running even very loud is much, much lower. They ran the entire rack fro the 13A supply.
I'd advise simply having an add up of the current in Amps, or the Wattage on the label, if there is no Amp details - volts x amps = watts can be used to calculate this for most equipment. If your electrics are decent, then each outlet will be able to supply it's design figure - or at least the value on the breaker!
Last comment - surge protectors. The vast majority of them are total rubbish! Some are well designed and can stop voltage spikes. Some, like the one I bought as an experiment were a one-shot device. The protection worked once, and then it had no effect. My voltage here is steady and pretty clean and I do not see a need for proper protection. Do you have a need for this? Dirty mains from arc welders next door? That kind of thing?
Ideally cable lengths should be physically sensible for the room - so no coils of extra length coiled up, creating heat and potentially melting, no strips with 5A cable carrying 10A or more - that kind of thing. Well made and looked after temporary cabling is not dangerous. They get dangerous when abused, overloaded, squashed with heavy flight cases, slit with sharp edges, and being under tension.