A Reel Person
It's Too Funky in Here!!!
I've been a long time owner and user of this equipment. As is read commonly here and elsewhere all over the web, there comes a time where problems happen with these vintage machines. I'm not posting this post as comprehensive, but just to kick it off with a couple tips.
Having bought a fair number of units, both as fixers and working units, it has become a new priority to sell some of this equipment. As a general rule, I've been refurbishing these units as I've sold them off, and the buyers have been unanimously pleased. Not to mention the obvious, but I will not sell any device that I'm not sure is functionally sound and reliable enough to provide trouble free performance for many years to come. Many times I've bought seemingly working units, only to end up with eBay clunkers! Not to mention, even a working unit will deteriorate just sitting on the shelf unused, over time, which is inevitable the rubber parts go bad. In the turnaround, the stark reality is I am selling these units in tangibly better condition than when I purchased them. A somewhat sad irony, but I'm happy to give another person a good turn. I have way more integrity than to pass hidden problems or marginal equipment onto others, as some others have done to me.
Tips:
Capstan belt: PRB FRM 11.7, flat rubber belt
Control Belt: PRB SCQ 5.6, square cut belt
TIRES:... have been a real issue lately. I had been previously using PRB ST .599's, which were a bear to stretch into place and didn't fit 100 percent, but were workable. Part of it is they do not fit snugly into the slot of the idler, but will sit in about halfway and present the surface at an angle much like a square cut belt. As odd as that sounds, it works great that way, but I think the bigger hazard is their small size and the force needed to stretch them over the idlers could risk breaking the idlers themselves. NOTE: that in this operation the idler clutch assy was removed entirely from it's mount on the motor assy, and includes removing the smallest c clip one has ever seen, and if it gets away from you could easily be lost in a typical carpet or any other area internal to the unit. In other words, it involves a real biotch of a total teardown. Not to mention, even if you can find these particular tires, they are NOS, obsolete old stock and can cost a few dollars each, plus any delivery. You know darn well this type of thing should cost pennies.
SO>> I've found a fantastic replacement for worn out idler tires. It's a generic "faucet repair kit", consisting of 2 properly sized tires (O-rings) and some other small hardware. I found it at Lowe's hardware store after much searching and comparing sizes. It's:
>> Faucet Repair Kit (#)0347 by BrassCraft Industries, for a cost of $2.61 plus tax.
This kit will refurbish one idler assembly, replacing both tires,... mind you these are O-rings, but they are about identically sized as the original tires, are pliable and easy to install without removing the entire clutch from it's motor mount, hence,... less of a serious teardown, less risk of damage from installation, and that microscopic c-ring,... they don't call them "Jesus Clips" for nothing! When they spring off and fly into oblivion, "Jesus" is the least offensive expletive I'd come up with. Not to mention, such a tiny c-ring, if ever lost you'd be hard pressed to find a replacement. I forgot to mention there is a small spring that could be lost or damaged, as well as the incredibly small c-ring,... all bypassed by these easy to install O rings. I believe the idler tires have been a huge sticking point to common refurbishments, if you go there at all, as these tires are hard to find on a good day, are costly, and for some reason the Tascam sized ones were probably custom jobs for which there is no off the shelf replacement. Tascam doesn't supply replacement tires anymore, etc. It had become a real dilemma, for which this faucet kit is a handy fix! Stay Away From Ebay! I just saved you a lot of time, money and frustration. You're welcome!
Added Info: I read the web a lot on analog, and there's a wealth of posts regarding vintage recorders like the 244 that have problems, and in my mind need a mid level refurbishment to get the transport up to snuff. All this info hopefully helps someone cut to the chase.
NEXT:... On these Portastudios and most similar vintage analog devices, the record/repro levels will drop off noticeably with age. This is another subject I've read much about on the web.
