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jimmys69 said:
I upgraded to a Samson S-Phone that just sounded much clearer. It died on me not 30 minutes ago. Is that irony?
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I've been using the Samson S-Phone for about years now maybe 10 (can't remember when I got it)...not had any issue with it to date.
If the whole unit died and not just one of the channels/etc...maybe it's just the power supply..?...but probably less hassle to replace the unit than repair the PS.

I've always powered my gear with a regulated voltage supply, and of course lots of conditioning (and I recently added full balanced power that for the whole studio)...and even before this studio, I was using a voltage regulator since back in 1990 when someone suggested it to protect from power spikes and brown outs, which are as bad for some gear as high voltage swings...and I can't swear that it's made a proven difference other than to take note that I've never really had gear get fried or what have you, (I'm sure I just jinxed myself). :)
 
miroslav said:
I've been using the Samson S-Phone for about years now maybe 10 (can't remember when I got it)...not had any issue with it to date.
If the whole unit died and not just one of the channels/etc...maybe it's just the power supply..?...but probably less hassle to replace the unit than repair the PS.

I've always powered my gear with a regulated voltage supply, and of course lots of conditioning (and I recently added full balanced power that for the whole studio)...and even before this studio, I was using a voltage regulator since back in 1990 when someone suggested it to protect from power spikes and brown outs, which are as bad for some gear as high voltage swings...and I can't swear that it's made a proven difference other than to take note that I've never really had gear get fried or what have you, (I'm sure I just jinxed myself). :)
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The unit just took a shit. Things happen.... Regulated supply and power conditioning here as well.

I'm not about to resolve the reason 'why' by wasting time doing anything other than replacing the needs with a better unit.

The thing went red-line on all channels and made a horrible noise. Everything disconnected and it acts the same.

Free S-Phone to anyone who wants to try to fix it! :)

Pinky swear to release the jinx you placed on yourself! lol! My daughter made me post that man. It just may work! :)

And that was not directed to you 'Pinky'! :)
 
Yeah...I wouldn't wast time repairing it either. They are not that expensive.

Hmmm...everything red-lined...then shit. Sounds like a definite electrical implosion with the unit...of course, if you were blasting that crazy metal and had everything dimed... :D :p
 
miroslav said:
Yeah...I wouldn't wast time repairing it either. They are not that expensive.

Hmmm...everything red-lined...then shit. Sounds like a definite electrical implosion with the unit...of course, if you were blasting that crazy metal and had everything dimed... :D :p
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lol! Naw, it was the white suburban hip-hoppy bastards that likely killed it. Ha!


The unit just took a shit. Unplugged it before a fire starts. No big loss. Gear comes and goes. Not like it was a beloved vintage preamp worth repairing.

Headphone amps are like band-aids. Once the wound is healed you take them off and throw them in the trash right? :)
 
Besides the S-phone....I have 4 of those passive RedCo Little Red Cue boxes...just picked up 3 mint used ones for $100, the original versions that were in the slanted metal box.

Of course, the amps like S-phone are better when you need more cue mix options, and more power, but I tend to use those Red cue boxes more than the S-phone when I need a quick, basic headphone split.
They are without a doubt the best passive headphone boxes...with 4 headphone inputs and level knobs, and you can daisy chain them with the XLR output. though I've never done that, instead I can feed them individually from the S-phone when I need to...but not a regular requirement for my recording situations.
 
Whilst I am a fan of some Begringer gear I would say the S phone will likely meet the OP's "transparent" requirement better? Thomann have it over here at a sniff under a ton.

I see the unit is mains powered but have no idea if the PSU is 50Hz or switch mode. The failure mode DOES sound like PSU but if SMPS, very tricky to fix (in fact I would just build an outboard 50Hz supply)

Mention was made of "balanced" mains supplies ? Not a safe practice here at 230volts and even at 115 make sure the relevant people "know"!

