cjacek
Analogue Enthusiast
Of course we're cool...
***Cool***
Of course we're cool...
I was just wondering how those faders actually open up. Can you keep the connections while you open them? My soldering skills are almost non-existent, and I don't want to screw anything up that I can't fix.
Also, everything in the mixer was actually quite clean, and the faders look like they are in great condition - at least from what I can see without opening one up. A.
Now, have you watched Cory's video? The only difference is that you work on opening it up while the fader is still wired to the mixer. Just hold it so that you don't pull anything and try prying open those little tabs and take the element out (as per Cory's video).
Sorry, I don't think my post/picture made it clear... I attached another picture just to make sure (sorry the resolution isn't the greatest). I have these kind of faders (the upgrade, I believe - not the "low profile" version) and am not exactly sure how to get them apart... I was asking because I saw that Cory had a picture of it intact and then apart - just wondering how he went from point A to point B.
I did some research on that (the conductive plastic) and you don't wanna use anything other than water and / or mild soap dilute with water. Read this: http://www.coopersound.com/Application/cleanpg.htm
This, of course applies, if your fader is of the conductive plastic and not carbon. BTW, are your faders working and passing audio well or..? Refresh my memory.
... so let me get this straight: the conductive plastic elements and wires are supposed to be completely dry? I guess someone said that earlier, but I didn't really understand at the time. So I should only wash off the track of the fader (with a cotton q-tip) - not the rest of it? Or is that wrong?
Oh, and the faders are passing audio, but all of the faders are real scratchy (to the point where I can't move them at all when recording). Kind of a bummer, but the big thing that I am worried about is that the levels on my board are all really low...
Sorry, I don't think my post/picture made it clear... I attached another picture just to make sure (sorry the resolution isn't the greatest). I have these kind of faders (the upgrade, I believe - not the "low profile" version) and am not exactly sure how to get them apart... I was asking because I saw that Cory had a picture of it intact and then apart - just wondering how he went from point A to point B.
Ignatius, sory for the confusion. I DIDN'T go from point A to point B...the picture of the fader intact and the picture of the fader opened up are different models of faders from two different mixers...I believe they are both ALPS faders but I don't know how your faders open up. I will know at some point because I want to learn and those are the same kind of faders in my Soundtracs desk but I don't know at this point.
Daniel, nice going on getting your fader opened up.
Looks NASTY in there...I'm sure even a basic cleaning would bring that thing back to life.
I had the fader out I tried to get it apart (it looks like there are four tabs grouped into two on each side that might have something to do with it, but I don't know), but I lost the "star"-shaped washer inside the mixer and spent the next ten minutes looking for it.
Anyway, if you do figure out how to open it, let me know. Otherwise, I will probably try again in the next couple of days, but I really don't want to break one because I don't any extra
I'm not sure as to the reason for hard-wired or plugin...the hard-wired would ensure that no future oxidation causes trouble...My Soundtracs faders are all hard wired, so I wouldn't say it isn necessarily a production corner cut...I think there may be some theory behind best practice which may have changed from the time of the M-300 series being designed and the 388, or it may have just been the direction of two different project managers or design engineers.
So are you saying that the wire broke off from the solder lug on the element?
That's a pretty easy repair if that's the case.
It happens.