Tascam-244 (DIY): Access, Pinch Roller, Idler Tires

I was actually working on a 246. My idler tires actually looked pretty good, so I didn't do the whole job. But the 246 service manual shows the following picture.

tascam246.png

You'll have to unplug a couple of the wire harnesses and cut the wire ties on the side of the mechanism chassis that holds even more wires to get it lifted up. Then you'll remove the 4 screws that hold the portion with the capstan motor and control motor. I think there is then another two screws that hold the idler motor assembly in place.

I think being patient and methodical from the bottom is a safer choice that taking the top off. At least it is on the 246.
 
That's a great help. Getting the faceplate off a 244 is a pain in the ass the way the Dr Zee site shows it. The 246 is easier, as when you take off all the knobs on the front and and all the screws inside after taking the bottom off, it's just a matter of lifting it off. The VU meters are a part of the face plate so I either just leave them connected or unplug the wires.

This is a safer way to replace the idler tires. BTW, I found some washers at Home Depot that fit my 246 perfectly and work great. I'll post the name and parts # tomorrow.
 
FWIW, I just replaced the idler tires on my 246 a few minutes ago, and I'm not sure I understand what all the fuss is about. Because of this thread, I went in through the bottom, took out the mechanism and disconnected all the wire harnesses so I could set it on its own.

After reading, "Then you'll remove the 4 screws that hold the portion with the capstan motor and control motor," from fucanay's post above and not knowing exactly what was meant by that, I finally actually looked at the idler tires to see what was going on. It was at that point that I realized I should be able to replace the top one without removing anything. And that was true. For the bottom one, though, I needed to remove the top one.

So I just carefully removed the little retaining ring that was hold the top idler tire down with the help of a jeweler's flat head screw driver . After that, it sprung up a bit because of the spring. I pulled it up, with the spring, and then pulled bottom idler tire right up off the shaft.

I replaced the bottom idler tire and then simply reassembled. You can't mess up the reassembly of the bottom and top idler tires (at least on the 246) because they will only fit one way together. The bottom one and top have opposing grooves, so they fit together like a puzzle piece. The hardest part of the whole procedure was putting the retaining back on, but it only took about 3 tries.

The whole process took about 5 minutes. And, of course, my biggest regret was that I could have done the whole thing from the top.

It needs to be said, of course, that taking off the top of the 246 is really easy. You just remove the bottom cover (about 7 or 8 screws or so) and then remove 10 screws (I think) to free the top cover. At that point, you can access the pinch roller from the top as well as the idler tires, using the method I explain above.

Again ... this is for the 246. I've never owned a 244, so I don't know exactly how they differ.

I didn't think to take pictures of it while I had it apart, but, like I said, you really can't screw it up. The bottom and top go together like a puzzle. And of course be careful removing the retaining ring, because you don't want to lose it.

Other than that though, it was a piece of cake.
 

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It's really a matter of preference and if you think you have a steady hand enough to get that tiny c-clip off of the top idler without popping it off into the bowels of the unit or worse, the floor. I've never done it through the bottom either and I've replaced them on several 246's. The 244 is a bit tougher because the face doesn't pop off like it does on the 246. The VU meters have to be detached and jimmied up through the underneath in order to get it completely off.

I'm always worried about losing that tiny c-clip. If that happens where would you even find another one?
 
Level Anything said:
It's really a matter of preference and if you think you have a steady hand enough to get that tiny c-clip off of the top idler without popping it off into the bowels of the unit or worse, the floor. I've never done it through the bottom either and I've replaced them on several 246's. The 244 is a bit tougher because the face doesn't pop off like it does on the 246. The VU meters have to be detached and jimmied up through the underneath in order to get it completely off.

I'm always worried about losing that tiny c-clip. If that happens where would you even find another one?
Click to expand...

Yeah I know what you mean. I thought of that too and made extra sure that I kept a finger on it while trying to remove it. However, before I removed it, I looked online and found a few things that set my mind at ease a bit:

1000pcs/lot Stainless steel 304 2mm E Type Circlips Snap ring washer Retaining ring-in Other Home Improvement from Home Improvement on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

Retaining Rings - External, E-Type?MISUMI?MISUMI USA

Retaining Rings - External, C-Type?MISUMI?MISUMI USA

I figured I'd be able to find something that would work.
 
There is a site out there we used at work called McMaster Carr. If they didn't have it, we didn't need it..... It might have the e-clips.... And anything else you need....
McMaster-Carr
 
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