Dave.
 
ecc83 said:
Mention was made of "balanced" mains supplies ? Not a safe practice here at 230volts and even at 115 make sure the relevant people "know"!

Dave.
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Not sure what you mean "not a safe practice"...?

It's not something you jury-rig yourself. :D
You use a purpose-built device that balances the power if one is exists for your power source. Not sure if they make any for 220-230...but they have them here, and they are purpose-built for audio/studio use. Not so good for things like light dimmer packs and certain types of electric motors...but I've got my tape decks running off it, and they work great with their reel motors.

It's not really needed for a primarily computer-based rig with only a few analog/outboard pieces.
In my case...with console, tape decks and a lot of analog racked gear...it certainly makes a difference in how quieter the noise floor is.
 
miroslav said:
Not sure what you mean "not a safe practice"...?

It's not something you jury-rig yourself. :D
You use a purpose-built device that balances the power if one is exists for your power source. Not sure if they make any for 220-230...but they have them here, and they are purpose-built for audio/studio use. Not so good for things like light dimmer packs and certain types of electric motors...but I've got my tape decks running off it, and they work great with their reel motors.

It's not really needed for a primarily computer-based rig with only a few analog/outboard pieces.
In my case...with console, tape decks and a lot of analog racked gear...it certainly makes a difference in how quieter the noise floor is.
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Yes M, the safety issue is a bit deep! Boils down to the fact that mains fuses are always in the live side and neutral is "always" connected to earth/ground (at the point the juice comes into the dwelling in most cases here) . So, an unaware tech opening up a bit of kit with a blown fuse in the hot side could get a lethal shock from the ground referred neutral wires!

I agree that 55V ish to earth is nowhere near as shocking but it is still important for peeps to know.

Any and all mains installations must be done or at least passed fit by a professional. You are correct in saying that balanced mains transformers are rare in Europe. There was an article in SoS about this and a correction had to be posted warning of the danger. Before I was aware I did indeed do quite a search for centre tapped 230V traffs and could not find any!

Dave.
 
ecc83 said:
So, an unaware tech opening up a bit of kit with a blown fuse in the hot side could get a lethal shock from the ground referred neutral wires!
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Still not sure what you are getting at.
"opening up a bit of kit with a blown fuse"....?

You talking about the audio gear or the mains fuse box...?
There won't be any juice back at the mains fuse box on the ground from the balanced power unit.
Also...most audio gear has fuses that are accessible from the outside of the cases, so no need to go digging inside just to change one out.
AFA techs working on audio gear...mmm...if they are true techs, they would be aware (or make themselves aware) of the studio power setup before proceeding with things...and most likely, would not work on a connected piece of gear.

Look...you do realize that balance power is used in other situations, not just audio, but certainly in most larger studio setups where pristine AC is a requirement...?
Again, it's not some jury rigged setup....these are purpose built devices, UL approved...etc..etc. :)

Heck...it's no different than sticking your hands into a guitar amp...you better know what you are doing and what you are touching...but I don't see anyone making a big deal about using/buying guitar amps.

You blokes in the UK and Europe...well...you have your 220-230 to deal with. ;)

Anyway...we kinda got off the OT...and again, I'm not suggesting/promoting that a balanced power setup is needed for any/every audio/studio setup. It's something to consider if you have more extensive analog/outboard gear that could benefit from cleaner AC.
Computers and software apps...not so much...and besides, computers make plenty electrical noise on their own after they are powered up. :D
 
Yes ok it IS OT but it was mentioned and there was a prominent article in SoS by a guy (in the States) singing the undoubted advantages of balanced supplies. The next thing that happened was a counter-article and mention on the forum that the practice did have this safety trap for the unwary. I just want to point this out lest someone consider BS for their studios!