... Back when I had money, several years back,... I purchased from TEAC/Tascam some genuine TEAC (cassette) Test Tapes, for hefty charge, but in retrospect it turned out to be one of the best investments I've ever made! Just to give you an idea:
.... MTX-116, multifrequency full track alignment tape for double speed transports: $114
.... MTX-356, same as above except for single speed transports: $145
>Please don't crucify me if I got those prices reversed, respectively, but to say the least they were costly! Anyhow,... like many other things analog,... they are no longer available. DO NOT go for so-called "cassette alignment tapes" you see on Ebay or other websites. These are homebrew cassettes of dubious merit, and I'll leave it at that.
I THINK: the issue of record/repro alignment is glossed over or omitted entirely in nearly every other dissertation of Portastudio refurbishment, but once you get the transport functioning properly by replacing the rubber, proper Rec/PB levels is of the utmost importance.
I'll admit to doing a "lite" alignment, as I hesitate to touch the azimuth or bias. I could do azimuth even tho it's a PITA. It's my experienced opinion that it's factory set and copasetic if you don't touch it. OTOH, I think tinkering with Bias on any 2 head deck could prove problematic and prohibitive. Keep in mind you're adjusting internal trimmers that if you barely nudge will move the needle noticeably. Having done what I've done several times over, I'm happy with my results:
When I record 0VU on these refurbished recorders, I get 0VU on playback, at some considerable number of hours time tinkering, but it's worth it!
The day I got those TEAC Test Tapes in hand, I felt So Darned POWERFUL!
That's probably odd to hear, but is how I felt as an old analog weekend warrior!
NOTE: I've been told by a seasoned TEAC analog repair tech that you "don't have to touch the dbx" (alignments). I'm happy to go with that, unless the dbx has some noticeable anomalies, and if you have the background and resources,... go for it!
I hope someone will find my tips and comments useful, here and there. It was mostly to emphasize workable belt sizes and the handy replacement tires (o rings) I found, as the info I wanted to pass on. I should mention before closing, that for anything this technical, having the Service Manual is a MUST,... and don't be cheap or hedge, people,... call Tascam Parts and purchase manuals directly from TEAC. (Thank you!)
PS: Re. TIRES: There's nothing more tragic and aggravating than working on an analog masterpiece, then having the takeup roller fail to turn and have the deck eat your tape! Even worse with vintage, legacy, or unreplaceable tapes! A word to the wise,... (is not necessary!)
Sorry, no pics!
Having bought a fair number of units, both as fixers and working units, it has become a new priority to sell some of this equipment. As a general rule, I've been refurbishing these units as I've sold them off, and the buyers have been unanimously pleased. Not to mention the obvious, but I will not sell any device that I'm not sure is functionally sound and reliable enough to provide trouble free performance for many years to come. Many times I've bought seemingly working units, only to end up with eBay clunkers! Not to mention, even a working unit will deteriorate just sitting on the shelf unused, over time, which is inevitable the rubber parts go bad. In the turnaround, the stark reality is I am selling these units in tangibly better condition than when I purchased them. A somewhat sad irony, but I'm happy to give another person a good turn. I have way more integrity than to pass hidden problems or marginal equipment onto others, as some others have done to me.
Tips:
Capstan belt: PRB FRM 11.7, flat rubber belt
Control Belt: PRB SCQ 5.6, square cut belt
TIRES:... have been a real issue lately. I had been previously using PRB ST .599's, which were a bear to stretch into place and didn't fit 100 percent, but were workable. Part of it is they do not fit snugly into the slot of the idler, but will sit in about halfway and present the surface at an angle much like a square cut belt. As odd as that sounds, it works great that way, but I think the bigger hazard is their small size and the force needed to stretch them over the idlers could risk breaking the idlers themselves. NOTE: that in this operation the idler clutch assy was removed entirely from it's mount on the motor assy, and includes removing the smallest c clip one has ever seen, and if it gets away from you could easily be lost in a typical carpet or any other area internal to the unit. In other words, it involves a real biotch of a total teardown. Not to mention, even if you can find these particular tires, they are NOS, obsolete old stock and can cost a few dollars each, plus any delivery. You know darn well this type of thing should cost pennies.
SO>> I've found a fantastic replacement for worn out idler tires. It's a generic "faucet repair kit", consisting of 2 properly sized tires (O-rings) and some other small hardware. I found it at Lowe's hardware store after much searching and comparing sizes. It's:
>> Faucet Repair Kit (#)0347 by BrassCraft Industries, for a cost of $2.61 plus tax.
