How to modify a console
- Thread starter walters
- Start date
The Ghost of FM
Banned
A sledgehammer is an absolute must.
Blue Bear Sound
New member
Before soldering any component, first apply lighter fluid to the entire area, then ignite it using a small hand-held blow torch (or lighter if you don't have a blow-torch).... this warms the components to the right temperature in preparation for the heat of the soldering iron.
vestast
Gassy Member
Failing that you could purchase this product:
http://www.altmann.haan.de/tubeolator/default.htm
I mean look at these features!
"transforms transistor sound into tube sound
transforms cold and harsh sound into warm emotional sound
attenuates odd, especially third overtones "
http://www.altmann.haan.de/tubeolator/default.htm
I mean look at these features!
"transforms transistor sound into tube sound
transforms cold and harsh sound into warm emotional sound
attenuates odd, especially third overtones "
evm1024
New member
a plan
I would start off with a plan before picking up that soldering iron. Then in general you would want to replace the resistors in the signal path with metal film resistors. The resistors in the feedback loop of opamps and the input resistor are first to be replaces. Ditto any caps in the signal path and in filters.
Opamp upgrades are very much plug and play. Go moderate here. So any of the nje4558 nje4559 nje4560 tl072 could be replaced with opa2132 or opa2227.
But a schematic and a plan are the first steps.
Regards,
walters said:
I would start off with a plan before picking up that soldering iron. Then in general you would want to replace the resistors in the signal path with metal film resistors. The resistors in the feedback loop of opamps and the input resistor are first to be replaces. Ditto any caps in the signal path and in filters.
Opamp upgrades are very much plug and play. Go moderate here. So any of the nje4558 nje4559 nje4560 tl072 could be replaced with opa2132 or opa2227.
But a schematic and a plan are the first steps.
Regards,
timboZ
New member
walters said:
The ModChipStore.com MOD CHIPS are electronic chips that are added to the your console - modifying it to boos up all EQ's depending on the console. It allows you change the sweep. During the Boot sequence your console checks the Boot Information of the mod chip. This information is missing on Backups. Import EQ's and sweeps. The Mod Chip injects the correct boot information. The chipkits include Full Color Online Wiring Diagrams, Installation Guide, Wires and Solder!
The intended purpose of this chip is to allow you to use your console to adjust any sound that you legally own, as is allowed by law. We accept no responsibility for the use of this device. Using the modchip to modify your console will void your warranty.
Blue Bear Sound
New member
I can't beleive someone gave skippy a serious answer!evm1024 said:
evm1024 - you do know that skippy here (aka, "walters"), is just the clueless fuckwit alter-ego of an actual audio engineer posting for shits 'n giggles, don't you?
evm1024
New member
did not know....
Had no Idea... But I do tend to take all people as reasonable and serious. Some consider this a character flaw.
thanks for the heads up...
But also, at some point someone will search for a thread like this and actually want a real answer.
Regards
Blue Bear Sound said:I can't beleive someone gave skippy a serious answer!
evm1024 - you do know that skippy here (aka, "walters"), is just the clueless fuckwit alter-ego of an actual audio engineer posting for shits 'n giggles, don't you?
Had no Idea... But I do tend to take all people as reasonable and serious. Some consider this a character flaw.
thanks for the heads up...
But also, at some point someone will search for a thread like this and actually want a real answer.
Regards
....."Which resistors or capacitors should i change or do to my preamps in my console?".....
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There's an effective mod for reducing signal path noise in consoles that you can do at home Walters. No parts needed. Just a pair of wire clippers. The mod is similar to the way one can often eliminate noise and ground loops in 3-conductor line cables by cutting the shield at one end.
What you do is open your console and note where all existing capacitors and resistors currently are on the various circuit cards. Cut one end of each and every resistor/capacitor. Just snip one of the connector points with the wire clippers. If your console is based on a series of motherboards that are wired together, you can also cut one of the wires between motherboards/circuit cards (it won't matter which one).
Another tip for better mixing is to lower the console height. If it's currently on a pedestal or a table, it's well known in the professional audio world that the height of the console can interfere with the useful generation of standing knee-waves. Un-useful sound waves are created "under" the console in this scenario ..meaning that your mixes aren't as good as they could be if the console wasn't sitting on a pedestal/table.
