Yet another KRK Rokit thread..strange sounds...

[rgouette]

So, I've got a KRK Rokit 5 of this vintage(G1 I believe)


Pretty much every online post/video I've seen of the dreaded KRK Rokit noises is a whine, or crackling, or hum...etc

My Monitor is more horrible in nature..

It might work ok for a minute, then it emits a ear-piercing screech, followed by the woofer thumping in & out rapidly..
I can touch the woofer and that stops it..

I have the board out, and cannot see any goop of death, nor do I see any bulges on the caps..

Any recommendations as to what I can try/observe/read?

I have VOM, and o-scope available if needed, though I cannot find a schematic anywhere..
I'd greatly welcome any suggestions, as I sooo miss having these working properly..

Cheers,
Rich

ps. tonight, I decided I'd take a closer look at the boards, and hooked up power without an input, to see if it
behaved any differently than before.
I was amazed to hear no noises...then I realized I hadn't connected the ribbon cable from the input board, to the main board.
When I did that, and powered on, it then made the noises.
Does that mean that "input board" is bad?

Also, I notice that I can tap the enclosure pretty much anywhere, and it will start the noise..

 

[RFR]

So, I've got a KRK Rokit 5 of this vintage(G1 I believe)
View attachment 102112

Pretty much every online post/video I've seen of the dreaded KRK Rokit noises is a whine, or crackling, or hum...etc

My Monitor is more horrible in nature..

It might work ok for a minute, then it emits a ear-piercing screech, followed by the woofer thumping in & out rapidly..
I can touch the woofer and that stops it..

I have the board out, and cannot see any goop of death, nor do I see any bulges on the caps..

Any recommendations as to what I can try/observe/read?

I have VOM, and o-scope available if needed, though I cannot find a schematic anywhere..
I'd greatly welcome any suggestions, as I sooo miss having these working properly..

Cheers,
Rich

ps. tonight, I decided I'd take a closer look at the boards, and hooked up power without an input, to see if it
behaved any differently than before.
I was amazed to hear no noises...then I realized I hadn't connected the ribbon cable from the input board, to the main board.
When I did that, and powered on, it then made the noises.
Does that mean that "input board" is bad?

Also, I notice that I can tap the enclosure pretty much anywhere, and it will start the noise..

Don't know, but you brought up an interesting foresnics clue.

Tapping the enclosure will create it.

If it was me, I'd start checking solder joints.

Also, I'd clean any connectors with some deoxit and make sure they're well seated.

The fact that it didnt make noise when the ribbon cable was disconnected doesn't point to the input board being bad, just means you heard no noise cause it wasn't connected.

 

[rgouette]

Don't know, but you brought up an interesting foresnics clue.

Tapping the enclosure will create it.

If it was me, I'd start checking solder joints.

Also, I'd clean any connectors with some deoxit and make sure they're well seated.

The fact that it didnt make noise when the ribbon cable was disconnected doesn't point to the input board being bad, just means you heard no noise cause it wasn't connected.

yeah , I started touching up solder joints last night, maybe I should make sure I hit em all.
I wonder if there's a damaged Cap that I just can't see visually..

thanks for the reply..
Rich

 

[RFR]

This is not audio related, but still electrical.

My car would randomly die usually when thouroughly warmed up and it was hot outside. Drove me nuts. Replaced this, replaced that, spent a bunch of money without solving the problem.

Found a youtube video that adressed the issue. The problem was in the main relay board.


What happened was as the car got older and with the heat generated, the solder joints started to fail. As it heated up, the cuircuit expanded and lost contact.

You couldn't visually see it without a magnifying glass, but there were gaps between the solder, the board and the components soldered onto it.

When it got hot the dissimilar expansion rate caused it to not make good contact and the car would die.

It took two hours to get to the assembly, but only 10 minutes of re soldering all the comnections.

After 5 years, she's still fixed.

Moral?

Solder joints can cause all kind of problems.

 

[rgouette]

This is not audio related, but still electrical.

It took two hours to get to the assembly, but only 10 minutes of re soldering all the comnections.

After 5 years, she's still fixed.

Moral?

Solder joints can cause all kind of problems.

roger that...will revisit solder and have buckets of fun

thanks amigo

 

[RFR]

Hey, best of luck to you. I hope you realize that without having them in front of me, I'm just grasping at straws.


I'm hoping that by bumping this thread, someone that actually knows what the hell they're talking about will step in.

 

[rgouette]

Hey, best of luck to you. I hope you realize that without having them in front of me, I'm just grasping at straws.


I'm hoping that by bumping this thread, someone that actually knows what the hell they're talking about will step in.

oh no worries mate, I know we're just doin our best to t-shoot at a distance..

appreciate yer time
R

 

[rgouette]

looks like it was the little board that houses the XLR & 1/4" inputs...
when I disconnected the cable from it to the main board, the problem went away!

 

[RFR]

So the pcb where the inputs are mounted is bad? Any fixes?

Cause you kind of need to have the inputs connected for it all to work.

For replacement parts for krk, check out full compass music.

Edit: it's fullcompass.com