This kit will refurbish one idler assembly, replacing both tires,... mind you these are O-rings, but they are about identically sized as the original tires, are pliable and easy to install without removing the entire clutch from it's motor mount, hence,... less of a serious teardown, less risk of damage from installation, and that microscopic c-ring,... they don't call them "Jesus Clips" for nothing! When they spring off and fly into oblivion, "Jesus" is the least offensive expletive I'd come up with. Not to mention, such a tiny c-ring, if ever lost you'd be hard pressed to find a replacement. I forgot to mention there is a small spring that could be lost or damaged, as well as the incredibly small c-ring,... all bypassed by these easy to install O rings. I believe the idler tires have been a huge sticking point to common refurbishments, if you go there at all, as these tires are hard to find on a good day, are costly, and for some reason the Tascam sized ones were probably custom jobs for which there is no off the shelf replacement. Tascam doesn't supply replacement tires anymore, etc. It had become a real dilemma, for which this faucet kit is a handy fix! Stay Away From Ebay! I just saved you a lot of time, money and frustration. You're welcome!
Added Info: I read the web a lot on analog, and there's a wealth of posts regarding vintage recorders like the 244 that have problems, and in my mind need a mid level refurbishment to get the transport up to snuff. All this info hopefully helps someone cut to the chase.
NEXT:... On these Portastudios and most similar vintage analog devices, the record/repro levels will drop off noticeably with age. This is another subject I've read much about on the web.
... Back when I had money, several years back,... I purchased from TEAC/Tascam some genuine TEAC (cassette) Test Tapes, for hefty charge, but in retrospect it turned out to be one of the best investments I've ever made! Just to give you an idea:
.... MTX-116, multifrequency full track alignment tape for double speed transports: $114
.... MTX-356, same as above except for single speed transports: $145
>Please don't crucify me if I got those prices reversed, respectively, but to say the least they were costly! Anyhow,... like many other things analog,... they are no longer available. DO NOT go for so-called "cassette alignment tapes" you see on Ebay or other websites. These are homebrew cassettes of dubious merit, and I'll leave it at that.
I THINK: the issue of record/repro alignment is glossed over or omitted entirely in nearly every other dissertation of Portastudio refurbishment, but once you get the transport functioning properly by replacing the rubber, proper Rec/PB levels is of the utmost importance.
I'll admit to doing a "lite" alignment, as I hesitate to touch the azimuth or bias. I could do azimuth even tho it's a PITA. It's my experienced opinion that it's factory set and copasetic if you don't touch it. OTOH, I think tinkering with Bias on any 2 head deck could prove problematic and prohibitive. Keep in mind you're adjusting internal trimmers that if you barely nudge will move the needle noticeably. Having done what I've done several times over, I'm happy with my results:
When I record 0VU on these refurbished recorders, I get 0VU on playback, at some considerable number of hours time tinkering, but it's worth it!
The day I got those TEAC Test Tapes in hand, I felt So Darned POWERFUL!
That's probably odd to hear, but is how I felt as an old analog weekend warrior!
NOTE: I've been told by a seasoned TEAC analog repair tech that you "don't have to touch the dbx" (alignments). I'm happy to go with that, unless the dbx has some noticeable anomalies, and if you have the background and resources,... go for it!
I hope someone will find my tips and comments useful, here and there. It was mostly to emphasize workable belt sizes and the handy replacement tires (o rings) I found, as the info I wanted to pass on. I should mention before closing, that for anything this technical, having the Service Manual is a MUST,... and don't be cheap or hedge, people,... call Tascam Parts and purchase manuals directly from TEAC. (Thank you!)
PS: Re. TIRES: There's nothing more tragic and aggravating than working on an analog masterpiece, then having the takeup roller fail to turn and have the deck eat your tape! Even worse with vintage, legacy, or unreplaceable tapes! A word to the wise,... (is not necessary!)
Sorry, no pics!
Last edited:
I used the tire looking ones rather than the O-rings.