What you do to eliminate this condition is to lower the console. One easy way is to install 4 casters on the bottom of your console. The little ones like used on the bottom of office chairs etc will do. Then take your console off it's table/pedestal and set it on the floor (it took four of us to do this with the mixers here). This will lower your mixer to almost floor level where waves can not form underneath.
----------------------------------------------
There's an effective mod for reducing signal path noise in consoles that you can do at home Walters. No parts needed. Just a pair of wire clippers. The mod is similar to the way one can often eliminate noise and ground loops in 3-conductor line cables by cutting the shield at one end.
What you do is open your console and note where all existing capacitors and resistors currently are on the various circuit cards. Cut one end of each and every resistor/capacitor. Just snip one of the connector points with the wire clippers. If your console is based on a series of motherboards that are wired together, you can also cut one of the wires between motherboards/circuit cards (it won't matter which one).
Another tip for better mixing is to lower the console height. If it's currently on a pedestal or a table, it's well known in the professional audio world that the height of the console can interfere with the useful generation of standing knee-waves. Un-useful sound waves are created "under" the console in this scenario ..meaning that your mixes aren't as good as they could be if the console wasn't sitting on a pedestal/table.
What you do to eliminate this condition is to lower the console. One easy way is to install 4 casters on the bottom of your console. The little ones like used on the bottom of office chairs etc will do. Then take your console off it's table/pedestal and set it on the floor (it took four of us to do this with the mixers here). This will lower your mixer to almost floor level where waves can not form underneath.
evm1024
New member
another mod
There is another mod that comes to mind. What you do is replace all of the pnp transistors with the matched npn and do the same for the npn to pnp. then you swap the supply voltages plus for minus. The opamps should be replaces with the National semi "Polish" opamp. It was in their catalog a few dozen years ago (no lie) but may be hard to find.
On the passive component side you should replace all the caps with resistors and all the resistors with caps using the formula:
uF= 1/r*(v^2+i^2)^-1
Then if that does not get the noise level down to what you want you could take all the inductors and chand the rotation of the coils. Left hand becomes right hand and right left. Inductors are circulary polarized but this is more noticable at frequencies above 100 MHz. Anyway matching polarization is worth 3 dB.
That should do it.
There is another mod that comes to mind. What you do is replace all of the pnp transistors with the matched npn and do the same for the npn to pnp. then you swap the supply voltages plus for minus. The opamps should be replaces with the National semi "Polish" opamp. It was in their catalog a few dozen years ago (no lie) but may be hard to find.
On the passive component side you should replace all the caps with resistors and all the resistors with caps using the formula:
uF= 1/r*(v^2+i^2)^-1
Then if that does not get the noise level down to what you want you could take all the inductors and chand the rotation of the coils. Left hand becomes right hand and right left. Inductors are circulary polarized but this is more noticable at frequencies above 100 MHz. Anyway matching polarization is worth 3 dB.
That should do it.
skippy
New member
Blue Bear Sound said:I can't beleive someone gave skippy a serious answer!
evm1024 - you do know that skippy here (aka, "walters"), is just the clueless fuckwit alter-ego of an actual audio engineer posting for shits 'n giggles, don't you?
Nope, it ain't me- I very seldom come around here any more, because the place is too hard on my blood pressure. Somebody else, maybe, but not me. I don't have time for those sorts of games...
Blue Bear Sound
New member
HEY Skip - long time no see! I know it's not you, Skippy (capital S) -- "skippy" (lower-case S) is my generic nickname for some of the more clueless people I encounter on the web -- it started on another site....skippy said:
You haven't been here in so long - I'd forgotten you used that as your nick -- no disrespect intended to you at all, old friend!
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......."Won't this increase "floor noise"?...........
I don't happen to believe that and I've never seen the numbers that support an increase. Ah, but that's just part of the never-ending forum debates about "floor noise" vs "standing knee-waves". I suppose the best compromise is to track with your console on it's pedestal and then move it down to the floor on it's little wheels when you're ready to mix. I know some pro studios that do this with their ssl 9000s.
I don't happen to believe that and I've never seen the numbers that support an increase. Ah, but that's just part of the never-ending forum debates about "floor noise" vs "standing knee-waves". I suppose the best compromise is to track with your console on it's pedestal and then move it down to the floor on it's little wheels when you're ready to mix. I know some pro studios that do this with their ssl 9000s.