DIY Analog Mixing Console

Hi again Frederic.
Hope I'm not getting ahead of myself here but what are your plans for the power supply? Seems like a limit to number of channels would have to be determined beforehand to spec out max power supply requirements. That is, unless the power supply(s) would also be modular sharing a common, over-built power transformer/rectifier assembly. Of course a single power supply could be built with more capacity than anyone would reasonably need. I think it would also be a good idea if the power supply were in a separate enclosure for heat and electrical noise (RF) reasons.

I've worked electronics (calibration, fiber optics, Laser, etc) for Uncle Sam for the last 25 years. Glad to lend a hand if needed.

DD
 
The power supply I built is linear, using a a LM7815/LM7915, with six bypass bipolar power transformers EACH. That gave me a max of 18A for the +/-15v rails for a semiconductor standpoint, and the transformer I used was something massive I pulled out of the junkbox. It's a 40V center tapped transformer with 120V and 240V primaries, and can provide 30A. It's a huge, massive transformer. I designed it with overkill, with the intention of explaining much later how to calculate what power is actually necessary, then shaving off bypass transistors that aren't necessary. Or, one could leave them all and use smaller heatsinks. I'm not covering the power supply until the very end for this reason. Also, the power supply is designed to be seperately housed. You don't want a 35lb transformer near audio electronics. Same reason why many console manufactures make them rack mountable with long cables. We're going to do the same thing here.

When I built each of these modules, I tested them using an old industrial AT power supply, which is a switching power supply. The industrial switcher I had provided +12V at 25A, and unlike most computer power supplies it provided more than 500ma on the -12V feed - up to 5A actually - so for testing five years ago on the workbench, I found this acceptable. The 15V linear power supply coming later is a better choice. I'm not an engineer so making multiple power supplies ganged together is not within my skillset. I am good at making massive linear powersupplies with huge heat sinks, so those of you who have clues in this area are absolutely more than welcome to say "that sucks, here is a better design" and I certainly would not be offended in any way. As I attempted to say in my first post on this thread, I've built each of these modules, and tested them apart and together, but I've not built a massive 56 channel, 16 buss console. I'm sharing, because I thought this would be fun, a good learning experience for you guys and for me, as has happened already. You guys (and gals) are quick in finding my mistakes, which is wonderful.

Speaking of mistakes...

Ms. Hilarious is correct, the schematic software picked voltages on the caps for me, which I don't like either. I'll manually edit the pages and put the appropropriate values, after I finish the switch module. It will work "as-is" as that's how I've built the modules, but I would highly recommend no one buys anything for the first few modules until we get a little further down the "building block" line, so to speak. Should I say again this is for informational/learning only? And I offer no warranty? heh-heh.

L1 and L2 don't have part numbers. They are two donut-shaped ferrule beads with three turns of 16 gauge insulated, stranded wire spaced about 1/16" or so apart. They help with hum rejection on long XLR mic cables. They aren't critical if they aren't there. Just don't expect a 200' mic cable not to have a minimal amount of hum.

To invert the XLR connector you can use a DPDT switch. Slide, toggle, pushbutton, doesn't matter. The next module is the electronic, bouncless switching module, which you can also make a simplified version to do the XLR inversion, and have it digitally controlled. I'm presenting both schematics - mechanical switching and digital switching, in the next module.

As far as cost, about 5 years ago when I ran the bill of materials (BOM) on the "master schematic" I'm pulling and editing these building blocks out of, I hit about $8500 US in parts. This approximate price did not include things like knobs for the pots and faders or an enclosure... but it did include digitally controlled everything, as well as motorized faders for al of the input and buss channels (which are $35 each right there for something nice like Alps). Also, bulk quantities weren't taken into consideration either. Each resistor was priced out as if it was the only one, for example. That's when I dropped this project and started getting into other things.

Compressors - my inline design is not an SSL equivilent. Not even close. It's a simple, basic, inexpensive compessor which "does the job" well enough for most things, and fairly noise free. If you want to build the amazing SSL, here is a clone project that works extremely well:

http://www.gyraf.dk/gy_pd/ssl/ssl.htm

The SSL compressor design also is a balanced design - most mixers (including my design) accept balanced inputs and outputs, but through the "middle" of the console things aren't balanced. Analog SSL's absolutely are - so keep that in mind. My compressor is very basic, and intended to help out with the understanding that I'm balancing affordability with having one for each input channel. There is a reason why analog SSL's were expensive.

And there are going to be mistakes in some of the diagrams, and I'll apologize up front. I'm manually re-drawing these from my master, large format hybrid console design (analog audio path, digitally controlled), so it's a bit tedius, time consuming, and I have a lot of other stuff drawing my attention away from this. So before you buy anything, critique what I post and hollar if you're unsure. Better to be safe than sorry.