Yes, it must be properly installed and passed. Yes BS is found in other sensitive equipment areas, hospitals are one but a service tech is not likely to open up a piece of kit in the Cat scan room! However, people DO open up gear to check inside if a fuse has blown (take the point about external access but not universal) in semi-"domestic" surroundings.

Bottom line: Balanced power supplies can give very big improvements in hum floors in certain circumstances but they MUST be installed by a professional lekky.

Dave.
 
Since you mentioned it...can you dig up the SoS article?
Seeing how I'm now using a balanced power setup, I would like to read that article too besides what I've read on the actual manufacturer's websites. I like to have as much info about stuff I'm using or doing as possible.
That said...opening gear for me and getting my hands into it has been a regular thing, from my very early days with audio...not to mention that I do have an actual electronic technology degree, but never pursed it as a hands-on craft, so I'm still more of a hacker :p but...I can repair most shit, and I know my way around electronics.

Let's be honest though...most of the electronic gear we use is probably a "danger zone" on some level for the home rec newbs, and even for some guys who've been recording for ages, since not everyone likes to get their hands into the gear or learn about that side of the case.

So on that note, they should probably just stay out of the gear and only play with the knobs and stuff on the outside. :)
 
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That ^ should get you on the track. Yes I agree, most folks should keep TF out! But a fairly well clued amp tech would simply not suspect the neutral side of a switch was 115V above chassis and even if he did not get a shock a slip of the meter probe would result in a big 'king bang! Even for 55V!

All very unlikely scenarios I agree but then electrical safety (like firearms) is built upon layers of many improbably conditions.

Dave.
 
Good read...but it certainly applies to more involved balanced power installations.

My use...and what most small studios might employ would be what the article describes as:

To counter these inherent risks, some manufacturers of commercially-available, self-contained balanced mains supply units incorporate individual current balance ('earth leakage' or GFCI) trips on each balanced mains outlet. These will detect fault conditions and isolate both sides of the mains supply to protect both the equipment and the user, and so this kind of device is safe to use with normal single-fused equipment. Some products provide current-balance trips for a group of outlet sockets, and although less convenient, this arrangement is still intrinsically safe.
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The better self-contained units remove most of the serious dangers described in the article. I'm using a Furman IT-1220, which states the following:

Ground Fault Interrupter (GFCI): The GFCI on the IT-1 220's front panel is a special kind of circuit breaker that detects an imbalance in the current flowing in the two hot legs. The "missing" current is presumed to be flowing through the ground conductor (the round pin on an AC outlet). Ground current often indicates a dangerous partial or full short circuit. If an imbalance is detected, the GFCI trips and cuts off power not only to itself, but to all the IT-1220's outlets. If this occurs, the button on the GFCI marked "R" (Reset) will pop out. To restore operation, correct the fault and push the button in. You may test the proper operation of the GFCI at any time by simulating a ground fault by pushing the button marked "T" (Test). If the GFC1 is working properly, this will cause the "R" button to pop out and cut off power. You can restore operation after a test by pushing the "R" button in.
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That said...I think anyone that has an audio device fail or a fuse go...would be nuts to open it up while it was still plugged into a live circuit...balanced or not. :)
 
RFR said:
This is all very good info, but... did the OP ever find what they were looking for?
:D
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Not in this forum. This >>> Coleman Audio LS3 Line Selector was suggested elsewhere and the OP seemed to think that was what they wanted. Evidently all was wanted was a switch to select where the audio was routed. A lot of money for what it is, but is a passive device and thus transparent and shouldn't affect the quality of the audio.
 
arcaxis said:
Not in this forum. This >>> Coleman Audio LS3 Line Selector was suggested elsewhere and the OP seemed to think that was what they wanted. Evidently all was wanted was a switch to select where the audio was routed. A lot of money for what it is, but is a passive device and thus transparent and shouldn't affect the quality of the audio.
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That's the same price as the headphone amp I listed, and doesn't power a single damn thing. lol Agree - seems like a lot of $$$ for a passive device.
 
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