building acoustics frames

with the functionality. I've put together desks before but never built anything myself so I just want to know if it will work, all the measurements and stuff
 
also would a saw like this be good for the job? after a bit of research my 3 years of wood tech lessons are vaguely coming back to me hahaa :)
 
okay thanks. I talked to my deign and technology teacher today and he said I should just go to ridgeons and I will find what I want quite cheaply. He also said that egg boxes are very effective at stopping sound from bouncing if I stick them on the wall, is that true?
 
I've been using this wood: Oriented Strand Board 3 (L)2440 x (W)1220 x (T)18mm, 5014957148673

With these screws: Turbo Ultra Screws - Countersunk | Screwfix.com (B&Q do these screws, but I can't find them on their website). You need to check the length of screws is correct for the thickness of wood you're using (you need to go a quarter of an inch into the wood beneath, I believe - I asked someone in store).

If you buy a sheet of wood from B&Q (the bigger stores) will do 15 cuts for free on their massive, wall-mounted circular saw, so you can get the long cuts done there in very straight lines.
 
I would just use dimensional pine. That directional fiber board stuff is full of formaldehyde.

I used cabinet-grade oak finish void-free plywood but have a table saw and cutoff saw and a bunch of other woodworking power and hand tools.

You may want to get a mitre box to go with that hand saw for straighter cuts.

Are you going to wrap the rockwool so the fabric covers just the wool and leaves the edges and sides of the frame exposed?
 
jonny deep said:
I've been using this wood: Oriented Strand Board 3 (L)2440 x (W)1220 x (T)18mm, 5014957148673

With these screws: Turbo Ultra Screws - Countersunk | Screwfix.com (B&Q do these screws, but I can't find them on their website). You need to check the length of screws is correct for the thickness of wood you're using (you need to go a quarter of an inch into the wood beneath, I believe - I asked someone in store).

If you buy a sheet of wood from B&Q (the bigger stores) will do 15 cuts for free on their massive, wall-mounted circular saw, so you can get the long cuts done there in very straight lines.
Click to expand...

thanks :)

c7sus said:
I would just use dimensional pine. That directional fiber board stuff is full of formaldehyde.

I used cabinet-grade oak finish void-free plywood but have a table saw and cutoff saw and a bunch of other woodworking power and hand tools.

You may want to get a mitre box to go with that hand saw for straighter cuts.

Are you going to wrap the rockwool so the fabric covers just the wool and leaves the edges and sides of the frame exposed?
Click to expand...

well I was planning on using the tools my dad has to cut the wood, non of them being electrical, and I was going to wrap the whole thing so the frame is not exposed because thats how I've seen every picture is and it looks like it gives it a smoother looking finish.
 
ollie99 said:
well I was planning on using the tools my dad has to cut the wood, non of them being electrical, and I was going to wrap the whole thing so the frame is not exposed because thats how I've seen every picture is and it looks like it gives it a smoother looking finish.
Click to expand...

I that case I would definitely go with pine or some other softwood other than the redwood. I suppose you will then be stapling the fabric to the back side of the frames. You may want to consider using some painters masking film across the back to keep the rockwool from flaking out of the back of the frame, although as long as you don't handle them much that shouldn't be much of a problem.
 
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