I really thought cutting and pasting from the master design to building blocks would be significantly easier... but alas it's not. The hardest part is not missing anything when removing all the digital control stuff, as well as making sure I don't miss anything when making blocks. It's very easy to say "I'll put that component on the compressor buliding block" then when it comes time to draw that in-line compressor, to forget that particular part. I think we'll have to go over all of them side by side when completed, and see what's missing, and what's duplicated.

Also keep in mind these are building blocks - like legos. If you think my comrpesser design sucks, by all means, surf the web and find another design, rework what I've done, or do something of your own design. It's AOK, and why building blocks are fun. You can re-order things, change one or two blocks around, add features and subtract features. If I posted the master schematic of my design, most people would just say "oh fook" and not solder a thing... it's big, unweildy, and very cramped and difficult to read without constantly zooming around.

Again, no warranty expressed or implied :D
 
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frederic said:
...but I would highly recommend no one buys anything for the first few modules until we get a little further down the "building block" line, so to speak. Should I say again this is for informational/learning only? And I offer no warranty? heh-heh.....



Oh no, I'm not looking to buy anything yet, but if I find the parts as you go, it will be easier to find them again latter.

As for the caps, I was already going to higher values, but mostly because the brands of caps I like don't always come in values that low.


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
Light said:
Oh no, I'm not looking to buy anything yet, but if I find the parts as you go, it will be easier to find them again latter.

Actually, it will be easier. I'll be providing down the road, a bill of materials iwth vendor, price, and part numbers :D

But if you do source parts ahead of time, try to use 5% tolerance parts. Perfection is less important than consistancy...
 
Light said:
As for the caps, I was already going to higher values, but mostly because the brands of caps I like don't always come in values that low.

You need to be a little careful about changing values. For example if you make C5 and C6 much bigger, you will start dumping audio frequencies to ground. C3 and C7 are a little big for my tastes, I wouldn't mind some subsonic filtering there, plus a smaller cap wouldn't have to be electro.

Anyway, the popular upgrade caps like Panasonic FC or Nichicon PW or HE come in nearly all sizes and most ratings down to 1uF; below that you'd want to use poly films, which you can get down to 100pF or so. Actually if you are fastidious, you could bypass the electros with 0.1uF polys too :)

Oh, one more thing, R2 and R3 should be 1% tolerance, and if you have a good multi, match them closely for each channel. It might be a good idea to match R5 and R7 too, although I'm a bit fuzzy on that.

Hey, while we're playing, how about variance impedance too? Maybe a step attenuator :) Input transformers? A selectable tube pre stage?

*slaps self in face*

OK, never mind I've recovered. Carry on! :o
 
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mshilarious said:
You need to be a little careful about changing values. For example if you make C5 and C6 much bigger, you will start dumping audio frequencies to ground. C3 and C7 are a little big for my tastes, I wouldn't mind some subsonic filtering there, plus a smaller cap wouldn't have to be electro.

Anyway, the popular upgrade caps like Panasonic FC or Nichicon PW or HE come in nearly all sizes and most ratings down to 1uF; below that you'd want to use poly films, which you can get down to 100pF or so. Actually if you are fastidious, you could bypass the electros with 0.1uF polys too :)

Oh, one more thing, R2 and R3 should be 1% tolerance, and if you have a good multi, match them closely for each channel. It might be a good idea to match R5 and R7 too, although I'm a bit fuzzy on that.


Let me rephrase that, a slightly higher VOLTAGE. I would want to change the capacitance.


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
At first thought frederic, I had dilusions of grandeur. A 32 channel mixer that I "built myself". Ha! After just building my computer iso cab, I have to admit, a "slap to the forehead" is due. I haven't got the time, or patience or frankly, the financial resources to take this on. But I have to say....this is VERY COOL frederic! You are a gentleman to take the time to do this. But for me...well, reality is only a visit to the shop away. :rolleyes: 30 or so projects in all stages of assembly are sitting everywhere. Too many irons in the fire already. Thanks anyway. As MS says...."carry on".
fitZ :)
 
2005.01.16 - Input Channel Switches

Yes, I forgot the mic phase switch on the earlier schematic, I'll update that in the near future and the schematics posted above will automatically update, as I'm saving the images on my web server, rather than uploading them to HRBBS for this very reason.

One of the features I wanted to design into each input channel, was a dual-fader system where as the mic/line would normally pass through the EQ and compressor and fader/pan to the main mixing busses, and the tape inputs would pass through a seperate fader/pan for listening, without wasting input channels for tape returns like many less expensive mixers today. Also, for the final mix, you'd want to "flip" the unused mic/line inputs off the main input channels, so the tape returns can pass through the EQ and compression modules.

Anyway, to do this, we need to have some switches, arranged like so:

switch.gif


Very basic stuff, but necessary to provide this feature. Personally, I hate mechanical switches because eventually their contacts rot and can inject static, noise and pops into the audio stream (not for a long time, but eventually). Everything mechanical breaks eventually. So, lets now go digital:



Bascially, the 74HC04 inverters with the 74C74 flip-flops provide a bouncless, toggle switch. Push the button once, and the outputs flip from high to low, or low to high. Push the button again, and the output reverses. The following 74C04's basically just light indicator LEDs so you know what mode your in.

