newb: looking for tips to resolve clipping

G

Growbert

New member
Hey guys

I've been running a guitar/bass direct to my mbox 3. I would love some real clipping resolution tips! :)

The only advice i've gotten so far to reduce levels with my instrument's volume knob. I know I should be able to leave my volume and tone intact/ have aggressive attack on my guitar. any advice would be super appreciated you guys.
 
Guitar up full. Gain knob on the MBOX down to below clipping level. You can up the recorded signal after it's recorded inside the software using gain or automation. My recorded clips are wimpy until I up the gain by a whole wack inside Sonar.
 
darkglass star said:
Hey guys

I've been running a guitar/bass direct to my mbox 3. I would love some real clipping resolution tips! :)

The only advice i've gotten so far to reduce levels with my instrument's volume knob. I know I should be able to leave my volume and tone intact/ have aggressive attack on my guitar. any advice would be super appreciated you guys.
Click to expand...

If you are saying that with the bass at max* and the gain backed off on the M box 3 it is still clipping, the only solution is a high Z attenuator close to the Mb 3's input. Unfortunately nobody seems to make these. Don't know why, there are quite a few wimpy instrument inputs about!

The series combination of 680k and 270k will give about 12dB of attenuation whilst preserving the "magic One Meg" (it ain't!), needs to be on a short, <2feet cable to the AI.

*Don't really understand guitarists resistance to turning down? Especially for recording where a shortish lead can be used. 3 mtrs is not going to suck!
The objection makes even less sense for a bass. Mind you! The headroom on many AIs is barely adequate I agree. Can't say for the Mb3 since even the manual gives sod all speccs' AFAICS.

Dave.
 
ecc83 said:
*Don't really understand guitarists resistance to turning down?
Click to expand...

My understanding is that it stems from the days of prevalent passive circuitry in guitars and the disproportionate loss of higher frequencies when turning down the volume.

With active circuitry, that problem doesn't exist. However, force of habit makes me continue to run all my guitars at max. The advantage of doing this, particularly for recording, is that you remove one level of variability.
 
gecko zzed said:
My understanding is that it stems from the days of prevalent passive circuitry in guitars and the disproportionate loss of higher frequencies when turning down the volume.

With active circuitry, that problem doesn't exist. However, force of habit makes me continue to run all my guitars at max. The advantage of doing this, particularly for recording, is that you remove one level of variability.
Click to expand...

Yes, I was being a bit coy Gekks! You can get a bit of top loss with a long "cappy" cable if you back off a passive guitar's VC but for recording you will likely be on top of the AI! And it makes even less sense for bass.

The trouble lies of course with the low headroom of some AI high Z inputs. I do understand the technical limits imposed by USB bus power (wither USB 3.0?) but some do a decent job and the venerable Fast track pro had a pad!

Dave.
 
That seems odd.

Maybe try a passive direct box like THIS. If that makes no changes then grab an attenuator adapter like THIS.


I am just guessing here as I have had some really hot basses in my time, but never one that clipped with gain low.

Could also be a bad cable or wiring in the bass maybe? I am really just guessing here.
 
Do you have the MINI? Either way, just a quick Google seems to show that you get a 20dB pad by pulling out on the gain knob.

Have you tried that?
 
its not the mini and I do have a 20bB pad but it kills my tone.

Ideas on keeping continuity in tone with the dB pad?
 
darkglass star said:
its not the mini and I do have a 20bB pad but it kills my tone.

Ideas on keeping continuity in tone with the dB pad?
Click to expand...

20 dB pad on interface does not suck tone in any way shape or form. That is only attenuating the input gain to the preamp in your interface. It not like turning down a guitar pot/knob.

It seems you have other things to worry about.


So, if you pull the knob, does your guitar still clip the preamp?
 
We should be clear here. Is the preamp clipping on the MBOX? That should never happen ever.

Where is it that you see clipping?
 
When I pull the pot I don't clip but my volume DROPS. I thought that this it cutting Hz from my signal thus affecting my tone, I think I've been misinformed . So what does a dB pad really doing then?
 
Nope. Just giving less initial gain to the preamp. Nothing to do with frequency response. Use the pad, then adjust for optimal levels to your amp sims (assuming that is what you are using).

Ideally -18dBFS into your DAW as an average. About half way up the full scale. It can peak a bit higher. Just avoid pushing it as it is not necessary.

Turn up you monitors and run your software at the level it likes. Your tone will improve by doing this.
 
Only time you might need the soft limiter IMO, would be for percussion recording. And even then, I wouldn't use it.


You are best keeping levels clean and low enough not to ever clip. You can always add gain later.

The limiter on this device is there for users that do not pay close attention to proper gain staging. If you do it right, you don't need it.
 
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