Looking for a tascam msr24s power supply cable

IronWine

Member
hey
i got a chance to grab this old contreversial machine for 70 $ , no money!
it seems real clean. but no way to test it, the cable between the power supply unit to the machine is missing.
i researched a bit and it seems like the power unit itself provides different voltages to different parts of the machine:

" it's providing +12 and -12v lines for the audio cards (apparently two circuits, for the amps and bias circuits...?), 24v for the capstan, 15v for the reel motors (?), 12v for the solenoids, and a 5v line for the logic."

ne
not sure how accurate this quote is.

cable jack photo is attached. also i was able to find a photo of the cable itself: http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/MmwAAOSw-vlVkW2K/s-l1600.jpg

so what about the actual cable? would that be possible to get a universal one, or maybe ask an electrician to built one. is it as complex as the power supply unit it self?
 

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The description of the different power rails sounds right.

You will not find a "universal" cable for that application. You will need to get a copy of the service manual in order to get a schematic for the cable. It may not be straight pin-to-pin connection...and hopefully the service manual will include some specification for the cable itself...how many conductors, shielded or unshielded, the wire gauge (size). You'll need all of this info including the connector type if you're going to have somebody build it. It's unfortunate somebody was careless and lost the cable...never a good sign.
 
It looks like the connector is a 50-pin DSUB connector which is helpful as that is readily available.

Something like this may work: 50-Pin (DB50) Deluxe D-Sub Cable - Copper Shielded - Male / Female

But, again, you have to verify if all the conductors are "straight" (pin-to-pin), or if there are some that cross-over, and there may possibly be other components in the cable...diodes, resistors, etc. and the cable specifications need to be known and met as well.
 
Apparently the story is thatsomeone fled the country , and handed it over to his mate, the seller. who knows nothing about this machine. sounds like it coul'd have easily been lost during these hasty moments. LOL

at least a machine with a romantic story..

well, for 70$ i can't really say no.

i do hope that the service manual will have schemes of the cable..not to optimistic about it tho

will update..
 
will check on that cable too..thanks for the link!
I better verify a few things with an electrician before i give it a go..a wrong cable is a good way to ruin it
 
A wrong cable could destroy it.

If you have the service manual with it there will be a schematic for the cable and likely specifications for the cable itself.
 
I don't have it at the moment. but this things exists somwhere online, so i gonna give a good search at the weekend !
 
As far as I can see from the schematics, the pins appear to be 1:1 mapping.

1.+12v(A)
2. G(A)
3. G(A)
4. -12V(A)


7. +12v(B)
8. G(B)
9. G(B)
10. -12V(B)


13. +5v
14. G(+5v)
15. G(+5v)
16. G(+5v)

18. +12v
19. G(+12v)


22. +24v/+12v
23. G(+24v/+12v)




28. +5v
29. (NC)
30. (NC)


33. SHIELD (CHASSIS GND)
34. +12v
35. G(+12v)

37. +11v


40. +15v
41. G(+15v)
42. AC
43. AC
44. PLAY FLASH


47. +24V
48. G(+24v)
 
So that's interesting...the schematic only indicates 48 pins, but I'm counting 50 from the pic the OP posted. So either it's 50 pins and pins 49 and 50 are not connected and just not shown, or I mis-counted. Anyway, double check the number of pins on the unit itself, and I agree it's a 1:1 pin assignment, the cable should be shielded and the shield should be connected to pin 33 (I would suggest only at the machine end). jpmorris, is there a note on the schematic or maybe on the exploded parts view or parts list regarding the wire gauge of the cable conductors? If not I would recommend nothing smaller than 22AWG.
 
I can't see anything about the wire gauge, unfortunately. Nothing printed on the cable of mine, either.
Regarding the physical allocation of the pins, the back of the deck itself looks like this:

msr24_psu_port.jpg

EDIT: The numbers at the end of each row being 17, 33 and 50.
 
There it is:


















he gave me also a TASCAM DA-30, old noise gate by bheringer and two cassette decks. those were in his garden during the last rainfall..man some people just don't have respect for these gems!
at least the msr24s was in his house.. i was also given one ampex 456 and a quantegy 499 tapes :)

anyway it's not in the best shape. heads looks messy but intact . didn't had the chance to open it yet. looks dusty as hell. what can i say for 70$! maybe it'll be a nice furniture.

ne i'm kidin'...gonna take to a tech when i find the time. but it might be a good indication if it turns on and that's why im keen on solving this cable issue before.

so from what i see the jack on the tape itself is more complex..a combination of pins and pins holes. any idea about that? what about taking that 50 pins cable and try to figure my way ? maybe dismantle one side and rengineer it?

reckon it'll be a 300$ work easy...even more if i won't be able to turn it on.

edit: man i hate my phone's camera..gonna try and take some better photos late on. any important parts i sholu'd take good picture of that will help us determine it's condition?
 
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Your pictures are fine.

Looks like normal wear. The R/P has a minor trapezoidal wear pattern which is odd because the zenith is fixed on that machine.

Regarding the pins/holes on the power sockets, you don't need to worry about that...nothing special needed with the connectors on your cable. The pins are the ones that are actually used, what looks like holes are just vacant pin sites because they aren't used...Teac didn't populate what they didn't need to populate in the power socket housing which is typical, depending on the connector type.

Based on the info you and jpmorris have posted, I think you should get that $55 cable I posted a link to or something similar if you can find one cheaper to you. You want to look for a 50-pin DSUB cable, male connector on one end, female on the other, and it needs to be shielded. Once you get it you'll need to find a way to bond the cable shield to pin 33 at the tape machine end of the cable.
 
Well, it looks grubby, but I can't see anything obviously wrong with it. I suspect the proof of the pudding will be in the Dolby cards.
 
well i have contacted Amphenol and waitin' for an answer regarding shipping the cable outside the US. A local shop iv'e checked pricing the cable at 110$ (1 meter!). how ridiculous. if anyone got manuals for it i'll be glad to get it:) don't mind paying - iv'e checked StereoManuals and other websites and no trace for MSR24 manuals.

thanks for the meanwhile!
 
A new problem has merged. Amphenol say their cables are molded and glued and cannot be opened for rewiring. Maybe they do custom orders but im waitin for an answer about that.
Any other options you might think of? Lol that would be frusrating to see this unit grounded because of a cable haha

edit: iv'e asked them what does it mean that "Cables can be easily cut in half and custom terminated for prototyping" as they write in their webite and if they do custom cable..

they respond: "No, it means you can cut the cable in half to reveal the wires for direct wire attachment for your application. You would be cutting the cable after receiving"

i'm clueless :rolleyes:
 
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They're saying that you are free to modify the cable.....after paying for it and receiving it of course. :D

Probably voids any warranty.
 
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