These outputs drive the ADG333A from Analog Devices. If you're not familiar with this family of switches, they are sepecifically designed for digitally switching audio (and some of them now do video), are fairly inexpensive, and in the case of SPDT digital switching, are break-then-make which is important in audio.

Anyway, ADG333A is a $3 quad SPDT switch, so I ganged two of those as a DPDT switch, and we have a simple one chip-per channel count, using all the switches. I like chip frugality :D

Aside from having limited time to draw some of the coming building blocks (EQ and Compressor will be out in a few days or so), I was also waiting for confirmation that Analog will be flooding the market with the ADG333A again. They made a slew of them, then fell behind temporarily, but that looks like it's over with. I didn't want to recommend parts that you cannot get worldwide. My original design used something else and had a higher parts count, and colored the audio path "just a hair", and this one-chip solution is by far cheaper, and significantly better for the audio. So, it's now part of the design.

I did get my free samples last week, put this together, so what you see above is a tested design.

EQ and Compressor coming up!
 
Light said:
Cool! I like it. An "elegant" solution.

Thanks.

Digitally controlled analog is cool. Like above, replace switches with the digital bits, and replace pots with digitally controlled resistors, tie it all together to some addressing decoder chips, and write software on a PC (or dedicated processor, like arm, risc, whatever) then you can save, recall, and automate everything, yet still enjoy an expandable, upgradable analog console.
 
2006-01-18 - Compressor

I happen to like compressors in my input channels. If you do not, skip building this.

At the top right of the diagram is the input, and output which get wired to the earlier switch schematic, allowing you to bypass the compressor at a touch of a button. If you're building this for stand-alone use, then you'd need to wire in a DPDT bypass switch of your choosing.

Left to right....

The first TL072 buffers and provides some basic high frequency bypass.

The second TL072 inverts the output of the first one.

The third TL072 sums the regular output of the first TL072, with the inverted output of the second TL072, through diodes. This looks odd, but this assures the compressor is paying attention to both sides of the waveform, even if they are different levels, and works with the "release" control just under it.

The 4th TL072 provides the final buffering, following a capacitor and the "Attach" control.

The output of the 4th TL072 goes through a reverse log 5k pot, and a current limiting 1.5k resistor (which is labeled 500 in the schematic - that's a typo which I'll fix), which then drives a Silonex NSL-32SR3 OptoCoupler, which is about $4-5 street price. It's a high quality, low noise unit and is reasonably priced.

You'll notice that I used cheaper TL072 op amps throughout - that's because these op-amps are not in the audio chain. While audio passes through them, their output is never passed back to the console - all they do is control in a variety of ways the opto coupler which then varies it's resistance to ground, attenuating the signal based on how the controls are set. So, cheap wins!



Next... parametric EQ!
 
Very cool. I don't really understand timing circuits at all. I know that caps filter frequencies by imparting a phase shift; I assume that is a timing delay that can be exploited for other purposes. What's the formula for determining a time lag in msec? Got any good links?
 
Capacitors essentially store electricity. This is why we use them in power supplies... the ripply voltage passes over them and the capacitor stores some of that when the voltage is higher, and releases some of it when the voltage is lower, creating a smoother output. The bigger the cap, the more this concept works, and why power supplies often have massive caps.

In the compressor circuit, we're doing the same thing. By putting a resistor in series with a capacitor, we can control (i.e. slow down) the rate at which it "fills up". By putting a resistor in parallel, we can control how fast it drains. So these two concepts together allow us to build a compressor with attack, and decay controls, controlling how fast the capacitor fills up, and how fast it empties out - and the voltage measured at the capacitor is what controls the gain of the compressor, which provides the compression.

By changing these values, you can have all sorts of interesting slopes (if you were to graph the compressor's response) from linear, to wild!

Of course you were going to ask for links... I have them on my laptop.. next time I boot that up I'll post a few, no problem. They can be used for tuning this and many other circuits as well.
 
that's like the coolest thing ever. I am going to have to build a stereo outboard version of that. with "frederic" on the faceplate.
 
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gullfo said:
frederic - what app are you using for the schematics? orcad?

Yes, orcad 9 for windows. My original design (the digitally controlled, analog console) was done in orcad for dos, and I wasn't able to import for whatever reason. So I printed it out, and have been peeling off the digital bits so I can just present the analog part here as promised :D
 
thanks... yeah i spent several years working with it and a number of other schematic/simulator/pcb layout/etc... design tools when i was building high speed digital test electronics... just looked very familiar in its rendering...
 
Yeah! I haven't been able to export any of the schematics in anything but dxf which is useless to me.

So, I make the schematic full screen, hit printscreen, paste to pbrush.exe, then save as a gif as that seems to be the smallest with these diagrams.

It's fun I tell you!
 
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