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Thread: Type of glass to use for booth "window"?

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    studiogenocide is offline Country Boy Gone Digital
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    Type of glass to use for booth "window"?

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    I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on the glass for the "window" into the recording booth. I am studying a 3/8" thick window glass @ 2' x 5'. I didn't know if plexiglass was better, and I cannot seem to find any info on it. Any help is appreciated!

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    deejaytrixx is offline Analog? What's that?
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    Quote Originally Posted by studiogenocide View Post
    I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on the glass for the "window" into the recording booth. I am studying a 3/8" thick window glass @ 2' x 5'. I didn't know if plexiglass was better, and I cannot seem to find any info on it. Any help is appreciated!
    Check Table 3 on this page
    http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Pla...oise-Reduction

    In my humble experience, 3/8" glass is really thick and heavy...You will have to put heavier headers to hold it in place...but you can achieve the same noise reduction with a piece of plexi which will be thinner and lighter in comparison at the same reduction thresholds.

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    DrumArtist23's Avatar
    DrumArtist23 is offline Senior Member
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    I am putting in a 3'hx6'w double plexi window in my studio. Did you use double stud build on your booth? If so, how wide is your air space between the two walls?

    Using the two window approach is not easy, especially when you try to do it on a budget, but you can pick up plexi at a much better price for the size required. I called a glass company in my home town to check costs of having them do the 3x6 in glass and to install it. They quoted me over $1K... Plexi can work, but you will want to make sure you dont get two sheets that are identical in thickness. (I don't know exactly why, but it is all over the boards here).

    Installing the plexi and keeping it free from damage is one tough thing. Just yesterday I installed 1 of the 3x6's and during the framing my drill slipped off the head of the screw and punched a hole in the now useless plexi. Just need to be careful. It also gets foggy with age, after scratches build up.

    Any other questions I can try to offer up some advice.

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    RICK FITZPATRICK's Avatar
    RICK FITZPATRICK is offline Been Here, Posted That
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    Here is the bottom line. The principle is called WEAK LINK SYNDROME. It has to do with the actual TRANSMISSION LOSS of the booth assemblies. Here is how it works.

    IF, you design booth ASSEMBLIES with a certain TRANSMISSION LOSS target, say 25db, it makes no sense to install a window assembly with a TL of 40. The floor, wall, cieling and door assemblys would allow sound to transmit at a lower energy than the window.

    Here is an example. If your booth was constructed the same as a STANDARD WALL assembly, it would make NO SENSE to install a window assembly with two planes of 1/2" glass. Or vise versa. It would make no sense to build a DOUBLE WALL.. 2 leaf booth, and then penetrate one wall assembly with a plane of 1/4" glass.
    Plexi can work, but you will want to make sure you dont get two sheets that are identical in thickness. (I don't know exactly why, but it is all over the boards here).
    BTW, forget plexiglass...unless your booth is shiethed with cardboard. The key to transmission loss is MASS. Better yet...decoupled Mass.

    This doesn't take into consideration flanking paths from venting ducts, door seals, decoupling from the floor etc. They all have a bearing on the overall transmission loss. BTW, same concept goes for the door.

    No one can tell you what will really meet your needs without knowing how your booth is constructed. Even the glass "decoupling" design will make a huge difference. And you can't plan that untill you know the weight of the proposed glass.

    Maybe if you give as some info on how your booth is built we might be able to suggest a viable solution.
    fitZ
    alright breaks over, back on your heads!

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    dementedchord is offline Psychotic State alumni ch
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    you must spread some yadayada...

    +1
    37.8% of all statistics are made up on the spot...

    hey give a guy some room... people are trying to evolve here... for crying out loud...

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    Rod Gervais is offline Force of Nature
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    Quote Originally Posted by deejaytrixx View Post
    Check Table 3 on this page
    http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Pla...oise-Reduction

    In my humble experience, 3/8" glass is really thick and heavy...You will have to put heavier headers to hold it in place...but you can achieve the same noise reduction with a piece of plexi which will be thinner and lighter in comparison at the same reduction thresholds.
    I am happy to inform you that your humble experience has brought you to a conclusion that is wrong.......

    Don't you wonder for even a second why they give you TL values for pexi up to an inch thick - but stop with glass at 1/4" ? You wern't even a wee bit curious about that?

    It's because glass out performs plexi hands down when you step into the rhelm of low frequency isolation.

    It is the fact that it is (as you said) "really thick and heavy" that makes it out perform plexi - low frequencies require mass - lots of mass - glass has that - plexi doesn't........

    To the original poster - if you have 2 layers of 5/8" drywall on each face of your wall assembly - then you should have your thinnest piece of glass (yes glass) a minimum of 1/2" thick annealed glass for side "A" and add 1/4" for side "B" - Thus a 1/2" flanked by a 3/4".

    You can step down to 3/8" flanked by 1/2" if you use laminated glass instead of annealed.


    Sincerely,

    Rod

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    formant74 is offline so.., what's going on?
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    Don't know if it really makes a difference, but with the spacing on the top and bottom being different between the two sheets so one or both are angled. I've seen pictures of the pro studios and wondered if it really helped.

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    studiogenocide is offline Country Boy Gone Digital
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    Okay- I know I am about to get chewed up here for having a symetrical room, but what I have is an 8 x 6 area. Nothing is up at this point except the interior wall portion which seperates the booth from the main room. I have done the best I can with what I have, so here goes: 2 x 4 walls all the way around with plain old insulation.

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    RICK FITZPATRICK's Avatar
    RICK FITZPATRICK is offline Been Here, Posted That
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    To the original poster - if you have 2 layers of 5/8" drywall on each face of your wall assembly - then you should have your thinnest piece of glass (yes glass) a minimum of 1/2" thick annealed glass for side "A" and add 1/4" for side "B" - Thus a 1/2" flanked by a 3/4".
    Wow, you heard it from the pro! Hey guys, this reply is from the "expert of experts". Rod is an engineer an author of " Home recording studio- how to build it like the pros"(buy it!!)
    http://www.amazon.com/Home-Recording.../dp/1598630342

    We're fortunate to have him as a member here. HEY ROD, long time no see!! Nice to see ya back!

    BTW rod, how thick would the glass have to be to equal an assembly with TWO layers of 5/8" drywall on each face of a DOUBLE WALL with an air gap of say 12"
    fitZ
    alright breaks over, back on your heads!

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    DrumArtist23's Avatar
    DrumArtist23 is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICK FITZPATRICK View Post
    :

    BTW rod, how thick would the glass have to be to equal an assembly with TWO layers of 5/8" drywall on each face of a DOUBLE WALL with an air gap of say 12"
    fitZ
    Relevant to my interests...

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