Yamaha AW1600 Power Issue Guidance

wolf1419

New member
Hello, I'm a DIY guy that gets things fixed if I have some guidance. A used Yamaha aw1600 Digital Multitrack that I own [purchased in this condition for parts or repair ], has a specific startup issue. It takes approx. 4 times pushing ON to get startup, then the machine operates as intended. After software shutdown and power OFF, it will not restart.

Unplugging everything and waiting for voltage of PSU to go to 0.00 (takes 1hr+-) to stabilize. The startup can be repeated with 4+- push of ON.

This is a very repeatable condition, not intermittent, and all connections appear to be intact. No intermittents, "open" pin to ground. Ground to barrel 0.00 ohms. Initial measurements appear fine on aw1600.

External PSU DC Voltage Out = 16.25VDC, no load. Reads 16.25VDC after Shutdown, ( unplugged from AC ), then drops slowly as expected. The PSU is KFD [ KFD AC/DC Adapter Model A45-2-160002500 Energy Efficiency VI ].
The original Yamaha PA-300 PSU's are mostly unavailable and/or costly.

Yamaha are unable to support . I'm hoping to find additional guidance on this Forum. Thanks in Advance, Ron
 
FIXED !! The KFD external AC adapter [advertised as a direct replacement for the Yamaha] is the culprit. My plan worked, purchasing a 2nd machine with original Yamaha PA-300. Now both machines run as intended. The KFD was suspect for the barrel not mating perfectly with the power port. It's probably designed to fit more machines, just not seating properly, and the PA-300 turned right on 1st attempt, and repeated several times. Now I only have 1 correct PSU, but didn't have to do any work inside the AW1600. It turned out wonderful. NOW it's just that darn TOOLS CD that hasn't been rectified yet. This is a testament to the robust build of the AW1600's and the 2005 ish MTR's continue to be useful machines. [D3200's working like a charm as well].
 
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Before I read the solution Wolf I had a 1/2 formed thought that the problem was the power supply.

I would say the "wrong" supply does not quite meet the load needs of the 1600 but repeated "stabs" at the button either eventually charge the caps to just enough to trip the circuits or, you push JUST as mains peaks in the waveform.

Measuring the off load voltage of a supply tells you Jack S! You need to load the supply, if you don't want to mess with it connected to a valuable piece of gear, buy some load resistors of the right value and rating. In fact you can buy several that "work up" to the rating then plot I against V and get a graph which will tell you the supply voltage for any given load within its rating.

Note, many of these line lump supplies can be noisy, both the DC rail and radiated crap. If you wanted a nice DIY project, a toroid in a tin and a linear regulated supply will be both quiet and clean.

As ever, hunt up the doings of Douglas Self.

Dave.
 
Before I read the solution Wolf I had a 1/2 formed thought that the problem was the power supply.

I would say the "wrong" supply does not quite meet the load needs of the 1600 but repeated "stabs" at the button either eventually charge the caps to just enough to trip the circuits or, you push JUST as mains peaks in the waveform.

Measuring the off load voltage of a supply tells you Jack S! You need to load the supply, if you don't want to mess with it connected to a valuable piece of gear, buy some load resistors of the right value and rating. In fact you can buy several that "work up" to the rating then plot I against V and get a graph which will tell you the supply voltage for any given load within its rating.

Note, many of these line lump supplies can be noisy, both the DC rail and radiated crap. If you wanted a nice DIY project, a toroid in a tin and a linear regulated supply will be both quiet and clean.

As ever, hunt up the doings of Douglas Self.

Dave.

HaHa…..your 1/2 formed thought basically fills in the missing dots to what I was experiencing, and had a similar thought that it must charge caps a little hotter before it will supply enough oomph to kick it in. That's exactly how it acts …… it's "almost enough" but must be in a completely discharged state, recharged "quickly" to get over the line [faulty cap in PSU.?]. The plug doesn't mate as neatly as the PA-300, therefore resistance, requiring more current to overcome skight resistance. I'm considering replacing the plug as job#1 and go from there. Thanks for perspective and guidance toward Mr. Self... Ron
 
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